ThoR294
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Posts posted by ThoR294
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Always forget about the filter. I probably should do it on the last flush.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/A-Trsax-Filter-Kit/_/R-ATP18561_0456358427
This one?
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define slow and sluggish. What engine do you have? does it feel like a misfire?
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Was going to say. Cylinder needs spark/fuel/compression. Start swapping injectors/plugs and compression test lol. Good job
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Check out the FAQ sticky at the beging of this forum or the usrm I beleive there is a write up in there.
Will do. Hopefully flushing it will fix it. Currently trying to figure out why cruise randomly doesn't work
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OopsIf its not binding with the fuse in i read wrong lol
Leave it out while you do the flushes. I've heard it can just unstick immediately, and sometimes it can take a little time. On the flip side, it may not fix it at all. In that case you can pull the clutch and rebuild it fairly simply without pulling the trans.
. The first flush made it sooo much better. Before it binded REALLY bad when I cut the wheel like 1/8th of a turn. I couldn't even drive the car. I had put it in FWD mode to drive it. After the first drain/fill, I am now able to drive it in AWD mode. I can feel the shudder on most 90 degree turns, but it is no where near as bad. I will try a few more drain and fills and try more posi additive.Good news on that I can rebuild just the clutch packs without re-doing the whole trans. Any recommendations on where to get the parts/write ups on how to do it?
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Do tight figure eights in a parking lot. You'll feel the bind, and you'll know when its gone.
If I put the FWD fuse in, the binding stops. The binding is only there if the car has the AWD enabled (FWD fuse pulled). are you just saying to leave the fuse in when I drive it, and only pull the fuse when i do a drain/fill?
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The rule of thumb on a trans oil change is drain/fill 3x with some driving in between. Then add whatever magic elixr you want to try. Its been found that the flush has cleared up the torque bind you're suffering in a lot of cases.
Subaru awd in a nutshell...
Duty c solenoid controls awd. Power on, center clutch unlocked. Power off locked. Speed sensors control how often the clutch cycles. The clutch itself is a pack of discs, and plates just like the ones in the trans.
My 2cents. Flush the trans 3x and put the fwd fuse in. This will let the clutch unstick if its gonna. If it still shudders, add the friction modifier. Then leave the fuse in till the shudder stops.
Makes sense. So keep driving it and flush it with the fwd fuse in? How will I know if the shuddering stops though
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It sounds like you are finding your problems. I would say from the way you explain it that it very well could be a wheel bearing. Bearings on these cars can be tricky to diagnose. First try jacking the wheel up off the ground and see if there is any side to side play or noise when you spin it. If not then driving it for a while and feeling of your hub is getting hot or not will tell you as well.
Welp heres an update.
The grinding noise out of the right rear was the backing plate. The bottom was rusted and hitting the rotor. I smashed some of it out and cut some of it away. It is mostly gone now. It is KIND OF there, but gone. Bearings are fine.
Put 4 wheels and 4 new tires on it. I can now safely go over 40MPH
lol.I did a trans service, the fluid was sooooooooooo brown. I put 4 quarts in like a moron, so it was overfilled, and I added 3OZ of GM posi additive with it (spoke with a seasoned scubaru tech, he said he does it all the time to cure it). I drained it down till it was properly filled.
The shuddering has toned down A LOT. It is only there at extreme turns. So maybe keep flushing it? -
Will do. I am going to fix the tires first... as I can't even drive the car! Picking up a set of 15" legacy WHEELS (not ugly steelies) this Friday. will then investigate wheel bearing
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Fixed right rear caliper, replaced rear brakes. Found left rear tire has a flat spot. Could maybe cause the "torque binding?" Its bad like can't even do over 55 lol (vibration from tire).
Also found the bottom parking shoe spring on right side is hitting abs wheel? It hits hard when making a right but doesn't hit when making a left. Bad bearing?
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I am on my way now to get fluid.
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I had an 86 vf500 interceptor as well haha. Yeah Hazelton has many Subaru's!
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Awesome thank you. Put fwd fuse in for now. Will buy additive and trans fluid. The fluid is BROWN in the car
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Yeah that is what I thought. I'm not sure how subaru's AWD system works either, so I don't know if its the rear or the trans causing the binding. This is the thread I was reading on.
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I have done some googling and am finding some mixed information.
I am driving the car home tomorrow, so I want to have everything ready so i can fix it all at once. I noticed when turning it feels like the rear wheels are locked together (like the posi unit is shot, for example). The tires are all the same size, so that is eliminated.
I read that changing the fluid and adding GM Posi additive (which i have, because i have a 96 trans am) to the rear AND/OR trans??? fixes it? This is the part that confuses me, as I have no idea how the AWD subie system works. do I put that posi additive in the TRANS along with the ATF fluid AND in the rear along with the gear oil?
Thanks!!
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Sup guys.
Long time car guy... worked for Toyota/Hyundai for 7 years then decided to change careers into the IT field. Always fixing everyone's PCs/Cars.
Anyway, I am a chevy guy at heart, but love everything!
I have a bunch of cars... 1996 Pontiac Trans AM WS6, 1992 Dodge Dakota 2WD 4Cyl 5Speed, 1986 Honda Interceptor VFR750, 2009 Pontiac G5 Automatic turd. I previously had a 94 v6 firebird, 94 v8 6speed formula firebird, and a 97 Honda Civic EX with a JDM B18C Type-R swap (all 3 sold).
Here's my pride and joy. 96WS6 6speed Trans Am with the fabled LT1 (OPTISPARK) wahoo.
My bike + WS6
heres my civic. JDM yo
my dakota with 1st gen durango wheels (summer tires). stock wheels have studded snows!
Now for the reason I am here.
Picked up a 1998 Subaru Legacy L Wagon White AWD Automatic with the 2.2L. $700. (no pictures yet, sorry!) 180k miles.
It is in decent shape, only issues I see are right rear caliper isn't working, and it has LSD issue during sharp turns. Front end is a little rough (hood is dinged up and grill is missing). Nothing a run to local Harry's U-Pull-IT won't fix.
Super excited to own a Subaru! Pictures to come tomorrow.
2000 impreza rs Hissing sometimes at medium to full throttle, loss of power during this.
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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check for a loose vacuum hose. Spray around the engine with brake clean while engine is running, see if the car surges.