91subaru-Bruce

I've had the blinker "return" mechanism get hung up before, but that is usually pretty easy to spot. Like said before, either the rack or possibly something in the upper column bushing (dirt, etc.). Losing your steering can be a bad thing... hope you get it fixed!

I'm starting to think it might be the blinker fluid or muffler bearings. Check those and let us know what you find

That is strange. Only thing I can think of is some kind of "vapor lock" from warming them up after being outside in the cold??? Weird. If it happens again, try releasing the gas cap to see if there is pressure built up.

Did they check the electric fan, relay, sending unit? Did they pressure test the cooling system? Is their any exhaust smell in the antifreeze? Coolent hoses in good condition (they will collapse sometimes if old). FYI, you should never remove the thermostat, that's a good way to damage an engine (especially in cold weather). The fact that the mechanic did this as a solution leads me to believe he doesn't fully understand the cooling system. my .02

It's a deal! Let me know if you find one.

I've been looking for a grey drivers side visor to fit my 91 legacy for ever! Seems the yards down here in vancouver never get anything. Let me know if you know where to find one (I'll even pay finders fee!).

That reminds me of when I bought my current subaru, the previous owner had pulled the interior lighting fuse because there was some "electrical problems" he told me. Took $500 off of the price... ended up being that switch! I just wonder how long he was driving it that way?

Yes, and thanks to everybody that pitched in.

You got it! It was that "new" alternator that was bad. Replaced it with another one tonight and it's running like a champ again! Thanks for keeping me from spending the next week testing relay's and diodes... Thanks again! Bruce

Even if it's extra work it'll be well worth the help and the piece of mind knowing that it's not the alternator! I tried to check my mother in laws sub but it has a different plug that doesn't allow me to tap into the yellow lead easily (with it plugged in). I'll check it if the new alt doesn't solve my problems... Looking at the wiring diagram, I was wanting to find out where the ignition relay is. If that was somehow bad it could be leaking power back through the circuit? Not sure where it is though...

For that price range (assuming american prices are similar) you could get a 97 or 98 legacy in pretty nice condition. You gain a little more leg room too! Or if you are partial to the early 90's styles I have a 91 with some minor electrical issues! I'm only 7 hours from vancouver B.C....

Ok, I pulled the alternator and will get another tomorrow. Then I can at least take that off the list. I'll let you know how that goes tomorrow evening. Hopefully I'll have my little subaru back on the road becaused it's supposed to snow on saturday! Thanks for the continued help. It suprises me how much people are willing to share knowledge on forums!

Ok, I tested the Alternator yellow wire and yes, the light goes on. Does this necesserally mean the alt is bad?, or could something else be at fault and cause that circuit to be completed (or is that yellow wire never supposed to have power through it even with the ignition switch in the "on" position?) I also pulled every fuse and relay in the two fuse box's and the power never goes out (with the alt plugged in and the ignition switch in the off position).

Ok I'll go check it. I did find the elusive diode and it still functions just fine so I can check that off the list. While I was under the dash I noticed the green led on the ecu blinking, three blinks, pause, three blinks, pause, .... Not sure if that indicates anything?

Well, out of curiosity I checked my mother in laws subaru to see what had power and what didn't and the yellow wire has power when the key is off as well. So now I'm thinking that maybe my new alt isn't bad (seemed unlikely anyway) Looking at the wiring diagram I still suspect the mpfi diode, but I can't seem to find it. If anyone knows where it is (or at least what it looks like) I'd love to know. The diagram that was posted show's it right near the fuse box under the dash but I can't find anything that even looks close... Still open for ideas on what to check next...

No worries as long as it's still spinning, the idler is just for the serpantine belt and not the timing belt.

Yea, I guess so? Well, I'll try taking back the alternator (should be a fun one, they don't like taking back alternators...) and I'll get another one. Hopefully that will solve my problems. Thanks for all the help, I'll let you know what happens...

Pulled the fuse and there is still 12 volts on the yellow wire. and... although the radio and lights don't come on with fuse #16 pulled and the key in the off position, I could hear a few solinoids still click when I plugged the alternator in???

The fuse (#16) was back in place when I took readings, and yes that was the one that killed the power (when key was in the off postion). Note, the voltage for the leads I posted was with the alternator disconnected (just taking readings from the wires) did you want me to check them when everything is plugged in? (this would be when power is mysteriosly on and the key is in the off postion). Ok - just did, With the key in the off position and everything hooked up on the alternator there is 12 volts to the white, 12 volts to the yellow, and 1.75 volts to the black with white stripe (and also 12 volts to the main white lead that bolts on). Looked for the diode again, started detaching wire harnesses looking for it and still no luck.

Ok Couger, here's what I got: Voltage on the leads to the alternator Main lead: (two big white wires to single screw on terminal) 12.07 Volts Plug: White wire - 12.07 volts Yellow - 0.00 Black w/white stripe - 0.00 Tested ohms (resistance) with positive on the main lead and negative to all other leads on the alt, all tested infinite ohm(no current through). So the alternator should be ok? I tried to find the mpfi diode, but I can't locate it. The diagram says it's near the fuse box under the dash but I couldn't find anything (and I dug around for a long time). If anyone knows what this thing looks like I'd appreciate it. Diagram says it has two wires going to it, one yellow and one Lg (light green?). any other ideas Couger?

Wow, you guys are great. I'll try to take all the advice... What I did now is pull fuses until the mystery power went out (alternator hooked up, ignition switch off). When I pulled the "ignition" fuse, everything went off. There is still power to the alternator, and when I turn the ignition switch on I get power like usual (minus things on the ignition circuit). Looking at the wiring diagrams (thanks) the ignition fuse (fuse 16) is tied to the fuel pump relay, the mpfi control unit, "ALT2" circuit, ignition relay, and the A/T control unit. It looks like the two leads to the alternator should have power at all times (as mentioned) so I still don't think the new alternator is bad (edit: realize that doesn't make sense, I guess that power is normal but the alt. could still be bad). Using a multimeter, the alternator is still only allowing current one direction so I think the diode is ok (I checked the one I pulled out and it was shot). So either the alternator went out and took something with it, or something else fried the old alt. I suspect something else fried the alt. and it's backfeeding power through it. I'll see if I can find the mpfi Diode and I'll check that, I also would like to check the ignition relay but I can't seem to find out where it is? I don't suspect the fuel pump relay or the A/T control unit but if someone think they are suspect I'll see if I can disconnect them. Thanks for all the great help, I'm going out to the garage now to see what I can find.

You might have a bad spindle bearing. Jack up the car and see if you can wiggle any of the wheels in any direction.

The voltage is actually on the "plug" (and the main output lead) and everything comes on when that is plugged in (even when the main lead is not disconnected off of the alternator). There are 3 wires that are in the plug, one is a larger white one that has power even when the ignition switch is off (and unplugged). So I'm guessing something is feeding power back through that. Maybe back through the dash warning light circuit? (since all the dash lights were coming on when the problem occured). Tonight I'm going to pull fuses and see if I can isolate a circuit that is the culprit. I'll see if I can test the diodes in the alternator too (the new and the old one). Thanks again for all the help!

Besides what everyone else has mentioned, take a look at the A/T (if is an automatic) and sniff the fluid. It should be a transparent red and not smell burnt. Most of all take if for a test drive and feel for vibrations, slipping clutch (for manual), hard or slushy shifts (for automatic), rough engine, or pulling severely to one side or another (signs of front end damage). Also ask if it has a clean title (it's not the end of the world if it doesn't, but it's worth less and you need to take a closer look if it does). It's never a bad idea to have a compression check, if you can't do it yourself most shops will do it for around $50. This will give you an idea on how the engine is doing. Good luck!

Sounds like you just have air in the system that got in when you flushed the system (as mentioned before). Sometimes it can be really hard to purge. I'm not sure about a 98 forester, but look for either a coolant hose on the top of the engine or a plug (sometimes they put purge plugs that are typically plastic) that you can loosen up and let the air out. Another method is to run the engine with the radiator cap off and add water as the engine warms up and the thermostat opens up. sometimes it will burp a little out the radiator, but just keep adding water until its circulating and air stops bubbling out. If it was doing fine before you flushed the radiator I wouldn't suspect a head gasket. If you were having prior problems of overheating and air in the coolent system then you might look into it. It's very important that you don't overheat the engine, keep an eye on the temp and let it cool down if the gauge starts climbing or you feel that things are getting to hot, better safe than sorry.