Fatenarr

About 2.5-3 years old.

Hi everyone my 2009 outback has thrown the p0420 code and is idling rough while at red lights and fuel consumption has gone up lately. I haven't replaced the sensors since purchasing the car at 77,000 miles and it's now at 150,000. Does anyone know what brand the oem sensor is that was originally used?

Hi everyone my 2009 outback has thrown the p0420 code and is idling rough while at red lights and fuel consumption has gone up lately. I haven't replaced the sensors since purchasing the car at 77,000 miles and it's now at 150,000. Does anyone know what brand the oem sensor is that was originally used?

I keep getting a misfire on cylinder 4 and I put in new plugs and wires and I'm still getting a misfire under load typically going uphill. Next I'll try the coil. My main question is how do I know which cylinder is # 4 in case I need to do an injector?

I have a 96 Subaru Legacy L ej22e and I'm looking for a link or the actual part number for an oem clutch for this vehicle? All I seem to come across online is exedy which is what I just installed and has a bad chatter at take off.

I have a 96 Subaru Legacy L and recently installed an exedy clutch and a new flywheel and now the clutch chatters bad out of first gear. One mechanic told me it's because I used an aftermarket clutch and the other told me he'd have to take it apart to know what's happening. Anybody know what's causing this? Also, if I pull the motor what are some things for me to look for that might be the culprit? I'm guessing I'll just need to put a whole new clutch in and flywheel

Hi everyone I'm having trouble with my 96' Subaru Legacy L hill holder ever since I put my new clutch in. It feels like it has a lot of drag now with the new clutch when starting out in first gear and I even slip the clutch to get it going. This only happens in first gear or reverse whether I'm on flat ground or not. So my question is how to disconnect the hill holder all together or am I supposed to adjust it somehow with the new clutch? Thanks

How do I adjust it? Are talking about the clutch cable? I bought an exedy clutch kit with flywheel. It just isn't grabbing properly starting off in first.

What happens is when I'm at a stop I put it in first and as I give gas and let off the clutch the clutch seems to be slipping and than it makes the car sort of shudder/shake. It happens around 1500-2000 rpm in first gear. Once I get the car moving and I'm over 2000 rpm is smooths out and all other gears are fine. I can also smell the clutch when I'm sitting at a stop and start up a steep hill. I've been driving a manual for 15 years so I know it's not the way I'm driving. I've also tried letting the clutch out many different ways and have tried giving more and less gas but it just keeps happening. It's a brand new clutch, flywheel and throw bearing. Not sure why it seems to be slipping

I pulled the motor to do various things and also put a new exedy clutch and flywheel and now the car sort of shakes and studders out of first gear and while in reverse as if the clutch is slipping or something. It's perfect once out of first or reverse, it's just when I'm taking off from a stop. What could be causing this?

I am pulling my engine tomorrow to replace the clutch and oil separator plate and was wondering if I should replace the rear crankshaft seal or not?

I purchased a new metal oil separator plate with new screws and one of the new screws that came is black not silver like the rest and it is the only one with what looks like either red loc tite or anti seize on it. I'm wondering where this particular screw goes as the kit came with no instructions.

I found a plate on eBay that comes with screws. And are you referring to the wrist pin access plate o-ring on the opposite side?

Has anyone replaced their oil separator plate? I will be pulling the motor and servicing the clutch and separator plate but I'm not sure if the new metal oil separator plate just bolts on and that's it or if there's gaskets, o-rings, or sealant involved in installing the new one? Thanks

I guess I don't quite understand why it is so diffficult to replace the main seal and get a good seal with the new one? Everyone seems to be afraid to touch it but it just seems like another seal to me?

I plan on pulling my engine to replace my oil separator plate with a new metal one and also doing the clutch. My question is....do I replace the main seal while the engine is out? My car has 255,000 miles on it.

Or should I just get a kit that comes with a new flywheel?

How important is it to resurface the flywheel?

I'm wondering if anyone knows the name or part number of that o ring on the back of the passenger head? Mine is leaking oil and I'd like to replace it at the same time I do cam seals. Also, is it the same I ring as the one behind the oil pump?

I checked for gases using a block test which breaths the rad fumes and turns the liquid yellow of gas is present. When the temp ticks up its because the engine suddenly blew half gallon of coolant out the overflow. It then only goes down if I replenish coolant. This was the first time it has happened but it happens twice in two days and both times I was on mostly flat ground going 85-90 on cruise control across Montana. When I got to the mountain passes between Washington and Montana my car was fine but I was also going at much lower speeds though. Heads were not resurfaced as I can't recall ever overheating my car but am wishing I would have done it now...I used a very nice three layered metal Felpro gasket.

I have an 09 outback with 140,000 miles and did HG at 119,00 miles. I was driving to Montana the other day and while driving at 85-90 mph on cruise control for an extended period my car would purge a lot of coolant into the overflow and spray out the top of the overflow cap while driving. Luckily it's winter and I didn't overheat too bad but the temp guage was a few ticks higher than normal til I pulled over and topped it off. Since doing HG we haven't had any trouble until this recent episode. The car has only ever done this at 85 mph on cruise for an hour or more. I've tested for exhaust gas in the coolant and it came up clean. I'm not sure if this is a HG issue or what? I put a new timing kit, thermostat, and water pump in at time of HG. Not sure why it does this?

I have a 96 Subaru Legacy L that I will be doing a lot of work on here soon. It has 255,000 miles and needs cam seals, valve cover gaskets, crank seal, and timing kit. I am thinking I'll pull the motor to get at the oil separator behind the fly wheel because I suspect it's the original plastic one and is leaking oil. My main question is, while I have the motor out should I just go ahead and service the clutch? I'm second owner and have put 65,000 on this clutch and I'm not sure when it was last serviced. If rather just deal with it now if it makes sense to do so. I'm not sure the signs of an aging clutch that could or should be replaced? Thanks

So if i don't pull the motor is there a certain way to determine if the separator plate is in fact leaking? Will I see evidence of it in a certain spot? Lets say it is leaking and I pull the motor to fix it, is there anything else worth doing while the engine is out? Thanks for all the advice. I will be degreasing the engine today to see where the oil is coming from exactly.

Sorry accidentally posted my last comment before I was finished. So does it make any sense to pull the heads in order to machine them and the cylinders and also do rings and bearings even if the HG aren't leaking? It is also losing coolant slowly somewhere but I did a block test and there were no gases in the coolant. I'm just trying to nip everything in the bud all in one shot as I don't have a lot of free time for stuff like this. And if the motor is out I can do the oil separator plate. Oh and my car is a manual and it is due for a basic tune up.

Thanks for the reply. Great advice. It really is a smooth running car besides its occasional misfires. I'd rather go the route you've suggested and not pull the motor if I don't have to. But like you said that oil separator is probably leaking by now. Does it make any sense to pull the motor and h