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bratbro

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Posts posted by bratbro

  1. you should be able to start any old carby engine without a fuel pump - so long as fuel in the carby bowl is at the correct level. It should be able to start, run and accelerate for a small time before fuel runs through and depletes. IF it was efi, can still start without the pump operating, so long as the line pressure remains from last operating moment, and then as pressure drops off engine will falter and cut out.

     

    When you say in first post that engine would not stop when switched off - you don't say how many revs it was idling at - incorrect speed , like info, can produce bum steers

     

    Before with a broken choke it would idle at 100rpm. Put manual choke in now it sits at 2k rmp and jumps down to 1k rpm after warming up and I put it on half choke. Suggestions or is this normal rpm?

  2. Quick update: fixed the exposed wires. Replaced the broken electric choke with manual choke. Put on a clear fuel line to carb to see if I lose fuel and to see if the pump was lacking pressure by sight.

    So this morning I started the brat. When I cranked it I seen the fuel go to tge carb very quickly and stayed thereso I assume there's no leak. But with the choke closed it idel at 2k rmp. Is that normal? As it warms up I can half choke and it'll drop to 1k rpm. I would have let it run but the exhaust pipe isn't connected so the smoke in the garage was getting dangerous. So I think I'll just push it out tonight and start it.

    Also if the pump isn't running would the fuel from the line in just drain? Before when I took it off it was dry not even a drip unless we had it just running. Thanks in advance!

  3. I would love to keep it stock. So I started to follow the wires back again from the regulator to tge fuse box then from there to the pump. I found at least 7 wires fully exposed and touching one another. Going to pick up wire today and patch it up. Keeping my fingers crossed this is the reason the pump won't stay on. And thanks for all the info guys n gals really helpful!!!

  4. when i read your biopsy- this is exactly what came to mind. when your car floods itself at start-up, it's probably like my brat on a manual choke where you have to push the gas down for a second before you turn the key to set the choke.. if you're doing this, and your problem remains, i've had way similar problems on honda motorcycles- which are basicly scale models as far as choke goes. I have no idea where the choke settings on my brat are, i could look them up if anyone else agrees w/ my idea, but i think you hit the nail on the head if i had to guess.

     

    The 81 brat ea81 I'm working on has the choke on the side on the carb with a cover on it. The cover has marks for setting the timing but it all operating off a thermostat spring that's in the housing. Mine is busted so I'll be putting a manual choke in after I finish other stuff on the car. I'll try to remember to take pictures.

  5. I'm picking up the parts tonight, and I'll be putting it in either tonight or tomorrow night.

     

    It'll be nice to have a properly-running car again, and no more cold-weather headaches.

     

    It'll also be nice to have reasonable fuel ecenomy again. I'm only getting about 12-14mpg right now in cold weather, which is only a little better than my chevy with a 400SB.

     

    How did it turn out? I need to put one in a 81 brat. The more info I can get the better. Thanks

  6. I'm brat69 brother and I'm trying to finish her up for him. Right now I'm stuck on why the gas pump is not staying on when the car is running. There's no relay I can find. The voltage regulator works. And the lines are not clogged. So I'm thinking about running a hot from the battery to the pump with a toggle switch to turn on/off. I would love to keep it factory. But has anyone Tryed this and anything else I should check before doing this?

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