jlawlor

Thank you. I had a little trouble figuring out how to pop out the side lamp. Suddenly it popped out and all was well.

I have a 2001 Subaru Forester S. I need to replace the headlamp case. How do I get the old one off? I already have the grill removed and am only one bolt away from the entire removal. But I can't figure out how to get to the bolt to the lower outside part of the headlamp case.

Wow! That was easy! I knew there had to be a trick to it. Now to find a new one.

This is not a cover. I figured the plastic cover must need to pry apart. So pry I did and break I did. I can fix it with superglue. I pried from the drivers side. This is the compass cover and it should have been pried from the side to the front of the car or nearest the windshield. Either way I have it off now. Maybe I'll get a new one with the new mirror. The cover has 3 retention snaps. One on each corner toward the interior and a larger one in the center nearest the windshield. One should pry on the largest one to prevent breakage.

Thanks but that does not match my mirror as it is not attached to the headliner. It appears as in this picture http://scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6734 but it has no torx screw in the hole as this http://scoobymods.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5011&d=1155177800. Instead there is what appears to be a piece of aluminum there instead. I think this is the base that fits over the mounting plate. I started to take a picture, but my battery is discharged. I will charge it and try again later. Unless the above is information enough.

I have a 2001 Subaru Forester S with an electronic compass mirror and anti-glare feature. The top 1cm of the mirror appears to be losing the anti-glare fluid as if it has come unsealed at the top of the mirror and the fluid is settling producing a clear mirror at the top and a tinted remaining mirror. What is the trick to removal. I figure I need to replace it.

I finally got the correct bulbs. I guess it just took a parts counter guy willing to look up the part number for me. The first parts counter guy acted as if it could not be done. Lucky for me, my dealership has 5 different guys and I was lucky to find the good one :cool: on my second try while trying to return the incorrect bulbs. The Subaru part numbers are: 83426AA051 for the amber @$4.16 each 83426AA040 for the clear @$3.12 each. I'm all set!

I see. It's just a miniture lamp that needs to be removed from the plastic base. I guess I was too timid. Do you know the standard bulb number for this? I will post it if I find it.

The amber on/off indicator light on my 2001 Forester has blown. I is removed from the switch and has a number TS N. Does anyone know if or where I can get these bulbs?

I did not have an exhaust leak. The Rear O2 sensor was vibrating against the heat shield. Tin snips did the job. I now have over 5000 miles on the repair with no problems. I did not have to replace the weak stud, but will at my next oil change. I was able to reinstall my old O2 sensor. The problem code P0420 was definately the bad cat and not the O2 sensors. Thanks for everyones help.

Darn it. I have an exhaust leak. It is only heard while the engine is in reverse and under load. Apparently this torques the engine counterclockwise (when seated in the car) putting strain on the right side exhaust mount and my studs are pulling out. I wait for a free weekend to replace the studs. My wife drives this car about 70 miles a day, so if it is going to be a problem, it should rear it's ugly head soon. I think it might also be better to see if my new cat solves my problem. If I can get 500 to 1000 miles on it without the P0420 code setting I'll feel much better about replacing the studs. Thanks for the link and I will add it to my favorites. Unfortunatly, Subaru does not give that information away without a price. I would prefer the one time cost of a Chilton's book. I did find a listing for Subaru Forester 1998-2002 in the Chilton's SUV book. The book costs $40 to $75 depending on if you get the professional version or not. This book covers almost all manufacturers and is good sized, but it must be pretty general information. Probably more than I will need though. I guess I'll order one of those.

Thanks for your reply. I put my new cat in yesterday. In the bottom of the box for my new cat I found the gaskets. There are 2. A thin metal/paper one at the inlet and a metal coarse steel wool like gasket at the outlet. I got the cat from http://www.exhaustwarehouse.com for $273.18 that included shipping from their New York location to Indiana. The unit is a simpler version than the Subaru Part. Most of the heat shielding is missing. There is sheilding over the top of the units 2 catalytic elements but none over the bottom or around the pipe separating the units. It fits well but the holes in the mounting flanges are elongated to accomodate variations in fit. This requires the use of washers or flange nuts and bolts. I screwed up my original bolts trying to get the old cat off without dropping the Y pipe. Once I realized I needed to drop the Y pipe the install went easy. Due to the enlarged holes in the flanges you need to assemble the Y pipe to the cat finger tight, put the assembly in place finger tight and snug up the Y pipe/cat junction with a wrench. Then drop the unit again and tighten the Y pipe/cat junction well and reinstall. I found that the Subaru dealership had apparently stripped out my studs connecting the Y pipe to the exhaust manifold/port when they did the recall head gasket job on the car. Not knowing the torque values I guessed at 50 ft/lbs but one of the studs on the right side started pulling out at 30. I left it at 30 instead of replacing it and will listen for exhaust leaks. I was able to get 40 ft/lbs on the other two. On the left side one of the studs had already been replaced. I hope this solves my problems. Do you know the proper torque values for these studs? Do you know of a good repair manual for a 2001 Subaru Forester?

My light is on like clockwork at 200-300 miles. I've tried; cleaning the sensor contacts, blowing out the sensors, replacing the rear sensor, and 2 cans of Seafoam. Tomorrow I'll replace the cat - all for an annoying light.

I am replacing the cat. The Seafoam had no effect.

Does anyone know if there are gaskets on either end of the one piece catalytic converter for a 2001 Forester and are the gaskets the same or two different part numbers. My Subaru dealer's diagram shows one for the front only. Napa shows one for the rear only.

I'll try the seafoam tonight if I can pick up a can and report back. Thank you.

You are probably also losing your cat. My problems came on slowly and seemed to start on wetter days but not always.

Water could also be shorting the plug connection for the rear O2 sensor. Try some silicon grease in the plug. I was having similar problems but now it seems as though I have a fouled cat. I can now only go 200 to 500 miles before trouble code P0420 is set.

I have replaced the after cat O2 sensor and continue to receive this code. The code is intermittant. After clearing the code I can run highway for about 500 miles before it returns. Mixed commuting milage will only go about 150 miles. The sensor has carbon on it when removed. The car runs fine and has 110K miles. I get no other codes indicating too rich or lean mixtures. Should I try injector cleaners? Will these cleaners also work on the cat? Is it worth trying to remove and rinse out the cat with solvent to improve efficiency? Can one buy a used cat from a junk yard or is this against some laws?

My 2001 Forester built in 07/2000 O2 sensor is the same as a 2002 model year. I purchased one from the dealership ( Subaru part 22690AA640) and it is the same as a Bosch #15336 available at most local auto parts stores at much less than the $160 I paid. The problem was that all the auto parts stores are showing a different part for the 2000 and 2001 Subaru Forester that has only 3 wires and a triangular plug. The correct sensor has 4 wires and a rectangular plug.

Thanks for the reply. This is definately the rear sensor. My front sensor has 5 wires and has a huge square connector (about 2 cm x 2cm x 6 cm).

I am having trouble matching an O2 sensor. The sensor is a 4 wire sensor with a rectangular OEM plug. All the auto parts stores are indicating a 3 wire sensor with a triangular plug as the proper match. This vehicle was made before October 2000 but is a 2001 model. The 2002 O2 sensor is a 4 wire unit and as best as I can determine from the Bosch pictures it has a rectangular plug. Does anyone know if this sensor was also used on 2001 models?

I believe I need to replace the O2 sensor after the catalytic converter. I was having trouble codes indicating a miss match between the pre cat sensor and the post cat sensor. I removed and cleaned both sensors and they worked fine for a few months. Both sensors were slightly loose fitting and seemed to report trouble during wet periods. I think I had a grounding problem. Now I am getting P0420 -Catalyst efficiency below threshold- indicating a bad sensor after the cat or a bad cat. I would prefer to change the sensor considering my previous troubles. (I wish I could remember the previous code). The dealer part is about $160. I ordered an OEM part from Autozone $69 and ended up with a three wire unit with a triangular plug Bosch #13036. The original is a 4 wire unit with a rectangular plug. They have a 4 wire unit Bosch #13469 that their book indicates is for the pre cat sensor. My pre cat sensor has 5 wires. Does anyone know what part I can use for this. I can solder in a generic but I want to make sure the unit is a match before I go to that much effort. Also, I would not mind paying a little more for an OEM easy plug in install, but I would like to find one from an auto parts store instead of paying the stiff bill from the Subaru Dealership.

Bummer. The axle nut was already at or above 145. With the brake removed the wheel continues to make noise while turning it with a breaker bar and socket on the axle nut in the same spot each time the wheel turns. Looks like the bearings shot and the brakes are badly worn. I guess its time for both to be done at the same time. The car has 90K on it. Should I use the taper roller bearings from a Legacy or WRX instead of these whimpy Forester bearings? Should I consider replacing any of the other bearings while I'm at it or at least the other rear?

Thanks. I'll give it a try in about 12 hours. It's time for bed soon.