eatmorepossum

You are probably right. The driver side tail light was full of water. I guess i'll use that roof sealant in a caulking tube around the tail light and reseat it. Edit: ended up getting some of this Wattstar Butyl Rope

Hello all, I have deleted the roof rack trim on this car and filled the holes with roofing sealant. I'm still getting quite a bit of water in the hatch. When i pick up the trunk carpet it smells musty and gets wet in the upper left corner. I see water on top of the vinyl mat. It rained hard last night. Here are some pictures. I keep blowing fuses for the horn, the dome light, the cigarette lighter & the shift lock. I have a rear left tail light on order because it seems to have a lot of condensation in it. Any other ideas??

The shop says they have one on the way. Never mind & thanks.

The original harness was thinned improperly. The brat is at shop #3. the ea81t harness is what they told me they were looking for.

Working on a ej22t swap. Does anyone know where I can source a harness? 1985 Brat with a 1994 legacy SS touring wagon engine. Thanks - cj

Thanks, I figured this out when i thought about it. I took this photo today to answer the question you posed. It looks close to the rim & tire. I guess a spacer would fix things? I saw an article that said try putting washers on to determine how much space is needed. I may just sell the wheels and get a different set...

Dernit.

Here is the link to the wheels. They are Offset +40.00mm. Thinking of trying a 5mm spacer. The lugs are properly seated and torqued now. Do you think this will require longer studs?

Well Dagnabbit, I bought some wheels of craigslist for my 96 Impreza Outback Sport. I knew they were a bit big (225/50/R16) but hoped for the best and well you know where this is going. I'm already in this a bit deeper than I'd prefer and thus I'm in dutch with the wife. What are my options to make these wheels stop rubbing on the rear wheel strut towers when i corner and hit minor bumps? Spacers? Forester struts? Lift kit? Here is what wheel-size.com says is supposed to fit my car: 2.2i 144hp 205/55R15 6.5Jx15 ET55 5x100 M12 x 1.25 56.1 205/50R16 7Jx16 ET51 5x100 M12 x 1.25 56.1 225/45R16 7.5Jx16 ET48 5x100 M12 x 1.25 56.1 The wheels I bought were 225/50/R16 Photos of the rub

As a fellow 96 outback sport owner, I'd love to see a photo of your lift!

Hello, I have a BRAT with a 1994 SS turbo Wagon Engine Swap and a 5mt transmission. I am looking for part numbers and info to obtain these two parts: 1. Turbo Pressure Sensor with pigtail connector 2. Wastegate solenoid with pigtail connector I am also looking for a driveshaft. rock auto has NOS for $345. Thanks for any info you can provide on part numbers, correct names or where to find.

I imported this project from Washington State. More photos here: http://tinyurl.com/bluebrat I wish you still lived here so you could help me finish this bad boy!

This is encouraging news! So glad i dont have to say good bye because of draconian red tape! I should've posted here a long time ago!

Hello folks, I'm in a tight spot with the 1996. I am the first owner and it's my daily. It has only 140k miles. I love the car but this may be the end of it. I can't pass NC inspection and therefore I cant pay my taxes on the car until it passes. The trouble is there are five readiness monitors that have to trip on the car. It has no check engine lights, the battery is fine, it starts and drives like a champ. I'm told you can inspect it if one readiness monitor wont trip but not 3. I can find out what the other two are but I know one is the catalytic converter. They tell me to keep driving it, then drive it on the highway, then drive it between 55 and 65 mph for 50 miles, then keep it running when i pull into the shop. None of these things have worked. I've tried multiple shops. This is a state of NC computer used to perform the emissions check I guess and it wont pass if this doesnt start. Does anyone have a clue how I can get past this? Should I take it to the dealer? The shops say they can't do anything either. I hate to EOL the car just because of a computer glitch... My vehicle was rejected for being "Not Ready", what does that mean? On-Board Diagnostic II systems (OBDII) perform self-tests of their various emissions system components utilizing various monitors while the vehicle is driven. Therefore a vehicle that has received a North Carolina emissions inspection result of "not ready" due to recent maintenance or vehicle's battery replacement or disconnection must be driven to reset monitors to a ready status. These components are referred to as "readiness monitors" and identify whether the vehicle's computer has meet the vehicle manufacturer "enable criteria" conditions to run the required "diagnostic tests". The following are suggestions that may help get your monitors to a "Ready" status: Drive your vehicle for several days under normal conditions including some highway driving at the speed limit. Contact your vehicle manufacturer or repair technician and inquire about Recalls, manufacturer applied Extended Warranties, and Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) regarding the emission control system (research by your VIN). Make sure all thermostats and fuses are working properly. If your vehicle has had an after-market radio, CD player or security system installed, make sure that the wiring is not interfering with connection to the vehicle's computer or battery system. Have a diagnostic analysis performed using an OBDII Generic Scan Tool. You may be able to obtain a copy of your vehicle's "drive cycle" from your vehicle manufacturer. You may also find information regarding your vehicle's "drive cycle" in the owner's manual.

I have a 1985 brat which i bought in mid swap. I have posted the 1985 Subaru Brat Project on here in the for sale section but I've decided to move ahead with it if I can find someone competent. It is the EJ22T with Forged internals from a 1994 Subaru Legacy Touring wagon. Any recommendations in NC or VA would be appreciated. I'm in Winston-Salem. Thanks.