Chip Hedrick

I would change the air filter and fuel filter for good measure. They're inexpensive and changing them certainly won't hurt and might possibly help a lot.

Pat: I am the original owner of a '98 OBW (Outback Wagon), and I love it. I've put 105,000 mi on it, and I'm ready to put 105,000+mi more. The only significant problem I've had with the car is that in January at 101,000 it developed a substantial oil leak. I took it to an independent Subaru specialist. It needed new cam and crank seals. I had the timing belt and timing belt tensioner replaced at the same time. Total cost was $540.00. The car has run great since. Check the car's maintenance history. Run away if it has any history of overheating or head gasket failure. Some 2.5 engines are prone to those problems, while others seem to avoid them entirely. One theory I have heard about head gasket failure is that it may be caused/aggravaed if air is left in the engine block when the coolant is changed. Apparently these cars require careful burping. Otherwise, air trapped in the cooling system can cause the coolant to boil and/or impede coolant flow, leading to overheating and head gasket failure. Finally, regarding the brakes, it's amazing how much improvement can be had by simply changing the old fluid and bleeding the brake system. Best of luck.

Here is a picture of a closed deck short block courtesy of Crawford Performance: Here is a picture of a semi-closed deck short block also courtesy of Crawford Performance: Here is a picture of an open deck block courtesy of Cobb Tuning: Hopefully, the copyright gods will forgive me for this post!!

THAWA is probably right. I may have confused the EJ22 with the EJ22T, which was factory turbocharged.

Good work on the getting the tear down and rebuild! I won't ask what you had to threaten the dealer with to obtain that result.

Blitz: The article you cite, although interesting, doesn't mention Champions as "bad" plugs; it only mentions NGKs as "good" plugs. Therefore, it does not support your proposition that NGK plugs are superior to Champions (they may be, but the article doesn't say so or allow someone to conclude so). Nothing said so far explains why two of the NGK platinum plugs I pulled after 44,500 mi appear severely worn or why the car's power and throttle response improved dramatically after replacing the NGK platinum plugs. Legacy 2.5: Remember that at least some Subaru EJ25s come with Champion plugs as original equipment. My argument is not that Champion is superior to NGK or vice versa, only that I suspect that platinum plugs don't last as long as claimed and that if changed frequently inexpensive copper plugs may outperform overpriced platinum plugs.

Both of these places should have a turbo kit that will kit your car: http://www.forcedairtech.com/index.html http://www.rallitek.com/catalog.asp?VEH_ID=8 But I would do some research on this forum before purchasing a turbo kit: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?forumid=50 I keep thinking about "turboing" my '98 OBW. But the EJ25 has an open deck block which makes it less than ideal as a turbo engine. I suspect your car has the 2.2 engine, which I think has a semi-closed deck, which makes it a better engine on which to install a turbo kit.

Then, why don't you trade cars with your ex-wife? Seriously, even though dipstick readings in 2.5s fluctuate from day to day (at least they always have on my '98 Phase I, you have the Phase II engine), the readings that you are getting are outside of normal. Something is wrong. Start complaining to the dealer ASAP. (Oh yeah, check for simple things first. Are the drain plug and oil filter tight and not leaking?)

I don't know the terms of the warranty (especially since you writing from outside of the U.S.), but I don't think having the oil changed by an independent mechanic should be any issue. The two issues I perceive are: (1) Making sure the transmission has oil that complies with whatever Subaru requires (this should be specified in the owner's manual)--otherwise the dealer may claim that the oil you have has aggravated the problem and voided the warranty. (2) Persuading the dealer to acknowledge that a problem exists. Dealers are experts at denial/minimization. Bring pictures/metal particles if you have them. Get them to acknowledge the issue in writing. There might not be much the dealer can do for you if the transmission isn't acting up. I would seek to have the problem noted for the record and perhaps getting the dealer to do a couple of free gear oil changes to ensure that the problem is monitored and that any additional metal particles are flushed out.

(1) I agree with the suggestion that you take a witness with you to the shop. That person should be able to say that he/she personally checked the ATF fluid on such and such a date and there was little or none. Otherwise, the shop could try and play hardball with you and claim that they had properly refilled the transmision. (2) Do not drive the car back to the shop without refilling the ATF. Have someone witness that it wasn't properly filled, then refill it yourself. Keep the receipt and demand reimbursement from the shop. (3) This gentleman appears to be writing from outside the US, so I'm not sure he has small claims court (you don't need a lawyer/cheap to file/greatly simplified rules of evidence/relatively fast) or the equivalent available to him. Threatening suit may be worthwhile, but I'm not sure that actually suing would be. Unless the tranny promptly dies, what is the measure of damages the court would award? The cost of the ATF that the shop didn't put in? If the tranny doesn't immediate die, I doubt a court would award much for wear and tear on a car with 153,000 mi that was driven a mile without ATF. But that said--go ahead and threaten suit if you think that would gain you leverage with the shop.

Those sound like rather large metal particles. When I last changed the gear box oil in my ’98, all I recall was some sludge on the magnet. We need more details to respond properly. Is the car still under warranty? If so, bring it to the dealer and at least have the problem noted for the record. That may help you if the transmission later fails. It might help if you had the metal particles to show them. I would want to be able to assure them that you used the proper gear oil when you tell them that you changed the gear oil yourself. If the warranty has expired, I don’t think there is too much you can do. Just make sure you used the proper weight gear oil. Perhaps change it once again after 5,000 mi just to make sure you got all of the metal particles. Otherwise all you can do is hope for the best or pay to have the transmission torn down and rebuilt.

I'm ambivalent about the "dual exhaust." On the one hand, it probably looks cool from behind the car (and may sound nice, too). On the other hand, it doesn't look like a true dual exhaust set up--i.e., a separate midpipe and muffler dedicated to each bank of cylinders. Instead, from the picture it looks more like a "dual muffler" setup. That is the type of setup want-to-be rednecks install on their pickups--trying to look tough without having the money, knowledge, or desire to invest in a true performance setup. As I remember it, back in the '90s when Toyota built the legendary last series of the Supra it rejected dual exhausts because any performance gain was offset by the increase in weight. I'm not saying that I'd tear the dual mufflers off if I bought one of those cars. I just question the setup's functionality.

Two of the platinum plugs I pulled had severely worn down center electrodes. The other two looked OK, except for the over-spec gap. I wonder if the plugs may have been incorrectly torqued when installed by the dealer at the car's 60,000 mi service interval. Just an idea: overtight plug draws more heat from the cylinder and leads to excessive electrode wear??

Congratulations on your "new" Subaru. Does New Hampshire require vehicle safety inspections? If it does, I'd make a list of things you need to do to get this car past inspection. Then put together a budget and go from there. It sounds like you got yourself a great project car. Have fun.

The Other Skip: Thanks for your post. That's the info I was looking for.

Strakes: Your post suggests to me that by 16,000 mi copper plugs may be shot. My theory is that if you're willing to change your plugs every 12,000-15,000 mi you're better off with copper plugs, both because they are a better conductor and they cost less. If you go longer than that between plug changes, you certainly are better off with platinum plugs because they are more durable. But based upon observation of my EJ25, platinum plugs won't give you anywhere near peak performance or peak MPG if you leave them in for 60,000 mi. I suspect 30,000 mi is a better change interval for platinum plugs. 60,000 mi plug changes seem to be the equivalent of 7,500 mi dino oil changes: they're minimal maintenance for people who aren't very enthusiastic about keeping their cars in peak shape.

Earlier this year I changed the diff fluid on my wife's '03 H6 Sedan, and I noticed that the factory had used some sort of black sealant around the diff plugs. There was still some on the plugs when I reinstalled them. The rear diff on her car is not leaking. Does anyone know what that black compound on the diff plugs is? It has to be some sort of sealant.

The rear diff cover on my '98 OBW is covered with oil. I intent to check the diff oil level this weekend (and probably just go ahead and change the fluid again). No, I do not hear any screeching noises coming from the rear diff, so there must still be oil in it. I changed the diff oil last year. I did not put any sealant on the diff plugs. I wonder if that caused some of the diff oil to leak out. Is sealant recommended? If so, can anyone recommend a type or brand? Does anyone else have this problem? Could the diff oil be coming out of a vent hole somewhere on the top of the diff? I don't think that the gasket behind the diff cover is the reason, but I'll give it a closer look this weekend.

I am not impressed with platinum plugs. The last ones I had in my car were NGKs that the dealer installed. The dealer charged me $12.50 a plug. The Subaru maintenance schedule indicates that platinum plugs are supposed to last 60k mi. I pulled those in my car after about 44,500 mi. Two were severely worn. All had gaps in excess of what the Haynes manual specifies (0.039"-0.043"). I replaced the NGK platinums with simple Champion copper plugs which cost $1.69 each. Immediately upon doing so, I gained back a lot of power (I'd guess at least 10 hp). Fuel mileage also has improved. As I understand it, copper plugs are better electrical conductors, but do not last as long as platinum plugs. IMO: If you are willing to change spark plugs every 12,000-15,000 mi go with copper (it may be a good idea to pull the plugs at this interval anyway, just because the condition of the spark plugs is a good indicator of what is going on inside the engine). If you simply want a longer interval between plug changes, go with platinum, but don't expect them to last 60k mi. I suspect 30k mi is more realistic.

I changed the spark plugs on my '98 OBW two weeks ago. (I broke both of the bolts that hold the washer fluid resevoir, but they were the only casualties of the job.) One thing that I found very helpful (this was recommended in the Haynes manual) was to use a piece of small diameter hose (I used transmission fluid hose) to thread the new plugs into their repsective holes. Also, I had to buy a new feeler gauge because the two I had only went up to 0.040", whereas the Champion copper plugs I installed called for a 0.044" gap. The only plug I didn't have enough room to tighten with a 1/2" torque wrench was the rear plug on the driver's side. I was able to tighten it with a standard socket wrench. I may have had better luck had I put the car up on jack stands and tightened it from underneath.

If it occurs over many miles, I suspect that uneven wear across a brake pad is nothing to worry about and is probably a normal result of how the pad is pressed to the rotor. However, because you are experiencing noticeable pad wear only 5k mi after your brake job, I wonder if grinding down of the "ears" on the brake pads--to make the pad move more freely in the retaining clips--is to blame. I got 103,000 mi off the original pads on my '98 OBW without any problems. When I removed the pads, the retaining clips were still holding them very firmly. I think that it what you want. Otherwise, the pad could "drift" into contact with the rotor even without the brakes being applied. That could cause premature and perhaps uneven wear.

I agree with 99obw. I wouldn't invest $1600.00 plus into the existing engine which has 135,000 mi, especially since it has had a history of problems. You'd still be stuck with the old short block and old rings, bearings, etc. It sounds like the particular engine in your car is a lemon. If the transmission and the rest of the car is in good shape either have the independent tech rebuilt the heads on a new short block, as mentioned, or check the prices on a rebuilt engine from www.ccrengines.com. A rebuilt engine would probably buy you another 100,000+ mi out of the car. If the tranny and the rest of the car isn't in good shape, I'd cut my losses and unload it fast. Also, maybe I'm missing something, but why would an increase in compression after a valve job cause an engine to burn more oil??

Also, if I remember correctly from when I did my own search for wheels, all generations of Legacies and Imprezas share the same 5-lug bolt pattern (someone correct me if that's wrong, but I'm pretty certain it's correct). However, wheels from SVXs and the older generations of Subarus have different bolt patterns. Of course, a set of wheels may have the correct bolt pattern, but be too large or small for the application.

Thanks for the great advice. Hearing that a number of you have experience with broken bolts makes me feel less like an idiot. I still can't belive how easily the bolts broke off. I'll research your various suggestions, see what tools are available locally (Sears, Walmart, Home Depot, etc. all are in the area), and probably tackle the broken bots next weekend. Oh, by the way, does a Dremel tool have any advantage over a regular power drill for jobs like this? I have a sizeable electric drill that has lots of torque. Do I instead want something with high RPM?

The Truebite cutting bits do look promising. Thanks for the tip. I'll have to further research them.