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I have checked the timing. it's good. last year the timing jumped and i fixed it after much research an YT. when it broke down the first time it had jumped time because this is my first Manual vehicle and i stalled it taking off from a stop sign. It does roll over. makes some noise when it does, similar to the whirring noise. How can i verify whether it's the main bearing or not? edit: TBH the engine needs an overhaul. 250k miles and its got an oil leak on the front. looks like its front seal or the oil pump/gasket. however i would rather do a ej22 swap instead of rebuilding the 2.5 that's in it.

So, little on the car. it has 250k miles on it. was in a fender bender with a previous owner so it had repair on the front passenger. Has good suspension and tight alignment. early spring the car broke down 80 miles away. went and got it 2 days later. When i left the station that night it started making a whirring noise and then stopped. when, i tried to turn it over it would not fire and made noises. it sat for a bit until in July i asked my little brother(has rebuilt multiple motors and i trust his judgement) He's positive the front main bearing is out. my decision at this moment comes down to this. Unless the crank got damaged when the bearing went out I'm thinking i'm just going to keep this motor and put work into it. if the crank is bad and it killed the block i'll look into a reliable source for a good motor i can put a gasket kit into and probably timing and water/oil pumps. now this motor maybe a swap to the EJ22 if i find a good option. question; the timing parts on on my EJ25 are fairly new, would the rollers bolt to a EJ22? same on the water pump, is it compatible with a EJ22. just looking at options for saving a Little $$. I work part time at a grocery store and CHild support takes half my check right now. so i only have $60~ a week right now.

read grossgary's guide for ej22 swaps. I know what i'm looking for. 96 - 98 Legacy or impreza With ej22 and auto trans. 95 is a complete plug and run. the 96-98 requires the exhaust manifold. Manuals don't have EGR so i would have to do the vacuum rerouting. i'll also need the Intake manifold, verifying this with gary but i'm positive that comes as well.

The yard i goto is pretty big. It's in an old Train depot or something. Huge warehouse building with cranes and tracks. they separate the cars so i won't have to search the whole thing. a couple years ago i bought a Crate engine(block with head and valve cover) from there for $100 I don't think the price will be much different. so the 22e is a SOHC? 95 dp? not sure what you mean. anyways, going to be leaving shortly to go get my car from the side of the highway.

Well don't have to worry about troubleshooting the issues... It's down completely now. The car is sitting about 80~ miles away on the side of the highway. i'll be going up on Tuesday to bring it back. I was leaving the station where i met my Daughter's mom. it started making a whirring noise. got out on the highway and the whirring got worse suddenly and lost all power and it won't start. the motor will turn over but it won't fire. and when its turning over it makes a noise, i'm not sure how to describe it but to me it sounds like maybe a bearing went out. there was no clank or sudden sounds. no oil pool on the pavement none of that. so the engine is repairable but the cost will be too much for my budget. I'm going to go up to KC and pull a motor from a U Pick it to drop into the car. Probably grab a MAF as well. and befor ei put it in i'll put new Head Gaskets on it and make sure the Timing is good. the timing on my ine is good, relatively new, i would get a belt though. I'll know more when i get it back and get some things tore off to check. going to pull the timing cover off and verify that is good. considering rings while i have it apart. but that will depend on price. I'm only going to have a couple hundred. and the "crate" engine will cost at least $100. thats what it was a couple years ago when i pulled a motor for my Tracer. so, since a motor swap is in the future i may take this opportunity to swap to a 2.2L. the 95 2,2L that is "plug N' Play" i would like to get identifiers for that. or a low work 2.2L swap. every Subaru Vet says the 2.2L is a better more reliable engine so i'll swap to it. If there is a good Write up that can give this info to me link it and i'll read it. Pictures are important for identifiers.

Something that might help or not. I forgot about it because it hasn't happened in a while. My speedometer will stop working out of the blue. the trip counter also stops. i used to be able to press the trip reset and it would get the speedometer working. I'm thinking there might be either a short or maybe a bad sensor if thats what drives the Speedometer. Next I'll be making a trip to the yard and finding a MAF sensor to replace.

this is greatly annoying me. I have checked my wires and vacuum lines. everything is properly connected. i'm still getting P0103 and P0102 codes. Can a bad sensor cause fluctuations in the electrical system? I know my moms Expedition is getting new sensors because thats the code its throwing up. the heads are likely fine. we wont know until it gets done. so this made me think, Should i check sensors? and which ones should i start with? i know that the issue comes down to the Fuel/Air systems. it seems like its either gasping for eir or running lean. I can't tell which. All i know is, its becoming very frustrating.

the Whining is most likely the PS pump. when i was doing work i had it disconnected and pulled off to the side. This cause PS fluid to leak out. Checking hoses wouldn't do anything about the MAF HIGh and LOW? I'm wondering about the IACV, i remembered that the guy i bought this car from said he adjusted the Idle. i didn't think anything of it at the time, but after some reading recently i'm thinking it could be an issue. but i don't remember the exact method he used. He might of just adjusted the throttle cable. I'll go check stuff and see if i find anything.

I don't know where to go with this now. new Fuel Filter installed, used MAF Cleaner to clean the MAF out. i don't even know where to start looking for P0103 and P0102 codes. and now its throwing misfire on 1 and 4. I'm positive the misfire is the plugs. they're Bosch Platinum 2(?). Supposed to be Bosch brand OEM equivelants. i'll end up getting some NGKs with in the next couple months. here is a run down on the symptoms, fires and runs fine. the Idle is spiratic and it stutters here and there when going down the road. the Idle also makes it dificult for around town driving. if i don't rev it before i take off from stop then it will certainly die. the OBDII Codes are P0103 and P0102, or the MAF Sensor is getting HIGH/LOW on the circuit. I'm not sure where else to go from here.

Already checked for damage. now i'm going to pick up a fuel filter monday. after the car has been running, it seems that some fuel seeps from one of the filter connections. replacing the filter should help a lot. i hope the MAF isn't bad, that's 210USD minimum. I have noticed that its making somewhat of a whining noise. it seems to be either a belt or something on top of the motor. I'll pick up some MAF cleaner on Monday.

anyone know what i can do about this? should i get MAF cleaner and clean the MAF? i used my finger to touch the plastic and its not dirty. no i did not touch the sensitive wires. the Idle is erratic its having issues staying running just sitting there. the Idle will drop to the 100s and below. i have searched every inch and there is no vacuum lines not hooked where they should be.

P0103 - MAF Sensor circuit High Input P0102 - MAF Sensor circuit Low Input. that could explain the roughness and really low Idle. going to look some things up and then go tinker.

The battery is shot, after driving it around i parked and within minutes it was drained enough i could not start the car. so mom picked up a battery while she was out. I have to take my old one in for the core charge. Taking it to Autozone after work to get the codes read. Question, is there a For Sale or Parts threads on here? I'm looking for the right turn signal for my car. and maybe a couple other things. Going to look into Oil Pump gasket and front main seal. since i put it back in time to see if that was the issue so i didn't get the main seal done like i wanted to. and i'm thinking that with as much oil as i'm losing and it being a significant drip on the front, i'm wondering if the oil pump gasket needs replaced. its February now and in my part of the Midwest its normally got bad weather. so i'm going to have to just sink money into oil to keep it topped off until about May then i'll tear the front off again and replace the gasket and seal.

Alright, so got my PCV Hose connecter solved. had some spare couplers and a T section so i got some vacuum hose and made a jury rig to be able to fire it up and make sure its running. jumped it and rev'd it up. It bellowed white-blue smoke for a couple minutes and then the color went away. Its idling now, i think it just needed the cobwebs blown out. it sat for 4 ish months. it is still a bit rough and has a 500~ rpm idle. going to run up to Autozone and put it on the code reader and see what i get. possibly related, one of the fuel lines running from the Filter to the injectors was seeping fuel from the hose on top of the filter. also turns out my battery might be fine. i cleaned the terminals when i put it back in the other day and after running the car for a bit its holding a charge it seams.

not sure how i'm going to get the OBDII codes, i know what you're talking about. But, my battery is shot, i don't have the money for a battery atm. What are the Amp levels of the standard Subaru battery? mine is a actual subaru battery but it doesn't have the amps listed on it. we have a couple batteries here, not sure if they'll work though. if i can get the minimum CA/CCA numbers then i can check to see if the batteries we have are sufficient enough.

Question, checked the IACV and PCV. the PCV needs a spray and the IACV is pretty good. Is the hose going to the pCV supposed to be stiff as plastic?as well this goes down to a T section where one side is bigger and is connected by like 4 inches of hose to the block. the small section of bigger hose is a bit stiff as well, not as much as the other one. Regardless while trying to remove the hose connected to the PCV the hose broke and broke the T section as well. @Grossgary, i stated in my OP when this happened bu i'll reiterate. I'm a novice manual driver. i've gotten good but i still kill it occasionally. the day this happened i was stopped at a sign and then when i took off i killed it pretty hard. and after that is when it lost power and couldn't run right. pulled over, called my mom and had my brother come tow me home. we fired it up a few times to try and diagnose but thats it. Yes when i rev it it would stay running and the clicking i was hearing disappeared. so i think i lucked out and didn't get a bent valve. I planned on another compression test very shortly.

should i check the IACV? I checked and checked and there is no hoses or anything unplugged. the only thing unplugged is one of the fans. but thats because i was testing the car and didn't want to get down in the mud and reconnect it. i connected one of them without issue but forgot the other one -___- I watched a couple videos on cleaning the IACV. i think removing it will be the real chore.

i couldn't tell between my mom's expidition and having to sit in the car to rev it a little to here it. my Air intake is a little diferent. when a previous owner was in the fender bender whoever did work on it removed the stock intake. This https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_VG5JTFdMeKMDlueG9XbnFaRlU/view?usp=sharing is a pic of my engine bay. I will check for the hose. I only removed it once back a couple weeks ago when my little brother and I were doing a compression test. and yes i plugged the fuel pump back in. i think i do hear a sucking sound but i could be mistaken. the "knock could also be a click. i need to charge a battery and fire it up a couple times.

pulled the car apart today. got the timing reset. went over the marks multiple times. battery is shot won't hold a charge that will turn the motor. So i had to bust out the Jumper cables and jump it. It fires up, runs for a moment then dies. on start up i can here a "knocking"? I'm hoping thats just the engine trying to lube itself after sitting so long. That's what it sounds like almost anyways. Going to do some more with it tomorrow and maybe pull the timing cover off again and check the timing again. I checked it to make sure the timing was right after i set it. Cyl 1 & 3 Intake Cam was what had jumped. everything else was in time.

you bring up a great point. I tried to search his VIN but it was invalid. I'm wanting to go look at it but i haven't had the spare time. regardless i may not need it. and the timing will fix my car. I did ask about the Impreza earlier in the thread but no one responded about it. thank you for the info =] I have looked at Timing stuff and i will not disagree, however the guy in the vid does state only counter clockwise the driverside bottom cam IF its within 90 degrees.

I'm checking the timing double again. the pics i added, the passenger side(rounded front cams) the notches are lined up on the top cam(right side of the pic) the bottom cam is not in line. i'll turn the crank a few times and re align it before I start pulling the timing off. i'm going to reuse the current belt to test the timing after double checking the timing. then i'll fire it up. the front seal is also getting replaced, its like $11 from autozone so i'll probably pick that up monday. should i look at an Oil pump gasket? there are a couple bolts missing from the central timing belt cover. going to take one up with me and get some replacements. I really don't want to skimp on TB i understand how important it is. The engine i have lined up is the link to craigslist above a few posts. Its got relatively new timing w/ pump, tires, brakes, and a few others. its a steal for $400. I'm probably going to make them get Belt, Toothed Idler, and a Tensioner. they're fixing my car since moms will take time to get done(burnt valve, v8 triton, 98 Expidition) how will i know if the valves are bent? i'm assuming some kind of noise.

What is a good Brand for the belts? Autozone has a belt for $40, my brother is paying for this and is being a cheapskate so i have to do bare minimum to get it running again. I wanted to get a timing kit, front main seal(mine leaks), and battery. The Impreza i was looking at has a realitively new timing kit on it. as well a newer working battery. tomorrow maybe saturday i'm going to put it in time and make sure its running correctly(no knocking or anything) and then if its fine i'll get a belt. If its not and has a knock or something i'll probably have them pick up that Impreza and do a swap.

Great video that explains the timing with good details. thanks to this i know for sure the timing is off.

Ok so with the day being really nice today, I decided to check my car once again. With the better light I can see that this may not be in time. The confusing part is the arrows on my cam gears. However i see the little notches and they don't line up. Passenger side is off by a tooth or two and driver side is all kinds of off. This is based on the notches. There is more than this on the cams. There is also some double notches. I took pics with my cell and attaching to the post.

yeah the plugs look good. a light brown tint. when i bought this a little over a year ago i put new plugs, plug wires and Ignition coil on it. It's supposed to stay relatively nice this week so i plan to go and check the fuel system. I'll check the pressure, and then one by one pull off the plug for the injector to see if one might be clogged. Also want to check the exhaust and see if it sucks my hand in, that's the technique i found on the net for checking for a burnt valve. The good news is that my brother is talking about going ahead and getting my car fixed since the repairs on her expedition will take some time. My brother has a mechanic friend that "moonlights" he works on vehicles and tractors out of his garage. he is who we go to for repairs. and since he has to do the work after he is off work pulling the engine apart is going to take a few days. I'm trying to determine what to replace. i need to prove that the issue is not electrical. because if its mechanical i have that subaru above lined up for the engine. he hasn't sold it after a couple months. He put new timing on it not long ago.unfortunately there is not as much on the car that i can put on mine. with it being an Impreza, the bodies are not the same. the Car is also Auto so the trans is also out. i'll get a lot under the hood still and hopefully the tires are the same size as mine, he put new tires and brakes on it to,