ebbsspeed
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Posts posted by ebbsspeed
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8 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:
Clean the throttle body and if that doesn't resolve it start by replacing the accelerator pedal assembly. They are a known failure item.
GD
Thanks General Disorder. I'll be out of town for a few days but will clean the throttle body when I return.
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A month ago I put a new engine into this car, and have been driving it gently to break it in. Yesterday I decided it was time to push the pedal a little harder, and after a short burst of acceleration the car dropped to an idle and began to have a rapidly repeating idle surge. I pulled the codes, and it appears there is an issue with the "drive by wire" components, or an idle position sensor. I pulled the codes, have a P2109 and P0638. There are 2 2109 codes and 2 P0638 codes, but they seem to be duplicates. and there is no difference in the information in them other than a timestamp.
Any tips on where I should begin in order to get the issue resolved? Thanks!!
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I jumped the gun on this. I was cleaning out the car and found the bracket under the front seat.
Is a blanket more effective than the factory shield? -
I just finished putting a new engine into an Outback I purchased. It had a trashed motor in it, and the previous owner started to take it apart, then decided it was beyond his scope of abilities. I did get everything except some mounting brackets for the turbo heat shield. Is there a drawing somewhere that shows these, or might one of you folks on the forum have these from a scrapped car?
Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!
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35 minutes ago, idosubaru said:
I think they used to be cast such that the left and right heads were identical parts. only need to cast one part for both heads. Which just requires the cam support be cast into both ends, just plug the unused one as needed.
I worked in manufacturing engineering early in my career and this type of move was very common. Having one type of cast product that could be finished as needed for multiple applications was more efficient than having two different casts, particularly for low volume products or initial development. So my guess would be the ones without plugs are later models.
Thanks for that insight. I can see where that might be the case in many instances (like pretty much any American built V8), but given the lack of symmetry of the front and rear of these particular heads, they really do have to be cast specifically for the right and left hand sides.
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8 hours ago, idosubaru said:
Yes. That’s the rear of the camshaft right? assemble and install the plastic caps that go there. Camshaft plugs they might be called.
5 hours ago, nvu said:Thanks for the responses. What are those cutouts intended for, if some D25's have them and others don't?
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I am bolting together a new engine for a 2008 Outback, and did a core swap with a Subaru shop for rebuilt heads. Not until I put the cams back into the passenger side head did I notice that there are two "half moon" cutouts in the back side of the head that were not on the original heads. What are these cutouts for (see photos}, and is there a "plug" that fits in these? If not, I'll just spin a couple of plugs out of aluminum, cut them in half and glue them in.
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I have found a couple part numbers for this, and I believe the correct one is 806923030. Can anyone confirm that this is the correct number, or have an alternate number that you know is correct? It is the o-ring that fits on the transmission input shaft and slips into the torque converter.
Thanks!
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On 4/22/2023 at 10:13 AM, GeneralDisorder said:
That is Subaru sealant that's been used at the dealer level. That's Threebond 1217B and at one time was the Subaru recommendation for transmission pans as it is particularly suited to ATF. It's VERY hard stuff - we call it the pink concrete..... some dealer techs liked it because it rarely leaks.
1217b has been superseded by 1217h for all applications. 1217h is grey.
GD
Pink Concrete is a pretty good description. Even getting the oil pan off was a stubborn SOB. I can't imagine how difficult it would be to split the engine cases that are glued together with this stuff.
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The 2008 Outback XT engine I'm rebuilding is put together with this red sealant (see photos).
I'm wondering if someone has been into this engine before, or if it is factory sealant.
Pay no attention to the 1946 Cadillac Flathead motor in the background on the first photo. It's for a hot rod project I put on hold to get this Outback back on the road for my daughter.
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8 hours ago, idosubaru said:
I guess the title was misleading, but if you read the third sentence it should have been obvious that I was asking about the two different automatics. The question is do I have a four speed automatic or a five speed automatic.
FYI, there wasn't a four speed manual transmission available in the 2008 Outback. But you probably knew that.......Determine what is in your car before thinking about swaps, which isn't likely to happen anyway.
4 ways to tell:
1. look in the cabin, does the gear selector move only straight forward and back and have a button on it and the base plate says P-N-D-1-2-3-R or some simlar combination for Park, neutral, drive..etc? That's an automatic. If it's a loan stick that has play left/rigth as much as forward/back without those demarcations then it's a manual.
2. Post a pic of the gear selector/center console, and we can tell you or compare to online photos of the same
3. plug the VIN into an online VIN decoder and it'll tell you what transmission it has.
4. Auto's have a long dipstick under the brake master cylinder on the drivers side, and a front diff gear oil cap on the passengers side. Manual only has gear oil cap on passengers side.
This is too funny not to mention - I'm not sure how to own a car, see the trans fluid, and pull the engine without knowing what kind of transmission it has, the process to remove the engine is slightly different for each.
A 4 speed easily installs in place of a 5 speed, they're like lego's and it bolts right up, but getting it to run is mad money or labor that's out of 99.9% of people's time or money thresholds. Wiring, TCU, cruise, cables, pedal assembly, driveshaft length differences, center console.... lots of work and parts. Yes other manual transmissions in other subaru's will fit that vehicle. if they have a different gear ratio you'll need a matching rear diff and your speedo will be off by a litlte bit.
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I am in the process of getting a 2008 Outback XT back on the road, and when I pulled the engine I noticed the transmission fluid was kind of dark so I may be in the market for a replacement transmission. I have never driven this car, so don't know the current condition of the transmission. It was a $2000 gamble I took.
I discovered that there were both 4 and 5 speed automatics available, and was wondering if there is a way to identify which is in this car.
Can a four speed be installed in a car that originally had a 5 speed, as that seems to be the predominant AT that came in Subaru's in 2008. Are there other Subaru's that had the five speed?
Thanks!
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I'm replacing the short block on a 2008 Outback XT (E255 Turbocharged engine) and am wondering what the function of this part is. It appears to be an air pump of sorts, and I assume it is part of the emissions control. Can someone confirm what it is, and whether or not it can be deleted? If deleted, will it generate codes?
This is the newest, most complicated Subaru I've worked on to date, so I'm taking a lot pf pictures and laying out parts in order of removal.
Thanks!
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I'm looking at a 2008 Outback XT (DOHC, turbocharged) that has a real bad rod knock, and have available an SOHC from a 2009 Forester. Are these blocks the same, and is it possible to move all of the DOHC parts from one to the other?
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Thanks @idosubaru! I appreciate the confirmation of what I suspected.
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I need to replace the driveshaft due to a squeaking u-joint, and need to confirm which transmission I have. All I can find on the internet is that the 4 speed was used in the EJ25 cars and the 5 speed was used in the 6 cylinder cars. Is this the case, or is there some other way to identify with certainty which transmission is in the car before I order a driveshaft.
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U joints on propeller shaft starting to go?
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Are the rear bumpers of a 2003 Outback and Baja interchangeable? I've got a damaged rear on a Baja, and the pictures I see of the Outback look like the bumpers are very similar.
Thanks!
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I found a replacement on eBay, from a salvage Baja.
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On a manual transmission it's easy to tell by turning the transmission input shaft and counting the number of rotations it takes in order to make the output make one complete rotation. The difference between a 3.90 and a 4.11 will be close to a quarter turn of the input shaft.
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Do any of you know where I might get this piece for my son's Baja? It has an aluminum bed cover on it, and the wind caught the lid and broke the travel limiter, so the lid flipped up too far and cracked this piece. I haven't tried a dealer yet, would just as soon find one from a salvage Baja if possible. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I need the one for the drivers side.
Thanks!
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Educate me, what is the FWD fuse? Something that puts the car in Front Wheel Drive only mode?
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I know for a fact that the 2003 NA SOHC motors require valve adjustment, not sure about the later years or turbo versions.
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From a wasted spark perspective 1 and 2 are buddies, but from an opposite polarity firing perspective it is not. That's why one plug from each pair of "buddies" is OK, and one is not.
!! RESOLVED!! 2008 Subaru Outback XT Codes P2109 and P0638
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Well, I got it fixed. When I bought this car I was told it had a bad knock, and the guy I bought it from had started to take it apart. The intercooler and a few other bits had already been removed and thrown into the back of the car. I spent about an hour putting it back together to start it. It did have a knock that was the worst I'd heard, outside of a diesel dozer starting in cold weather. Long story short, I put a brand new short block and rebuilt heads in it, and had been driving it gently for a bit to break it in. When I finally did put my foot into it, the stuff I mentioned in the original post happened.
Based on lots of internet looking and some of the suggestions in this thread, I decided I'd try a new accelerator pedal assembly. I had the same issue afterwards, so started to pull parts to get at the throttle body. When I got the rubber boot between the intercooler and the throttle body pulled loose, I noticed the butterfly was partially open. I doused it with cleaner to see if that would free things up, but it looked fairly clean before I sprayed it. I pushed on the butterfly a bit and a "thing" that was jammed between the butterfly and body fell out, and the butterfly closed. I consider myself quite lucky that the "thing" which got blown into the throttle body when I put my foot into it never made it past the butterfly to an intake valve. I don't know if I somehow dropped this "thing" into the intercooler, or if it was dropped in there when the previous owner threw parts into the back of the car. I typically bag and label things as I disassemble something I am not familiar with, and this was my first experience with a DOHC turbo Subaru, so I was extra cautious in bagging and labelling everything I removed.
Cleared the codes, did an idle relearn procedure, and all is well.
The "thing" was a stainless steel lock washer.