milty60

Besides RockAuto what other reasonable priced parts sites may have the knuckle? Thanks, Milty

I need to replace the ball joint. The bolt head was broken off - I attempted to dill it out but didn't center the drill bit so it walked a bit - the hole is to close to the top edge of the knuckle for my comfort and is not aligned to hold in the ball joint - so I need to replace the knuckle Milty

I will be replacing the front passenger side steering knuckle on my son's 96 Subaru Legacy as soon as I can procure the knuckle. I checked RockAuto they don't sell it. Any other online sites for the knuckle? Thinking I'll probably try to get one from the bone yard. Looking for advice on replacement - I plan on renting tool to pull tie rod end, ball joint - possible tool to pull rotor off of hub - its stuck at the moment - do I need any other rental tools? I've done an axle so I know what I need for it. Also did the struts so I 'm good there too. The brakes too so I'm comfortable. Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks, Milty

Thanks for the tips - if either mount goes again I'll get better quality - the originals were shot. ...Milty

My son's car is a 96 Legacy

I replaced both rear struts in my son's car about a month ago - bought new struts and mounts from RockAuto, I pulled the struts and brought to a local car shop to pull apart and install coil spring on new strut/mount. I don't recall any install kit included with new struts or mounts. Only thought is was a washer or cap or something suppose to of been pulled from old strut. So here's whats happened - last week my son heard a knocking noises from the back of the car - I pulled the cap off the strut in the trunk and the strut rod and nut move up and down and extend above the mount by at least an inch when the car is rocked on the passenger rear side - the driver rear side is quiet and the rod/nut barely sits above the mount. I took the "bad" strut/mount out and brought back to the car shop that assembled it. I said I think I bought a defective mount but they were not so sure. They thought a washer or two or cap shaped washer was missing or not pulled from the original strut. They tried to fashion assumed missing parts from stuff in the shop but when washers etc are placed on the rod not enough rod length was left once threaded portion was covered by mount to tighten nut - so mechanic, shop owner and I assumed mount was bad although its hard to logically understand how mount works - it has what looks like a sleeve that fits around the strut rod that is surrounded molded into the rubber mount - it seems it would bounce up and down in the mount and break the sleeve away from the rubber mount after hitting enough bumps - thats why we thought some kind of washers or metal caps should sit on the lip on the rod inside the bottom of the mount and then a washer on top of the sleeve on top of the mount before the nut goes on. Again the left side is working fine to this point - I'm just thinking in enough time both sleeves will eventually break away from the mount. Any thoughts? Are some mounting parts missing? Or is the strut/mount constructed by design? Thanks, Milty

My son bought his used Subaru with the ABS dash light constant on - seller is his friends brother - he said he pulled the fuse to stop ABS from kicking in. Fuse may of been out for up to a year until I put one in. ABS light is still constant on - ABS does not kick in when you hit the brake hard. I assume something - ABS pump - etc - is seized - etc. I've cleaned rust and crap from all wheel sensors. What DIY steps do you guys suggest to diagnose my son's ABS problem? Thanks, Milty

Strut replacement went fairly smooth this past weekend. Rented coil compressor and rented an electric impact gun - used just about every tip you guys gave to do the job. Only interesting thing is all the bolts that held the strut in place were all straight - no adjusting bolts - all 4 the same diameter top to bottom - I am positive they are the original struts and bolts - verified by past owner and the amount of rust and corrosion on the struts, coils, bolts mounting bushing convince me its the original components. Is it possible some 96 legacy rears are not adjustable? ....Milty

I plan on replacing both rear struts this weekend on my son's Legacy - going to swap out the old coil springs - got new struts form RockAuto - will rent a coil compressor tool - any tips, cautions on doing it - already got a quote from a local garage will do each one of for fifty bucks if I fail - trying to save the 100 bucks for my son. Thanks, Milty

Axle replacement was successful this past weekend - roll pin came out easily with punch and axle but came off easy with a breaker bar. Thanks for all the tips ..Milty

Thanks for all the tips - I hope the roll pin comes out without tons of penetrating fluid wait time - not sure how much longer the axel will last. ...Milty

I plan on replacing my son's half axel on his Legacy this weekend (almost constant clicking noise on turns or driving straight ahead - outside boot is gone). Is there a doc available or any gotchas I should watch out for? What size punch or other tool do I use to remove the roll pin? What size is the nut on the Axel - need to buy a socket. Do I need to remove the strut or just break free ball joint to pull out axel, etc. Viewed some videos online but want your advice. Thanks....Milty

I'll check all those items and report back. 117k for mileage ....Milty

My son told me that a few times doing 60 mpg on the highway that his car will suddenly pull to the left. He does not hit a bump or put on the brakes at this time to cause the car to pull. I have not had a chance to take a test drive yet. Any thoughts?

I'll check all those items - actually opened the hood in the dark last night heard - just once - (and saw a flash just once) - the old familair jumping to ground spark sound - or maybe a cracked plug - going to pick up plugs and wires on way home. If it isn't the fix I'll be back posting. Thanks....Milty

Ok - I will do the drill thru method or used knuckle if needed Thanks....Milty

Was going to replace my son's lower right side ball joint - sprayed it w/h PB - let it sit for hours - tried to remove bolt with socket wrench and sheared bolt head right off. I assume I should drill it - attempt an extractor bit - and possibly have to Helicoil it. Any other advice or thoughts?- hoping for a bit of an easier fix or quicker fix. New England - cold garage - numb fingers - etc etc etc Happy Holidays ....Milty

96 Sub Legacy L 118k - son bought car a few months ago - have not replaced fuel filter, air filter, plugs, or plug wires. I believe those parts are worn but not necessarily the cause of my son's hesitation issue. I am wonder what the ticking noise (his description - I need to hear it) maybe its gas pinging? Wonder if fuel injection system is dirty or having issues - weak fuel pump. Anyone else have this same experience? if so what was the fix? Happy Holidays Thanks.....Milty

I bought a reman starter from Advance Auto Parts - don't remember brand but it is a well know name. I put it in last night. My son told me of some weird behavior he experienced during the day prior to installing new starter. He said on back roads or highway around 2K to 2.5K tach ... he swears he heard/felt the starter motor come on - with the familiar click/knocking sound when it does not start the engine ....and/or he thought it was also engaging the flywheel and causing the car to buck or hesitate. I found that very odd - I was thinking maybe the long strap on his key chain was weighing down the keys or strap was getting pulled and engaging starter. He had mentioned the hesitation or bucking late last week around 2K-2.5K tach - I said maybe plugs, plug wires, fuel injector - I'll have to check. .... I reseated plug wires at coil and plugs. For now issue seems to be gone following install of starter last night - odd coincidence? - who knows - any thoughts? .....Milty

I will take it out this weekend - possibly open it up - go from there - I agree with you all - new defective. ....Milty

Is an ignition starter relay a possible cause? Thanks, Milty

I replaced the starter motor in my son's 96 Legacy 4 weeks ago. Purchased online at RockAuto - a rebuilt - four times to date - about once a week my son will attempt to start his car and nothing - acts like a dead battery but headlights are strong when you turn them on. I have him check shift is fully in Park - put in park a couple of times - also make sure key is fully turned in ignition - still dead. Walk away for a half an hour or more - try to start again - starts up first try in an instant. I am sure its a new defective - dead spot or something - but I'm open to your ideas before I see if RockAuto has a return policy - if so I'll buy one local. Any differential diagnosis one this no start behavior? Any Advice? Thanks....Milty

Wow - ok I will at least take a closer look at it this weekend but seems like most of you say a split boot is a waste of time - short life. Although, decades ago I replaced a cvj outer boot on my father's Subaru wagon and I think it lasted at least a couple of years - until car was totaled in a roll over - don't know how long Son's boot has been split - son just bought car a few months ago. At worse - I'll do a cling wrap temporarily as noted and hit junk yard. Thanks....Milty

Planning to work on my son's 96 Legacy again. I found right front outer cvj boot has a split. No one except for Rock Auto carries the (quick-boot but its listed for the Outback - which my son's friends claim is a Legacy Outback - I'm not so sure) ) split boot kit - it came with a collar , a split boot - 2 halves - and a cone shaped split wedge adapter - Dorman 614632 kit. Problem is the collar (ring shaped) is not split (assume it an extra adapter not intended for a split boot repair) - so I carefully split it - the wedge shaped collars fits around the axle but the ends don't meet - also whatever mix of sleeve wedge configuration I attempt the split boot does not fit (make contact with collar and or wedge due to the split boot diameter is larger than the collar/wedge adapter diameter). I don't want to remove CVJ - like to use a split boot fix. Do you guys know of any other auto parts vendor that carries split boots for a 96 Legacy or have a thought on how I can make the one I have work - possibly with unrelated parts from a auto parts store, hardware store, that I can adapt to my split boot, etc. I attached two files - specs and screenshot of boot kit. Thanks, Milty cvjBoot.rtf

Thanks for all the advice - if I find time this coming weekend - I'm going to work on the bleeding. ....Milty