edian727
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Posts posted by edian727
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so i just started at a lube shop last week. we didnt have 75w-90 today so my manager had me put 75w-140 in the trans of a 95 impreza, awd, manual 1.8l. I'm still pretty upset about it. is this gonna hurt the car?
IDK if he told the customer, but my guess is not. if this is really gonna hurt the car im gonna have to do something about it. kinda feel like i should anyway. how can you think its ok to put the wrong oil in without even knowing if its gonna work right or not? because i have no idea, and im sure he doesnt either.
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you got it d8usti5n. its not that saying do a ej swap is a bad response, in fact i think the response's were pretty good, just need less negativity. and more information. i decided not to because im not gonna do custom rods and pistons, and the fact is the wrist pin just isnt capable of what i was expecting. TBH the most productive way for me to go is to just fix the oil pump seal, and be happy. if i really want power then ill swap a eg or ej in. witch i would like to do someday....
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I've been thinking about a ej20 or destroked ej25 when im done with college. i have a lot of support through the college for machining, balancing ect. but thats all in the future now.
your right i cant find any micky mouse gaskets for the er27, all of them that say they fit are for 4-cylinder's. gonna look into Hylomer, thats for the tip GD. im probably gonna measure the front seal and go down to the local bearing shop and get one with a double seal too, seems smart since they like to fail. i havent hammered the lifters, they only ticked when cold for the last couple months, but when i got home just before the last oil change it was ticking pretty bad, and got worse after the oil change. i've put about 7k on this car, and i have no idea how well it was treated the last few years, but it got passed between 5 people and not 1 changed the title over so im just gonna replace the lifters. contemplating HG's as well, i loose a little coolant, but barely. I've read just retorque the stock head bolts but do one more round at 10 ft lbs more then the service manual, is this right? id hate to break a headbolt that i cant find replacements for.
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ok guys, i found all this information very useful, even if some of it is so negative its hard to not ignore it. but the fact is GD does know what he talking about, though i cant seem to find any subaru rebuild difficulties, but im gonna stop by my local independent subaru mechanic and talk to him about it. Subaru's are my cars, and i am going to rebuilding and building engines for them, period.
if the rods cant take 250 then its totally pointless. im just gonna reseal it, replace the lifters and go. only thing that sucks is i cant find tensioner for the left side timing belt, its the only thing i cant find other then head bolts and any bottom end replacement bolts. i wanted to do this more for fun then trying to get power. i can drop in a ej thats makes more stock then the ER27 has a dream to make, im aware of that. i would swap the whole drivetrain from a donor car, but i cant have anymore cars on my property right now. well as i said i have time and patience, just cant have a car torn down with no plan or the GF will oust it.
i dont mean to sound like a wongleflute, or like im ignoring everything people are saying, but just saying you cant do this, its pointless, without providing me with any information as to why isnt helping at all. it just makes me wanna dig in, and fight. the fact though is i love this car, and im gonna do right by it. theres a lot of knowledge here for sure, if there wasnt i wouldnt be here asking questions, but all to often the response is down right rude. if someone wants to do something, and you think its a bad idea, treating them like they are stupid children is not the correct path. they are more likely to dig in, get halfway in, realize why you said it was stupid(even though you barely mentioned why, if at all) and quit. but instead you could actually go through why you think its a bad idea, tell them you think its a bad idea, and let them decide. its called common courtesy, its called respect, and im sorry but respect is not earned, everyone deserves some.
again thanks for your response's and a extra thank you to be people who actually went into more detail about what the issues are, i knew the heads were bad, but i though they were slightly better, and i thought the ea82 turbo rods would be better then they are.
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so heres the deal, i cannot afford a swap, and i am capable of rebuilding the engine. if im not gonna rebuild it i guarantee ill have to get rid of it before i can get another engine in. i could swap to a ej pretty cheaply, but in the end i wont be happy. no way to afford a non-wrecking yard engine. but if im rebuilding it, i can spend time to get it put together, and spread the cost out more. to be honest my plan would be to rebuild with best parts i can, drop it back in with stock harness, ecu, and no turbo. the slowly build a proper turbo set-up. im not worried about blowing the motor trying to get things right, monitor your emp, egt's, iat, boost, and all the other engine vitals, and thats gonna tell you whats going on with how close to proper turbo size you are. also the td05's have tons of turbine housing available, lots of different intake sides, plus its a talon turbo so lots of different aftermarket options available too. and when i go to a standalone it would be tuned without turbo first, and not to mention i have to use a myriad of different parts, like new injectors, throttle body, fpr, a crank position sensor, a different distributor signal, i would like to go away from MAF, ect. witch will make parts much cheaper, as they will probably be GM parts.
but to be honest, i wish more people would be supportive, its like pulling teeth. i only want 250-300, witch seems reasonable enough. i wish i knew if it was, i know people have pushed the ea82, and i should be able to attain close to 1.5x that. but i guess the path i choose will be the one people never support. its sad really. so is the advice then to just fix the oil pump and lifters and leave it? i mean the ToD is fixable, but if im in there why shouldn't i rebuild it? why shouldnt i try to turbo it? it can be tuned better then stock, and use parts that are still available. im not a child, im capable, intelligent, and take my time, all things that actually mean i can do it right, change things if or when i need to. this isnt like im gonna throw it together in a few weeks and think i can make some 400+ hp. o well. maybe i shouldn't even try.
its not like used parts are bad parts, thats just pure BS. if the turbo has problems i can rebuild it. theres lots of used turbo placed on top of newly rebuilt motors, hmm... good used turbo for free, or pay 600 for a rebuilt one or 1000+ for a new one. budgeting tells me that new turbo is absurd, i can rebuild the free turbo and have a rebuilt turbo for a lot less then 600. i also plan to use junkyard intercooler, radiator, throttle body, rods, and pistons at least. i dont know why this is bad, its not. i can test the parts, i know how, and have the tools to do so. letting good parts get crushed is bad, not saving them and using them. i guess i just dont understand much at all....
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So my xt6 has developed the Tick of Death. also my buddy is gonna give me his old td05-16g. im seriously considering putting that td05 on the er27, with turbo ea82 rods, pistons, valve's and valve springs, i can find these pretty cheap at my local wreckers. also seen a HEI distributor conversion, witch will probably happen since no1 has made the turbo/xt6 distributor pick-up work with megasquirt, and i know the hei will.
anyone know if there are aftermarket head bolts, or any bottom end bolts available for the ea82 or er27?(same just 1.5x as many on the er27) or if they ea82 turbos use different head bolts? a good company that can make a custom MLS head gasket? how much power the stock turbo ea82 rods and pistons can handle? im hoping i can do 15-18 psi and somewere around 250-300 at the flywheel. o and maybe a uprated clutch that'll fit the xt6 input shaft? or is it worth trying to find a rx trans? i wont give up 4wd or awd, lol.
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10w-40 or 10-30 is what the comp said when i worked at a lube shop, i run delo15w-40 in my er27, and ive known a few people to run that in ea81's and ea82's. i think 10-30 is light unless its cold or you just rebuilt it and it has tight tolerences.
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perfect! im going to install a 2-way switch on the fp ground, and the second leg will be the ground for the horn relay. so if the switch is off and someone tries to start it the horn will go off. thanks guys, i really appreciate it.
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thanks for the advice, so the key situation is like the old hondas? i knew someone who used to drive his honda to a parking lot and hunt for hondas the key matched, a surprising number. luckily he has moved on from that life. if i put a switch between the ignition and main relay that'll work right? should prevent any power from reaching the relay, and keep everything off.
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so im a little bit slow sometimes, if i can match the number from the column in the wreckers i got new keys! thanks guys!
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i want to replace the key with a different one, the thief has my keys and will probably try to steal it again. unfortunatly thats the situation....right now its sitting with no battery so they cant take it.
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so i left my keys in my car last night, like a retard. My amazing girlfriend caught someone in my car and most assurdly the reason i still have a xt6. now i only had 1 key for the car, and even if i had a spare i would still want to change it. door locks too. there is a xt at my local yard but the likelyness it has a key is very low. im hoping the ignition switch and door locks are the same as a gl or loyale. just the ignition switch, i know the columns are different, or assume, but would be very suprised if they were the same. Im headed to the wreckers tomorrow.
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titles says 89 but its a MY 88, pobably sold in 88 too. legacy struts in the front with forester hubs(one is a 2nd gen lgt i need to replace), and rear's are loyale wagon. its a little high but im gonna get 90's rear brakes on and a e-brake again before i worry about that. im pretty sure im a member at subaruxt.com theres just not a lot of activity so i dont tend to go there lol. im pretty sure thats where i found to use legacy struts and loyale wagon struts to sit even, and it does.
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no offense taken. cl can be sketchy, ive had a few good deals and a few not so good deals.
so far this has been the best place to find accurate info on these cars, and people who are passionate about it. herse a pic of my xt6, just cuz lol
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hey gary, i believe we have been e-mailing back and forth. i understand your cautiousness about long distance cl purchase's. thats why i use paypal, it helps secure the deal for both parties involved. I'm here on the forum, and you can call me to chat in person if it makes you feel more comfortable. Im a honest person. we've had a few encounters here on the forum. your name is one of the one's ive seen a lot, and always with accurate knowledge.
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i ran into a problem with the diff. lock recently on my xt6. it would just be locked(and mine was) and the light would stay on. i switched the vac. lines and it unlocked and wouldnt lock, so vacuum. problem. maybe part of your problem too. idk where the feed for the light is but it didnt turn off when the switch was off and the diff was still locked so somewhere in the mechanism.
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that snowmobile rack is just amazing.
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got my diff lock to unlock, after 3 days, fml. had to witch the lines around and put it in lock, guess im gonna replace all my vacuum lines next, wooo....
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i agree with numbchux. probably a crack in the insulation in the main positive wire and its corrodes. I've had corroded wire stop giving power but when i came back later it would power on to the same point before it shut off, just like is happening to you. great thing about subaru is the wire is so short, cheap and easy to replace.
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if you keep looking for a xt6 you'll find one. good luck
. I love mine. Lots of work and some hard to find parts. Nice xt btw. I always buy 2 fuel filters and keep a 5 gallons of fuel on me. i change the fuel filter fill it up with gas, run it dry, change filter and fill-up with the gas i have on hand. always worked like a charm. im betting it'll be a fuel filter. gas goes bad relatively fast and it still burns just leaves lots of crap in your filter and honestly the whole system. i do have lots of wiring issues in my xt6 so its a good idea to look that over, too. -
225 50/16 is whats on it, must be 225 are a little wide. i really like this tire size so im gonna go lower offset(eventually), great to know 205's in 50 and 55 profile fit, super common and cheap tires.
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my xt6 has a center diff lock thats worth noting. as far as i know the 4-cyl xt's did not have this. that gives you awd and the option to switch to real 4wd. no low range in these tho, i believe you need a rx transmission to get awd and hi/low range, and i dont think they had a lockable center diff.
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theres a wealth of knowledge, thank you. i did switch the hubs over to ej stuff(i have 2-pot forester brakes) as i didnt feel comfortable with the way the ej stuff fit the xt6 hub. definatly go with ea81 tie-rod ends, i had stock ones and the alignment guy couldn't get it straight just close. also worth noting, i have 02-03 wrx wheels, and the fit great except front tires rub on the front and back at full turn, and the rears touch the springs at full up travel. no noticable wear on tires but id recommend a lower offset wheels if you plan on changing them. i had to to clear the bigger brakes. the offset on those is 53 and 6.5 inches wide for reference.
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I'm wnting to do the same thing on my xt6. I ought the car with bad air-ride and converted it myself, legacy sturtts and spring in the front loyale wagon(4wd) in the back, sits nice and level just way to high. I'm going to experitment with different springs to see how it handles, I'll let you know how it goes. unless you get there first, lol. looking forward to seeing this happen
75w-140 in a 5mt
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted · Edited by edian727
thanks guys. especially you GD. all of our gl-5 syn. has limited slip aditive in it. im not sure exactly what kind of additive subaru uses though. i personally use redline 75-90 ns. its specially made for trans axles with hypoid gears. heard lots of subaru guys love it.