Letters909

Thanks guys, I could have been more specific in my post but, I've got some alloys from an Isuzu trooper. So hopefully the offset won't be an issue

Hey guys, I just started the process of redrilling my hubs to make them 6lug and I was wondering if I'll run into issues if I leave my car at stock height. Or if anyone has tire size suggestions for a 15x6 rim that might fit (Im not opposed to cutting out the fenders as much as needed seeing as their already rusted to he'll)

Do you have a link? I found one for turning the 7 pin din into aux, but nothing mentions the 8 pin connector thats on my radio

the radio its self doesnt have any way to switch to another input, it can only switch between am and fm

Thanks for all the help guys, anyone have any info on the connector in the picture I put up? I figure the same trick would work if I knew what pins were L, R, + - and ground. Is there a way for me to figure that out on my own?

Thanks Tom, didn't notice that when I removed it I noticed some corrosion on the bottom of the board, what's a safe way to clean it off? Or should I just leave it? It doesn't seem to be affecting anything at the moment

Well this is what the connector looks like on my radio, back to an antenna for me I suppose edited to add second picture The hole for an antenna

That's awesome thanks, I'll probably do this and forget about the antenna all together. Any tips on doing this?

Awesome thanks, that's what I figured but wasn't sure

I'll post pics when I'm at home but it was soldered in, there's no where for an antenna wire to plug in but there is a spot on the board for one, where I heated up the solder and removed it since I had to cut it out of the jy car

Got a stock radio from a jy car and I was wondering if anyone knew what the round connection on the back is, I'll put up a picture when I'm home. I also ordered new antenna wire but I don't know how I should solder it to the board. I already de-soldered the wire that was on there but I can't remember if it was the inner wire or the braided wire that was that was actually connected. I want to say that the braided wire is what was making the connection but from my understanding it's the inner wire that makes the connection and the braided wire acts as insulation to keep interference from coming through the speakers. As always any help is appreciated.

Alright, I went ahead and changed the spark plugs anyway, looked pretty new actually I was a little surprised. After that I checked my hoses for the third time and lo and behold I found a vacuum line just hanging with grease packed into one end. Heres a few pictures The second picture is showing where the line was plugged in but I don't know where the other end of the hose is supposed to go, my vacuum line diagram on the hood is mostly gone, also what is said device where the vacuum line was plugged in?

I'm having a similar issue with my carb'd 85 wagon, today I'm going to check the anti-diesel valve, might be worth a look

It was idling low (about 400rpm) before but the last couple of days its been about 200rpm when warm and wont stay on at all until its warmed up (choke works fine, but now that I think about it I can start the car without engaging the clutch not sure if thats relevant or not) It will stay on at 200rpm its just really rough. The wagon is new to me (been through nine different owners as far as I can tell) but the guy who sold it to me said he replaced most of the vacuum lines under the hood, which made the idle better (should have asked him what he meant by that) I checked the lines again this morning but couldnt find any cracked lines or cracked/worn rubber caps, and none missing as far as I can tell. Replacing my front brake rotors and pads was the only work I did recently but I didn't open the hood at all during.

Is this the same on carbureted engines? And will this solution work on a carbureted engine?