maroon_subi
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Posts posted by maroon_subi
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Good luck! Just remember to not use ceramic pads on a vehicle that isn't supposed to have ceramic pads. Semi-matalic pads help remove heat from from the rotor, and if the vehicle wasn't designed for ceramic, that can very easily cause the overheating issue and warpage.
Not a lot of people realize that.
Ceramic pads are put on high end cars because they don't experience brake fade like semi-matalic's do
How would you know if the vehicle is not supposed to use ceramic pads? I have always been told to buy ceramic, so this is a first for me.
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Okay thanks for your opinion!
I read an article Gear Heads Anonymous by Chris Nelson and he said the same thing. I do think I will try the Green Stuff 2000 series EBC brake pads at least.
I post my results at a later time
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^ +1
Check out the front brakes and make sure everything is moving freely and nothing is frozen. But yeah rotors are most likely the issue.
By frozen, are you talking about the calipers not functioning properly?
And would you all suggest a certain kind or brand of rotors/brakes? Would it be better to do drilled/slotted/both or just solid ones?
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I had my exhaust replaced from Header down and I only put 1 Cat on with 0 resonators and a high flow muffler. My CEL stays on and there is a lack of power as well as god awful drone. Does the EJ22 require 2 cats? Do resonators create back pressure? I am finally getting close to having the money to get it fixed, but I want to know what to get so it is right this time. Please help me....
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I have a 2001 Subaru Legacy Outback with 170,000 miles that is having violent shuddering problems when braking and a barely noticeable shudder when at speeds above 55-60 mph. A mechanic friend said that the R&P was broke (it was, very badly) and that the reason I only felt the shudder when braking was due to the R&P violently moving when the pads were pressing on the rotor.
I replaced the R&P, both outer tie rods ends, and steering pump back in July 2016. I also recently had the transmission and axles drained and refilled in August 2016. The axles were put on December 2015. (I should mention that the R&P was an absolute Son of a Biscuit and after 2 alignments from Free Service (who I will never use again), the steering wheel is not exactly aligned.)
After the fix in July, the shudder is much, much, MUCH better but it is still there. I am thinking that I need to replace the rotors and pads, but the previous dealer replaced both sets of rotors and pads less than a year ago. I am not sure if driving and braking on a basically severed R&P would cause the rotors and pads to warp between October 2015 and July 2016. But the dealer is also a crook, so they rotors and pads could have not been new.
The shudder when braking is mostly in the steering wheel (which shakes pretty bad), but sometimes I can feel it in the seat. My passengers say they do not feel the shudder at all. The shudder lessens as the vehicle slows and it is very rhythmic when you are almost stopped. This leads me to think that the rotors and pads are warped. But could it be the wheel hubs?
Any suggestions?
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***** The first thing we need to know is the current check engine light code. Have it read and post it here. Don't post the diagnosis or what someone says the code means - give us the exact code.
P0420 is the catalyst inefficiency code that usually starts debacles like this. I'll assume that's the issue, but definitely post the code here.
1. the rattle - i'm uncertain about that. seems like the shop should fix it but "fix it" might mean a whole new muffler/system $$$$ if you annoy them and they're not wanting to diagnose/address.
2. for the Check Engine light - you only need one converter. the system doesn't check catalyst efficiency until the car is up to operating temps.
second converter functions when warm. the first converter is a pre-converter and intended to mitigate emissions during the warm up period - when the O2 sensors are not even in use yet.
so it depends how you look at it.
A. the system was designed with two converters - a preconverter for warm up period, one for nominal ops. but both are not "needed" at all. the car was "designed" with perfect clear coat - it probably doesn't have that either.
B. the computer/check engine light/emissions only require one converter to work properly - the rear one.
on stock systems installing a $5 spacer between the rear O2 sensor and the exhaust often gets rid of the check engine light. easy, cheap, and it sometimes works. i dont' know what's going on here with all the noise, custom exhaust, etc - but for $5 and a few minutes it would take on a new exhaust (no rust), i'd install one of those immediately. this issue is so common i've got a pile of those extenders in my garage.
a simple way to test if exhaust is causing issues or not is to disconnect the exhaust manifold from the engine and take a drive.
if the issue goes away - it's the exhaust
if the issues don't go away - it's not the exhaust.
exhaust should not cause any issues at all unless it's clogged.
vibration in drive at stop is usually due to aftermarket front CV shafts. replace the offending axle. always use Subaru axles (green inner cups). reboot and they always last the life of the vehicle. replacement is a waste and problematic.
get a used one from www.car-part.com and reboot it with Subaru boots.
The Vibration/Surging/Revving did not happen until after I replaced the Exhaust. It happened again on my way home, so I checked the RPM gauge and nothing was moving. The engine sounds and the car feels like it is revving, similar to when you are on a hill in a 5 speed and press the gas to keep from going backwards. The sensation is in short bursts. It will do it for maybe a couple of seconds the quit and continue on that way.
I had the axles replaced by a Subaru shop a couple of months ago though.
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I just had Advanced Auto check my computer. The code that pulled up was indeed P0420. The computer said something about "bank 1". The gentleman said my O2s were working, otherwise the system wouldnt show up. He also stated that the rattle in the muffler could be some left over metal parts from something.
Im going to try and disconnect the.exhaust manifold tommorrow and see what happens. I am also going to go to a different shop and have.them.test that cat again. It could be possible the cat is a no go and I didnt watch the original shop check it.
Should I take it back to the muffler shop or go to a different one?
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I put a Flowmaster on my 2001 Legacy Outback (I am not sure what series) and that is the only part of my exhaust that rattles. It is driving me INSANE. Does the shape of the muffler affect the sound that comes out of the exhaust? My car sounds throaty until it gets to the muffler, then it just sounds like a darn fart can
I bought a new header for mine for less than $130. Well worth it.
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Make sure that the caliper BOLTs are good and tightening. I have an Escort that bolt came clear off.
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So I need to put another cat on the car. Simple enough.
As far as the O2 sensors are concerned, what should I do to "unfool" them? Replace all of them? My husband and I could only find 2 O2's neither of which were on the old or new header. I am pretty sure that the exhaust is causing the issue with almost stalling at stops while in Drive.
I am not sure what the CEL is. Check Engine Light?
Would any of this fix the rattle in the muffler? I was thinking that sense the Flowmaster is elongated, the air was expanding and then having issues getting back into the end pipe. Would a cylindrical muffler fix the rattle?
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Are there people that live in East TN on here? I am a new Subi owner and just wanted to introduce myself
I want to learn as much as possible about my new car, so any advice you can give would be great. All the Do's and Dont's
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Hey everyone.
I have a 01 Legacy Outback sedan that I just replaced the entire exhaust. The header is Emusa brand with unequal lengths. The shop only put one cat on and a Flowmaster muffler. I believe the pipe width is either 2.25'' or 2.5". The car has an awesome deep sound until you get to the muffler, and then it RATTLES. I took it back to the shop to have the hangers checked and they told me that the rattle was from so much air flow and that a resonator would help with the rattle. The real reason I had the exhaust replaced was because the Check Engine light came on, and Advanced said that it was either a bad cat or O2 sensor. The muffler shop told me that my O2 sensors were fine, and like I said, they replaced one of the Cats and deleted the other BUT when I had them check the computer, they said that Subaru's require 2 cats. My check engine light came back on after the reset and now it is shaking like crazy at stops with the car in Drive.
Three questions:
1. What will get the rattle out of my exhaust?
2. Does Subaru require 2 Cats or do I need to replace my O2s?
3. How do I fix the shaking at stops with the car in drive?
I am including the link for the Header so that you all can see exactly what I bought.
I have not gotten to do a lot of maintenance to the car yet. (I got excited with Income Tax, I know.)
I have replaced the following:
Air filter
Cabin air filter
PCV valve
Fuel Filter (Octane Booster also)
Synthetic Oil Change
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Brake shudder and small vibration when driving
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted · Edited by maroon_subi
I took my subaru to my mechanic friend and got the rotors turned for $15 a pop + labor. He said the brakes looked brand new. So problem fixed for $105!! Wooh!!
I am guessing that when the dealer relpaced the rotors and pads, they did not form them to each other. It probabaly sat untill every test driver slammed on the brakes.