91subaru-Bruce
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Posts posted by 91subaru-Bruce
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I'm starting to think it might be the blinker fluid or muffler bearings. Check those and let us know what you find
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That is strange. Only thing I can think of is some kind of "vapor lock" from warming them up after being outside in the cold???
Weird. If it happens again, try releasing the gas cap to see if there is pressure built up.
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Hello Everybody,
My Impreza '93 started to get overheated couple of months ago. Overflow tank was full and a lot of coolant was spilled around it. I got my car to mechanic and he said that my radiator needed to be replaced together with a cooling system flush. When I got back to pick my car mechanic told me that the car was still overheating so he took out thermostat (he thought that water pump did work well, but I didn't change it at that time). Two days ago I had to change my water pump, because I start leaking. The same mechanic put back thermostat and my old problem came back: coolant spilling from my overflow tank and car heats up when I moving in the traffic. Mechanic doesn't have any solution to it
(((((((((((Does anybody have any ideas!?
THANKS A LOTTTTTT!
Did they check the electric fan, relay, sending unit?
Did they pressure test the cooling system?
Is their any exhaust smell in the antifreeze?
Coolent hoses in good condition (they will collapse sometimes if old).
FYI, you should never remove the thermostat, that's a good way to damage an engine (especially in cold weather). The fact that the mechanic did this as a solution leads me to believe he doesn't fully understand the cooling system.
my .02
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It's a deal! Let me know if you find one.I think I have a grey vinyl driver's side visor that doesn't flop down. $5 and shipping and it's yours after I check the garage. I'll know tomorrow.
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Sadly the torch is passing to the newer models; fewer and fewer EA81s showing up. But today two new Legacies went into the yard. A '90 sedan with 111K on the odometer; clean car and I suspect the automatic tranny is toast. Got a clean alternator and good pair of visors of the sedan. The sedan seems like a good candidate for someone looking for an engine. The other is a '90 wagon with about 3 years or more of green scuz on it from sitting in someone's backyard. I got the alloy wheels off that one.
I've been looking for a grey drivers side visor to fit my 91 legacy for ever! Seems the yards down here in vancouver never get anything. Let me know if you know where to find one (I'll even pay finders fee!).
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That reminds me of when I bought my current subaru, the previous owner had pulled the interior lighting fuse because there was some "electrical problems" he told me. Took $500 off of the price... ended up being that switch! I just wonder how long he was driving it that way?
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Thanks for the feedback Bruce. Glad you got it fixed. That was a good problem you had there. I'm not sure who is more happy about this. You, getting it fixed, or me, not leading you down the wrong path replacing good parts for nothing. From all the testing it seemed that had to be the problem. I think we all learned something on this one.
Thanks again to Josh for the prints and support.
Yes, and thanks to everybody that pitched in.
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You got it! It was that "new" alternator that was bad. Replaced it with another one tonight and it's running like a champ again!
Thanks for keeping me from spending the next week testing relay's and diodes...
Thanks again!
Bruce
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I knew that the light would turn on when you put it on your car. The question is.... if the light will turn on in your mother-in-law's car. I don't think it will supply the load of the light. I think your meter was just picking up a residule voltage. I have never had to look at this kind of problem before but I think we are on the right track. If the light turns on in the other car then I am wrong about the alternator being bad and we will have to look at another avenue for the trouble.
The yellow wire should supply voltage too the alternator and not the other way. That is the way I understand it at least. I will feel pretty bad if this doesn't fix things and causes you extra work.
Even if it's extra work it'll be well worth the help and the piece of mind knowing that it's not the alternator!
I tried to check my mother in laws sub but it has a different plug that doesn't allow me to tap into the yellow lead easily (with it plugged in). I'll check it if the new alt doesn't solve my problems...
Looking at the wiring diagram, I was wanting to find out where the ignition relay is. If that was somehow bad it could be leaking power back through the circuit? Not sure where it is though...
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For that price range (assuming american prices are similar) you could get a 97 or 98 legacy in pretty nice condition. You gain a little more leg room too!
Or if you are partial to the early 90's styles I have a 91 with some minor electrical issues! I'm only 7 hours from vancouver B.C....
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Ok, I pulled the alternator and will get another tomorrow. Then I can at least take that off the list. I'll let you know how that goes tomorrow evening. Hopefully I'll have my little subaru back on the road becaused it's supposed to snow on saturday!
Thanks for the continued help. It suprises me how much people are willing to share knowledge on forums!
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Ok, I tested the Alternator yellow wire and yes, the light goes on. Does this necesserally mean the alt is bad?, or could something else be at fault and cause that circuit to be completed (or is that yellow wire never supposed to have power through it even with the ignition switch in the "on" position?)
I also pulled every fuse and relay in the two fuse box's and the power never goes out (with the alt plugged in and the ignition switch in the off position).
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In order to prove the alternator is bad you may be able to do a little test. Try placing a test light probe between ground and the yellow lead of the alternator (don't use your meter for this test). Leave everything connected with the ignition off. I suspect the light will glow on your alternator and not on your mother-in-laws. If that is the case, you need a new alternator.
You could be correct, that one of the diodes is shorted and not blocking the voltage to where it should be. I don't think it would be the MPFI diode because that one is forward biased with voltage coming from the alternator direction.
Ok I'll go check it. I did find the elusive diode and it still functions just fine so I can check that off the list.
While I was under the dash I noticed the green led on the ecu blinking, three blinks, pause, three blinks, pause, ....
Not sure if that indicates anything?
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Your welcome for the help.
Hopefully you can get another one. Keep us posted on the progress. I would use the same thread.
Well, out of curiosity I checked my mother in laws subaru to see what had power and what didn't and the yellow wire has power when the key is off as well. So now I'm thinking that maybe my new alt isn't bad (seemed unlikely anyway)
Looking at the wiring diagram I still suspect the mpfi diode, but I can't seem to find it. If anyone knows where it is (or at least what it looks like) I'd love to know. The diagram that was posted show's it right near the fuse box under the dash but I can't find anything that even looks close...
Still open for ideas on what to check next...
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Howdy! I've got a '03 outback with 32k miles on it. I've been hearing a low "chirping" noise like a cricket coming from the engine for a long time. It was a sporadic noise, so i didn't pay too much attention to it for a year or so. Well, now its getting much louder and obnoxious, so i took it back to the dealer and they said i needed a new idler pulley. The mechanic said not to drive it until it is replaced or it may seize. I was wondering if i should be worrying about other damage to the engine caused by this...like perhaps the timing belt being off? I haven't noticed the engine running hotter than usual.
No worries as long as it's still spinning, the idler is just for the serpantine belt and not the timing belt.
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Well then, it does indeed sound like the alternator is backfeeding the voltage to the other things.
Yea, I guess so? Well, I'll try taking back the alternator (should be a fun one, they don't like taking back alternators...) and I'll get another one.
Hopefully that will solve my problems.
Thanks for all the help, I'll let you know what happens...
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Ok. Lets pull fuse #16 and then see if you still have 12 volts on the yellow alternator lead. Make sure everything is hooked up normally except for the fuse.
Pulled the fuse and there is still 12 volts on the yellow wire.
and... although the radio and lights don't come on with fuse #16 pulled and the key in the off position, I could hear a few solinoids still click when I plugged the alternator in???
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Bruce,
Ok, the alternator looks good. I was wrong. Lets see how the voltage is being backfed. What was the number of the ignition fuse you pulled and the lights went out?
Edit: When you took the voltage readings was fuse #16 back in place or was it removed at the time? After rereading your previous posts it sounds like that was the fuse that killed the lights, correct?
The fuse (#16) was back in place when I took readings, and yes that was the one that killed the power (when key was in the off postion).
Note, the voltage for the leads I posted was with the alternator disconnected (just taking readings from the wires) did you want me to check them when everything is plugged in? (this would be when power is mysteriosly on and the key is in the off postion).
Ok - just did,
With the key in the off position and everything hooked up on the alternator there is 12 volts to the white, 12 volts to the yellow, and 1.75 volts to the black with white stripe (and also 12 volts to the main white lead that bolts on).
Looked for the diode again, started detaching wire harnesses looking for it and still no luck.
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Since you have a multimeter handy lets do some testing. I would like to know what the voltage is on all the leads to the alternator, along with the colors of the leads, with the ignition off, and everything connected normally.
Another test you can do is remove the alternator lead connections and set the meter to read ohms. Place the red probe lead of the meter, which should be connected to the + of the meter, and connect it to the output lead of the alternator where the white lead would normally tie to. Place the black lead of the meter to each of the other two small wire connection points on the alternator one at a time. Do you get a low ohm reading to either of the small wire connections from the output lead? If you do, then something is wrong in the alternator.
Ok Couger, here's what I got:
Voltage on the leads to the alternator
Main lead:
(two big white wires to single screw on terminal) 12.07 Volts
Plug:
White wire - 12.07 volts
Yellow - 0.00
Black w/white stripe - 0.00
Tested ohms (resistance) with positive on the main lead and negative to all other leads on the alt, all tested infinite ohm(no current through). So the alternator should be ok?
I tried to find the mpfi diode, but I can't locate it. The diagram says it's near the fuse box under the dash but I couldn't find anything (and I dug around for a long time). If anyone knows what this thing looks like I'd appreciate it. Diagram says it has two wires going to it, one yellow and one Lg (light green?).
any other ideas Couger?
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Wow, you guys are great. I'll try to take all the advice...
What I did now is pull fuses until the mystery power went out (alternator hooked up, ignition switch off). When I pulled the "ignition" fuse, everything went off. There is still power to the alternator, and when I turn the ignition switch on I get power like usual (minus things on the ignition circuit).
Looking at the wiring diagrams (thanks) the ignition fuse (fuse 16) is tied to the fuel pump relay, the mpfi control unit, "ALT2" circuit, ignition relay, and the A/T control unit.
It looks like the two leads to the alternator should have power at all times (as mentioned) so I still don't think the new alternator is bad (edit: realize that doesn't make sense, I guess that power is normal but the alt. could still be bad). Using a multimeter, the alternator is still only allowing current one direction so I think the diode is ok (I checked the one I pulled out and it was shot). So either the alternator went out and took something with it, or something else fried the old alt. I suspect something else fried the alt. and it's backfeeding power through it.
I'll see if I can find the mpfi Diode and I'll check that, I also would like to check the ignition relay but I can't seem to find out where it is?
I don't suspect the fuel pump relay or the A/T control unit but if someone think they are suspect I'll see if I can disconnect them.
Thanks for all the great help, I'm going out to the garage now to see what I can find.
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I own a 2000 OBW (Limited). I have noticed that with or without my snow tires on the car a low to mid speed vibration completely smooths out at high speeds. By low to mid I mean 30-60mph. Does anyone have any ideas?
It is not caused by poor balancing(as far as I can tell) or snow in the rim..The car has 106,000 miles with original struts, half-axles and rims. Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks in advance!
Wanton
You might have a bad spindle bearing. Jack up the car and see if you can wiggle any of the wheels in any direction.
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Sounds like we have a good one here. After reading the posts here are my thoughts on this.
First, the voltage you saw on the main alternator output lead with everything off, is normal. That lead ties to the positive battery post and it is the line that supplies all the current to charge the battery, which is why it is so large. There is a fusible link in the circuit also if I remember correctly.
I assume that the problem occurs when you tie the alternator's main output lead to the main battery wire, is that correct? If so, you may have an internal problem with the diode in the alternator that blocks voltage from backfeeding into the alternator. I would try another alternator since the problem occured after the new one was installed.
The voltage is actually on the "plug" (and the main output lead) and everything comes on when that is plugged in (even when the main lead is not disconnected off of the alternator). There are 3 wires that are in the plug, one is a larger white one that has power even when the ignition switch is off (and unplugged). So I'm guessing something is feeding power back through that. Maybe back through the dash warning light circuit? (since all the dash lights were coming on when the problem occured).
Tonight I'm going to pull fuses and see if I can isolate a circuit that is the culprit.
I'll see if I can test the diodes in the alternator too (the new and the old one).
Thanks again for all the help!
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Besides what everyone else has mentioned, take a look at the A/T (if is an automatic) and sniff the fluid. It should be a transparent red and not smell burnt.
Most of all take if for a test drive and feel for vibrations, slipping clutch (for manual), hard or slushy shifts (for automatic), rough engine, or pulling severely to one side or another (signs of front end damage).
Also ask if it has a clean title (it's not the end of the world if it doesn't, but it's worth less and you need to take a closer look if it does).
It's never a bad idea to have a compression check, if you can't do it yourself most shops will do it for around $50. This will give you an idea on how the engine is doing.
Good luck!
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Sounds like you just have air in the system that got in when you flushed the system (as mentioned before).
Sometimes it can be really hard to purge. I'm not sure about a 98 forester, but look for either a coolant hose on the top of the engine or a plug (sometimes they put purge plugs that are typically plastic) that you can loosen up and let the air out.
Another method is to run the engine with the radiator cap off and add water as the engine warms up and the thermostat opens up. sometimes it will burp a little out the radiator, but just keep adding water until its circulating and air stops bubbling out.
If it was doing fine before you flushed the radiator I wouldn't suspect a head gasket. If you were having prior problems of overheating and air in the coolent system then you might look into it.
It's very important that you don't overheat the engine, keep an eye on the temp and let it cool down if the gauge starts climbing or you feel that things are getting to hot, better safe than sorry.
weird sound from steering column
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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I've had the blinker "return" mechanism get hung up before, but that is usually pretty easy to spot. Like said before, either the rack or possibly something in the upper column bushing (dirt, etc.). Losing your steering can be a bad thing... hope you get it fixed!