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Dogbrain

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Dogbrain last won the day on June 1 2016

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  • Location
    Sacramento
  • Referral
    The Google
  • Biography
    I like kerosene lanterns, trashy bars, fast bicycles, hot yoga, smart girls, impractically large firearms and the kind of shenanigans that tend to occur when you start playing with accelerant.
  • Vehicles
    1989 Subaru DL wagon

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  1. Found it and unplugged it. My guess is that the switch is broken/stuck but for now the annoying sound is no more, just in time to install the new speakers!
  2. I definitely thought about removing the chime, but it's also a nice learning problem since it has a low penalty for failure. I tried wiggling the ignition, but it wasn't loose. It doesn't seem like the wiring for that chime system is actually in the Haynes, but I assume there's a switch in the ignition that gets depressed when you insert the key.
  3. The chime starts dinging every time I open the door, whether the keys are in the ignition or not. I'd like to take a run at fixing it this weekend when I install the new speakers. I bought the Haynes manual and there are some good descriptions of the wiring systems, but I can't quite figure out where I need to focus. I assume that the chime would go off if the door was open with the keys in the ignition, so I'm thinking there's an issue with the switch/relay associated with the key/ignition interface. Obviously the door switch works, because the chime stops when I close it. It also dings when I turn the car on without my seat belt buckled and the seatbelt indicator lights up at the same time so that end of things is ok. Do I just find the switch(button?) at the key, and the relay it's connected too and test/replace them?
  4. Hi everyone. Sometimes when I start my 1989 DL there is a clicking that goes goes away when I rev the engine just a bit. It seems to stop completely once the engine has been running for a few minutes. I would describe is as a light but noticeable clicking/tapping. There's no difference in the way the engine runs when it happens. Any thoughts on how to determine the cause?
  5. Nice! That's exactly what I need. For a 1989 DL wagon it's the 1600 & 1800 version, correct?
  6. Well I got the oil changed and did new plugs, wires, and cap/rotor. I think it runs slightly better, but I haven't been able to drive it much yet. The good news is that the transmission fluid is bright pink and clean. The thermostat looks pretty new, and the belts are in great shape. I tried to attach a couple pictures of the belts for a second option but I can't seem to get them to load. They look pretty new. The bummer was how dirty and low the oil was. Only three liters, and a lot of particulate. It clogged the screen on my funnel when I was emptying the drain basin. At least it's got clean oil now. There was also a lot of oil around the pan, and sprayed onto the bottom of the engine, so I'm going to keep an eye on the level. Hopefully there wasn't much wear/damage. I went poking around in the back and found the original manual and a Subaru toolkit. There's also an Interflator 200 air compressor that plugs into the cigarette lighter. I tested it out and it's slow but it works. The seller has some brake pads in a storage unit and I'll be getting them this weeks. The squeal in the rear drums is back and louder than before so my next project is a brake job. I don't exactly know what to do, is there a tutorial somewhere?
  7. I don't know much about the difference in the Subarus, but my '89 DL wagon has some trim along the rain gutter. The 1A tower did fit around it, but I had to line it up to miss the clips that hold the trim on, and it was still a tight fit. However, they are on and very sturdy.
  8. The yakima 1A raingutter towers are very sturdy and lockable, I've had them on two cars now. It's a much sturdier set-up than the factory mounts on my newer mazda wagon.
  9. Thanks! I will add those to the list and start the googling.
  10. I'm about to change the oil in my new-to-me 1989 DL wagon. Right now it runs well and I'd like to keep it that way, so I thought I'd ask about a tune up. 1) Aside from spark plugs, wires, distributor cap/rotor, and air filter, what else would you look at? 2) I'm not sure when the transmission fluid was changed, is that somewhat beginner friendly work? Can I check it to see how dirty it is? 3) Is there any other maintenance that you would want to get ahead of, rather than waiting for something to break? Thanks for reading! -Dogbrain
  11. Thanks! I looked at those, I'll check the mounting depth and use that as a guide. I was asking around and a friend is giving me a set of 5.25''s and a set of 4"s so if I can't get them mounted I'll at least have something to gauge the clearance.
  12. I'm going for a minimalist stereo set up. I plan to install a bluetooth ready amp under the seat and skip the head unit/tweeker bait altogether. I'd like to find some speakers that will fit the factory spaces in the front door and rear hatch, but after pulling off the front paneling there doesn't seem to be much depth. I've looked at shallow mount 6.5 inch speaker and most of them need about two inches, Will that fit behind the factory panels? Has anyone had luck installing speakers in the doors? I also thought about doing 4 in with a bracket, then putting 6.5's in the hatch.
  13. Well the brake squeal corrected itself after a few drives. I'm about to change the oil and give it a little tune up. All in all it drives great and I'm excited to have it.
  14. Hi Everyone, I picked up an '89 DL wagon from a friend of a friend. It's only got 130k original miles on it and honestly runs better than the (recently rear-ended and totaled while parked) 2003 mazda protege 5 that it's replacing. I plan to run it all over the Sierra Nevada mountains this summer, hauling bikes and backpacks and dogs and people. The only current issue is that one or both of the rear drums squeal when you first get going. It's pretty harmonic, more of a tone than a shrill scream/grind. It goes away once they get warm, but even when cold it doesn't happen during gentle neighborhood driving with stops signs on every block. It's only when you say, try to stop from 35+ mph for a changing light. Do you think this is a simple as replacing the pads? Is it possible that there's an alignment issue in the brake assembly? Either way, I'd like to take the opportunity to start doing some of my own wrenching. I'm not completely green, I've done brakes and oil changes and some other minor work to an old jeep cherokee I owned years ago. I also own some fancy bicycles and do all my own work. That said, I'm definitely respectful of the learning curve and I want to start reading/watching. What are some good references for an aspiring home mechanic? -Dogbrain
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