swervey87gl
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Posts posted by swervey87gl
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One set is for the turbo manifold and the seccond is for the non turbo. You have to cut and reweld your manifold. Just use Mig its easiest.
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It works to use the turbo exhaust. Gunslinger did it. But he noticed a loss in power from it. We felt that the smaller pipe inside of the turbo exhaust was too restrictive. That is just my/our opinion. I personaly would go through the pain of fabing one from scratch with the proper size tubing. If can fab the parts in place of the turbo you can probably do the whole thing on your own. I have the turbo exhaust sitting in my garage but I would rather make it from scratch and have larger pipes. Just my thoughts.
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Yea I was thinking of that, I just wanted to be careful to get the right one. I could picture getting a flat in the middle of no where and have one lug spinning becaues I used the wrong size bit. I thought that the whole might be bigger from the stud bieng pressed in there. I don't know.
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Just got my mill working and wanted to know what size exactialy the wholes should be drilled for the 4 extra studs. I know someone has posted on here somewhere, what size to use. But I don't feel like searching through tons of threads to find it. So just a quick bit size and I will be on my way.
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If I have a motor that has this problem on a carb will I have the same problem if it is FI. Just asking because I have one of these motors sitting around and FI in my car.
Thanks for the plug Matt:lol: .You need to clean out the PCV system, which is any and all hoses that attach to the valve covers and/or the PCV valve, which screws into the back of the intake manifold. There is also a little teeny filter inside the regular filter housing that needs to be cleaned. This filter cleans the air that the PCV system sucks into the crankcase. It is located on the right rear of the air filter housing if you are looking at it while standing in front of the car. Also, replace the PCV valve with a genuine subaru one, as others are often problematic. That should help take care of the problem.
I'm still working on perfecting the PCV oil separator. Right now I've had a prototype on my car for a few thousand miles and it still sucks oil in when taking sharp corners at 75-plus. I'm going to add a baffle to it and retest as soon as I get the time. If I am able to figure it all out, they will be for sale at WCSS7 (or via mail order).
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Well thats good to know that the motor isn't bad.
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A couple of my buddies and I were on the way back from a local lake this last weekend camping. And on the way back the motor in one of our cars just died. We noticed the same thing had happened that happened to another one of our cars. The oil seem to be coming up the hose from the valve cover. All we could guess is that there is a problem with one of the valves. I don't know. Does this ring a bell. It was on a EA82 carb. GL.
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http://www.drivetechnologies.com/index.html
Anybody price this out for CV joints on a subie. Or if they even work.
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After the ten pages of questions about who is better AA or BYB. I wanted to know everybodys opinion of it. At first he was to shady about his lift in the back. Then later explained. But I don't know. Or if anybody has got one yet I am curious what its like. As I am sure alot of us are.
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How much did all of the stuff to do that run you for the converson?
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wow. i think that I will be..... well... never.... well enjoy your suspension.
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Now where do you find this stuff. Is this something that could be applied on a lift. Also does this lift the car.
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How much does the stock travel have. On a GL. Tell me more about your custom billstine settup.
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I see all of these lifts BYB, AA, ect and I don't see any of them adding more suspension travel. Does it even matter. There is alot more ground clearance I can see. By the way that AA lift looks pretty cool. It would be nice to hear how it works after a bunch of people use them.
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It is giving me code 24 everyonce and awhile. And it idles funny when the code is flashing. So I am assuming so.
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Where is the air control valve on a spfi? Or what does it look like.
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Take the cap off of the distributer, crank the engine over to see if the rotor turns, if it dosen't you most likely have a broken timing belt and your getting that code because the signal from the crank angle sensor is not changing
That was it and its running.
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Take the cap off of the distributer, crank the engine over to see if the rotor turns, if it dosen't you most likely have a broken timing belt and your getting that code because the signal from the crank angle sensor is not changing
thanks that is what I was thinking.
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Ok, I have been reading the archives and checked everything that was talked about in previous threads - set timing, new vaccuum hoses on anything that looked like it possibly might need it, new manifold gaskets (at $5 ea!), no exhaust leaks, decent gas mileage (I'm guessing around 25, could be better), premium gasoline always, new spark plugs, good cap/rotor, good plug wires. I know it's this loud @$$ exhaust/muffler that is causing the backfire, and I'd like to remedy it ASAP.
The exhaust is made from two exhausts - part from my 'donor' car and part from my car. Custom Y-pipe and muffler from the donor car, middle section from my car. Cats removed. It's just pipe down to big muffler with a HUGE tailpipe. The muffler shouldn't even be called a muffler because it doesn't muffle much at all
I don't even see baffles in it. I love the looks of the muffler, and the sounds of it when the car is idling or low RPM's. (Doesn't sound like a 4cyl!) But, higher RPM's and it's giving me a headache, PLUS backfiring when shifting and decelerating. Always it's a pop-pop-pop-pop, and sometimes it's a BANG between shifts.Can I add something in the exhaust line that will help? Or is there a different (but still cool looking/sounding) muffler that I can put that it won't backfire? Hubby suggested a cherry bomb, but I would bet it would be the same?
I would love to be able to keep the muffler I have (it's shiny chrome and looks good!), and just add something else if I could. I hope anyhow!
Yea. gunslinger hit it. Find the two pipes coming off of the head that are not the exhaust. Follow them up to the plastic boxes that are on each side of the back of the engine. Then the hoses that come off of those that feed to the air cleaner. PLUG THEM WITH MARBLES. yes it is a hokie way to fix it but it works till you decide to convert your car to FI. Enjoy your quiet subie then.
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This had NOTHING to do with EFI and more to do with you submerging your dang engine in water too deep!
Don't blame your bone head move on EFI please. I've seen plenty of carbed engines hydrolocked from sucking in water due to water fording in something that was way too deep for their setup.
The OEM snorkel on an EA82 SPFI engine can easily be rerouted with the MAF to a higher position. Again that has nothing to do with the EFI engine and everything to do with how you set it up.
I think that gunslinger was trying to HELP people on here who might want to add a little power to their carb subie by converting it to FI. What you had to say was not helpfull. If you convert your car to FI and don't get the air intake that is in the fender, it wont seal tight to the air box in your engine compartment. And if you go through any puddles large or small, the probability of sucking water is high. I did the same thing as gunslinger in the same puddle. I drove through it fast and in the center of it, he drove slow and through the side. I don't need anybody to tell me how dumb it was. Do you think when I am sitting in a puddle that is inside and outside of the car beer in my hand cigg in my mouth, that I could figure that out. And duh we were unprepaired, that was the whole point of this thread, to HELP people be prepared when they go out.
So when your knocking him your nocking me. Sorry we were unable to think of every detail while we were teaching ourselves how to convert a car from carb to FI. And to remind you that I have never even looked under the hood of a sube until 6 months ago. But in our trial and error we were trying to HELP people on here. And you wonder why he snaps back at your smart a$& remarks. He ended his thread "well people, enjoy and learn. i sure have. now, i get to go tow the battle wagon home, wish me luck." "ENJOY AND LEARN", and you call him bone head. And from a charter member. Well thanks for your support. wongleflute.
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Sweet thanks
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Is the ECU in a automatic the same as the manual?
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Soon I will be lifting my 87gl wagoon. I am going to convert it to 6 lug and grab some toyota, mazda rims ect. I was wondering about tire choice. I would like to go with 27 in tires. But when I look for them it stops at 30 x9.5 then it goes to numbers like 235/75 r 15. I don't know what size is equal to 27 in. Any info will help along with some good advice for tire brands.
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What if the guy makes 15 a hr and drinks alot.
1987 gl Wagon w/turbo -Exhaust Manifold to flange
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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I take that back The pipes are double wall. If you cut it you won't be able to reweld the inside pipe. I would try to retap the holes that are all screwed up. Maybe drill and retap. Just a thought.