ratch

I'm not going to argue over another member. I stand by my statement, all he provided was the same thing that was already discussed. which tells me he most likely didn't read the thread itself. I asked about the lower PSI on my Cyl 1 & 3. that information is still what i'm looking for. I also stated that all 4 cams lined up, and that i did not find any marks on the fly wheel. On another note, i looked up the Subaru my brother found on Craigslist. its a really good Buy TBH. he put some money into the motor prior to the wreck. new timing with pump and belts. as well new tires and brakes. he has all the receipts. the car is a Impreza, but the engine is identical to my EJ25. I'll know more when i can get in to look at it. the only concern i have is whether its DOHC or SOHC and how identical a 2.2 would be to a 2.5, in appearance. It is stated to be an Auto and if it is SOHC the main worry i would have is whether the fuel management would work with it. I know on some cars converting them to DOHC can be troublesome if the car is auto or manual. My wagon is Manual. if i need to put the SOHC fuel management into my outback, would the fact that the impreza being auto cause issues. This is speculation atm. I need to look at the impreza before i can make any for sure decisions. here is a link for anyone curious. It's an old post, but i called him just a little bit ago and he still has it. the price was even dropped from 600 down to 400. If its the same engine and I get it. Then, i'll put new Head gaskets, valve cover gaskets and main seals in it before i drop it in my car. http://seks.craigslist.org/cto/5379360252.html @1 lucky texan, the wreck was before i owned it and it was just a fender bender. I don't know if there would be enough to cause a cracked cam pulley. I also already said the cams are all in line. If it was timing all cylinders would run like spoob not just one side of the engine.for the culprit to be timing on the side of the low compression cylinders those would have been out of time. i'm not putting all my horses in the burnt valve scenario, but something is going on that is causing that side of the engine to have really low compression. with the other side having normal compression i wanna say that my be cause the issue. the cause could be a number of things. it could be a failing gasket, It could be worn rings, there is also the burnt valve possibility. There is also other things that i may not be thinking about.

this is pretty much was a waste of our time. all you did was post a paraphrase of what was already posted and then slapped your opinion on the end. if there was a down vote option i would down vote you. my last post i asked about the PSI levels in my Cyl 1 & 3. this tells me you didn't even read the thread. if you don't like them why are you on this forum? I don't care for your reasons, i don't want you posting in my thread again. On another note, if only i had the money, i could have gotten a replacement engine for 300-400 bucks. there is a totaled 97 Legacy outback my brother found. the car is not useable but the engine was still alright. we should be getting Income tax shortly and if they can i may see if we can grab the car if they still have it.

Bump for some help?

Reviving this to give an update. Finally was able to get my brother's assistance. Did a compression test on all four cylinders. Cyl 2 & 4 are over 170 close to 180 PSI. Cyl 1 & 3 are low, 155 & 120~ respectfully. Checked Timing. Cams are all in time, well from what we can see. didn't have the tools to remove the Harmonic balancer to check the little gear behind it on the position. We're positive its in time. the cam gears were a bit different than the ones in rebuild videos i watched. but the arrows on the cams lined up with the notch on the back plate thing. Next i want to test Fuel system but its starting to get cold so i came in and will check the fuel system later this week probably. So anything someone can tell me about the low PSI on Cyl 1 & 3? should i look at pulling the head and replacing gaskets? could it be a burnt valve? I know bad Cylinders got sub 100 at least thats the information i have found. Any information would be greatly appreciated. ratch

ONLY I already checked the teeth on the arms and transmission. that was the first thing i did. I'm going to check the bushings, chances are that's what is bad. and $5~ fix is better than $100~ "The '95 is only year that has EGR (automatic transmission only)" I have a Manual Trans. would a 95 Auto with EGR still be fine? My brother has a Mechanic Friend, I believe he can do Head Work not sure on it. he also doesn't charge me full cost that a shop would. He did a Trans swap in my 93 Tracer and only charged me a bill, took a bit to do as well because the one i pulled got pretty damaged because the U Pick It we went to. They take and use a chisel and hammer to punch holes in Trans, Oil Pan and Gas tanks to drain them. which caused the bottom part of the trans to be damage. So they had to clean and replace with the parts from the old Trans. I can also do a lot of the labor like removing the engine and Heads. I'm competent i just lack good tools and work space. This time of the year i don't want to be crawling around in mud doing work on my car. If it is a burnt valve, would it be better to get the whole Head worked on and replace the valves or just the damaged ones? should i also go ahead and pull the other side and do the valves there? maybe i should look into a pair or Heads? I planned on having the front seal replaced for sure. but i'll definitely check the rear seal and probably go ahead and replace it. I think it might have fairly new timing on it. this was in an accident and the timing cover is different. one side is old dusty and looks terrible and the little piece on the drivers side is nice and black. I live about 2 hours from a U Pick it and Pick N pulls so if i need a set of heads i would probably go there. Pick N Pull has a car inventory online. U Pick It is just a local business in KC. they have a KS side and a MO side. the MO side is the largest. it in an old Train Depot. i bought my Tracer Engine for a bill there. its Crate style so it was Block, Heads, Valve covers and oil Pan. I "could" get lucky and find a EJ22 EGR there. however i would need to know how to identify them. it would probably be one of those, buy it, put it on a stand. Get a Rebuild Kit and rebuild/Clean the motor up. however, I probably won't have the money for a second Motor. Most likely got pull the parts i need. Passenger front signal housing, Wiper transmission, heads, and maybe wiper fluid motors and harness. Mine are jury rigged bad. if i have a enough probably grab a set of fenders, so long as they match. driver's Side is scuffed and a couple dents and then the passenger is a solid black replacement. Thanks, ratch

The wipers were the same ones from the previous owner. I checked them but it's possible it was a broken clip. the real issue is that the whole arm will leave the windshield when they are running. i'm not sure if i should replace the assembly or the motor or both. going to check Nappa/Autozone/O'Reiley's and see if they sell them or if i need to get through the dealer. I'm pretty sure the Wobbling is wheel related. I just wanted to make sure something else couldn't cause it as well given the state of the car. Is there a good guide on how to do a leak down? My brother has a friend that a mechanic i may also consult him as well. what would the cost or difficulty be for burnt valves? i'm very limited on my budget. @Imdew: I have seen this recommended in more than one area, can you explain the benefits of the 95 2.2 vs my 2.5? you also say Plug and Play for the most part, whats the little bit extra that would need done? I have replaced engines before and researched heavily on motor swaps (93 tracer SOHC to a 93 Mazda Pro DOHC), so i know that there is some work needed along with modifications on major engine swaps. lastly, ERG? I have a lose idea what this may be but elaboration would be welcomed. Thank you both for input, I'm picking up the compression tester after work today and my little brother may be helping me with checking the timing tomorrow. may also do the compression tomorrow as well. I may just buy the compression tester instead of renting. its $30+Tax to buy and $43~ w/ tax to rent. granted i get the $43~ back but regardless it looks like i have to save for a bit for the repairs so i may just buy the tool to have for the future.

Had a brain fart. could have sworn i had a SOHC, went out to check the PVC Valve and was looking and went "Oh sh!t, i have a DOHC not a SOHC" which changes a lot of the labor involved with replacing the gaskets.

So, i have several things wrong with my 250k Legacy Outback. but first a rundown, bought this august of 2014 had a little shy of 230k miles on it. Its a 2.5L Manual Trans. Previous owner was in a fender bender. has a solid black front passenger fender and the stock intake was replaced with an after market dome thingy. the suspension is really tight and responsive as well its got great alignment. straightest running car i ever owned. Primary concerns were i was getting error codes, if he read it correctly, miss fire on 3 & 4. I replaced Ignition coil, Spark Plugs, Spark Plug Wires, Crank sensor, the guy i bought it from said he had recently replaced the cam sensor. Well it still gave me the miss fire codes. I also found that it was leaking oil, front seal and somewhere else. I checked the Pan Gasket and found the bolts where not tight really at all, so i tightened them down a little. still leaking. I've been racking my brain over it but didn't really have the money or time to look into it, Full time student. well i'm out of school and a couple weeks ago it stopped, I went to accelerate after stopping at a sign, and i killed it. this is my first manual i've owned, still a novice. well i fired it up and started off, well it wasn't running right. spitting and sputtering and no power. been here, done that. figured it was blown gasket. there is no oil in my antifreeze and vice versa. I'm off for a couple days from work so i figured i would look into it. gotta pick up a Compression tester and i'm going to check the timing. both said things will tell me where to look next. Research i found could have jumped time. however after a little more i believe passenger side head gasket may be needing replaced. in a video i found the mechanic explained that bad gaskets leak coolant on the drivers side and oil on the passenger side of Subaru EJ25 engines. the oil leak is primarily Passenger side from what i can tell. Minor issues, Wiper blades fly off my windshield when i exceed 45mph, 40 with the right wind. I had to remove my Passenger Arm after the wiper blade flew off while i was doing 75 down the highway. Now 65+ i get a bad vibration in my steering wheel. could be tires, as stated above this has great alignment and good suspension. currently i need it running again. However hopefully when my income gets a little more loose i can look at rebuilding the engine. or buying a rebuilt to swap in.