xntryk1

Thank you! I can find and feel the bottom bolt from above (without seeing it). So I should be able to get some kind of socket setup down there. I'll probably go with a wire backup (to lower/raise it) in case I lose that game of Tetris.

'95 Legacy L wagon. There's all kinds of hoses over the starter (heater, a/c, etc.). It turns into a real pain if I have to disconnect all of those. But there does seem to be enough space below. I'm thinking maybe hook some kind of wire to the starter so that I can lower it down slowly and then pull it back up the same way...

Alright, I think I've talked myself into replacing just the solenoid contacts, instead of the entire starter. I can pick those up - with a plunger - for under $10 on eBay. It's not that complicated, I guess. And I have to pull the starter either way. Now my big concern is, can I replace the starter from the top? I don't have ramps or jack stands and I try to avoid climbing under cars that are only held up by jacks. Getting it out doesn't look too difficult (famous last words). It looks like there's enough room to lower the starter down after removing the 2 bolts. Then I could simply reach under there and grab it. But putting it back in could be a problem, though...

I'm just leery of it, because there's too many little areas where I could screw up something. Insert a washer in the wrong order or something. K.I.S.S. usually works better for me. And with any luck, maybe I could get a cheap used starter that doesn't have 215K on it...

Dang. I was afraid somebody was going tell me that. Yeah, I've looked at a few threads and videos about that replacing the contacts thing. Simple enough, I suppose. But still a lot more complicated than just buying another (used) starter and slapping that in there. I can pick up used starters for under $25 on eBay (total price, including shipping).

Here's the short version. At 215K, I'm pretty sure the starter solenoid contacts and plunger are shot. I just need some kind of emergency fix, until I've got the time and $$ to replace the starter. I'm getting real tired of having to push the car to bump start it. Way too many completely flat parking lots in my area. When you say "the battery cable on the starter", you're talking about the little spade on the solenoid that has a plug attached to it - right? Not the bigger one that's bolted down.

OK. See? That tells you how much I know. Not much. And since my old "remote starter" doesn't seem to have wires long enough to connect to both the starter and battery, would just a "jumper wire" work (as described above)?

Found this advice somewhere online: "...get a jumper wire long enough to reach the small terminal on the starter and tap the the battery positive terminal with the other end - did the starter crank the engine over? This is the only wire we need you don't even have to put key in the ignition switch it'll crank the engine over if the battery is good." Is that something that might work? I just don't know enough and I don't make things worse by shorting something out.

Thanks. OK, now I'm not seeing a way to connect one of the alligator clips to that negative spade on the solenoid - at least not while the plug is connected to it. Can I connect to ANY grounded surface? Or does it have to be that one on the solenoid?

Hmmm... on the old "remote starter" that I've got, the wires don't seem long enough to connect to both the battery and the ground on the solenoid. I'm guessing there's probably a good reason that I should NOT try to clip at the positive connection on the starter? And I don't mind codes. I can clear those.

Thank you. I'd appreciate that.

Yeah, if I knew what I was doing, I'm sure it would be that easy. But I don't.

Time for another one of my silly questions. I won't bore you with an irrelevant explanation of WHY I need to do this. Suffice it say it's because I'm too broke at the moment to do anything else. What I'm hoping someone can tell me is exactly how/where to connect one of those cheapie remote starter switches (2 alligator clips connected to a button) under the hood, so I can start the car and get it running from there. I've never used one of those switches and I don't want to risk shorting anything out. This would be used on my 1995 5-speed Legacy L wagon. Any guidance greatly appreciated as always.

Funny addendum to the story: After pushing the plug wire more firmly into the coil pack, the car was definitely running better. But it was still missing now and then. So this morning, I decided to investigate further. I pulled the suspect plug wire from the coil pack - and that end of it just crumbled! Half of the metal terminal and about one inch of wire was completely toasted from arcing for so long. Naturally, I decided to do this BEFORE I'd actually bought any new plug wires. And naturally I couldn't find ANY of the old plug wires (from other cars) that I'd saved for just such an emergency. So I had to chop off that burnt part and luckily there was enough left of the metal terminal to crimp the wire down and still have a makeshift connection. Amazingly, that was good enough to get me to the parts store (for new wires). Hey, what can I say. I'm not a mechanic. I just pretend to be one when I have no other choice.

And sure enough, a slightly loose plug wire at the coil pack appears to have been the problem. Pushed it in completely and the car's back to running without missing (albeit still clicking). Oh well, I'm sure it didn't hurt to replace the plugs and fuel filter. I'll probably still do the plugs wires, too. Thanks again for all the great input!

Yeah, I noticed that about the plug wires, when I was changing the plugs. It's not real easy to make sure they're firmly seated. I'll definitely double-check that, too. Thanks!

Thanks, 3Pin! That's the plan, first chance I get. I'm just hoping it's not that tapping valve and I go through all these other motions for nothing. If it was the valve, would there be any other symptoms beside the intermittent miss? The car's not spewing smoke or anything...

Ran out of time to play with it, today. But will do all that first chance I get. Thanks, again.

Ah, OK. I never noticed that before (CEL coming on when plugged into the OBD). I'll swap the wire and report back. Thanks!

Well, that was weird. Went out to check for codes. Plugged the scanner in, started the car and it showed one code P0303 Pending (Cylinder 3 misfire?). But the strange thing was, while checking the code, the CEL came on (even though it hadn't been on before)! Cleared the code, which also turned off the CEL. Let the car idle for a while and the CEL didn't come back on. While it was idling, I was paying attention to the misses. Engine would run smooth for a few seconds, then miss. Smooth again for a while, miss a couple times. And so on and on. It wasn't like a steady miss every couple seconds. Very intermittent.

It does it both cold and hot. And there's no CEL. But I'll check for codes, anyway. Thanks, everybody!

Just started out of the blue a few weeks ago (I hadn't done anything to the car). Skips a beat now and then when idling and really misses when accelerating. Not noticeable when just cruising along. Car has always had a slightly tapping valve for as along as I've had it (a couple years). And I may be just imagining things, but that tapping does seem to be a little louder, now. Replaced the plugs and fuel filter - no improvement. Next, I'm thinking I should replace the plug wires, air filter and PCV valve. But I get the strange feeling that won't help, either. Possible vacuum leak? How would I check for that? Fuel pump going bad? Would those symptoms match that? What other cheap things should I check and/or replace? Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks.

Ah! Duh! Yes, mine does have a manual transmission. Thanks.

What's an "MT MODEL"? Would that apply to my '95 Legacy L?

I'm starting to think there is NO WAY to remove that switch - short of dismantling the entire car! Which probably explains why I see SO many threads about people doing mods like this one: http://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?10513-DIY-Neutral-safety-switch-disable(5-speeds-trans)