scoobdude
-
Posts
36 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by scoobdude
-
-
go over you owner's manual on how to work the A/C. i know the 05's have climat control so its different than the 04. but you might still need to push a button for A/C as well as settign the temp low enough.
but the noise you speak of sounds like the fans. you can also open the hood at operating temp and wait for them to turn on and see if the noises are together.
#2 is a relay. they wired the 04+ different due to the addition of HIDs i believe on the STi.
Joe
-
not a big deal that i know of. just need a special tool that can be rented at autozone.
Good luck
Joe
-
spngy pedal could be caused if there is a detent cable. check to see if yours uses one. but i am prettys ure they have ben using all electronic ones for awhile.
if it constantly stalls try this, try to put it in nuetral when braking(helps save your brakes also). this can be done without pushing the button (iff applicable). N-D is always unlocked in case of sticky throttle or quick start after engine dies on rd. if you push the buttom you may jam it into reverse...whihc is NOT GOOD.
good luck and keep us posted
Joe
-
the above test will work, but will not check if the resistance is still in check. i know of no way to check that part though.
mud pit sounds like the best answer (as long as you have one lsd you should be fine)
i know mine works cause i can get the rear tires to spin on a turn. he he
Joe:brow:
-
Sorry i did not see wher you had replaced your exhuast. try this and then reset. get a 19mm spark plug defouler and drill a 1/2" hole though it. then grab another one and screw it on the drilled end. then take out your o2 sensor and install the defoulers. then put your 02 sensor back on. this worked for me until i got Em.
good luck.
Joe
-
p0420 may be bank 1 sensor 2 which applies to the sensor after the catalytic converters. mine was throwing that code when i changed the exhaust and took out the cats. sensor is probably faulty.
good Luck
Joe
-
when cats go out they smell like rotten eggs.
wet dog smell is probably not caused by cat (alytic converter)
look for a header and exhaust just to get rid of the whole system.
Joe
-
try www.soko.com we used to get nissan and toyota motors from them.
much better pricing to:
last time i checked a VG30ET (with turbo)for a 300zx single turbo was 650 shipped no core
last time i checked a VQ30DE (all aluminum, moly rings and microfished crank and cams form the factory) was 1800. tranny was 800 for SE and 650 for GLE/GXE
its been about 2 years since i called them though. there are other companies than can get you similiar though from japan. japanese motors are usually less than 30K miles due to emissions.
goodluck
Joe
-
block to fram gound would not be culprit for gauges though would it?
i would say, check battery and check connection at starter and alternator. on most cars, if you disconnect the starter the circuit cannot complete. next time it happens turn on your headlights. if they work then its probably aa ground inside the car to your main harness or accessory harness.
good luck and keep us posted.
Joe
-
good way to check the pump is listen for open the gas cap and have someone turn the key to "on" the pump should run for 1-3 seconds. if this works tehn pump is at least turning on when asked. also check plugs as fouled plugs can cause this type fo problem with that CEL.
only 3 things make a motor run: fuel + air + spark = flame. if you have all three than you should be good.
Joe
-
Another time i have seen a blinking flash is when the diagnostic indicator has been left plugged in or "the paperclip" in some of hte older cars (applies more to domestic though)
try taking the ecu completely out and let it sit over night. may just need a brake. electronics act weird sometimes.
good luck and keep us posted
Joe
-
Joe, what can I say? I already replied politely to your question on the viscous differential in this thread. If you thought that my information was incorrect, you should have at least done a search to check out my info. Instead you just reposted the same incorrect info, and asked that someone else do the research and provide you with a website. I'm sure you can do a website or Google search as well as the next guy.
And I can be as wrong on something as the next guy. The whole idea is to make sure that the information passed around on this board is as accurate as possible. And that's not easy because even SOA doesn't have the straight poop a lot of the time. No hard feelings, I'm not the most patient guy on the planet. I tried praying for patience for a while, but it just didn't come quick enough.
no hard feelings.
include procrastination in your next prayers. takes patients to a whole new level.
Joe
-
Yo Cowboy, the viscous center differential is a Subaru MT IS a sealed unit. And no, I'm not going to provide a weblink for you just to prove my point. Tell ya what, why don't you just pry the viscous center differential on your car open with a crowbar or something. I'm sure them fellers done at the Sube dealer will be able to refill that puppy with new silicone fluid in less time than it takes a country boy to milk a sunburned armadillo. Whatever.
My bad the VCU is a sealed unit. my apologies as i am used to the clutch type units.
however your rude comments are not needed on this board
thanks
that is all
Joe
-
As The Dude pointed out, Subaru's spec is circumferance. You failed to multiply by 2pi (2 x 3.14 = 6.28).
1/32" tread depth variation and you are still ok (~0.2" on circumference). But 2/32" tread depth variation and one is over Subaru's spec. Reliably measuring the tread to this accuracy is difficult IMHO. I was faced with this exact situation a few years ago when I had a sidewall puncture on a fairly new tire. The wear was "around" 1 or 2 32nds of an inch. I ran the fuse until the weekend. I then jacked up the car and wrapped a tape measure around all 4 tires. The new tire was right at the 1/4" allowance. I pulled the fuse and did not experience any trouble.
Commuter
Ok i just want to point out a few things... drive line slop, tire differances (even air pressure effects the total circumfrence or revs per mile) will affect this. my spare is not even teh same size as my stock tires ( off the car where pressure has less of an affect on circumfrence). so subaru is not the know all say all.
now i am no engineer, but physics still play their role in this equation, and due to the lack of proof of either side, i suggest we just make our own oppinon and only express scientific facts.
and in regards to the center diff... its not a "sealed unit". in an auto the transfer case and final drive assembly are seperated due to differnt needs. auto tranny has auto tranny fluid...while the diff/ transfer case has gear oil.
if i am incorrect in any of these please let me know...link would be great
that is all
Joe
-
My understanding of ceramic brake pads (and someone PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong) is they are more geared towards racing applications and not appropriate for normal street use. I was told they need to "heat up" to get optimum stopping power. So on a race track, where normal pads would get too hot and fade, a ceramic pad will work great. But on the street, you're not braking enough to heat up the ceramic pad and may risk LOSING stopping ability.
And from my understanding of ceramics in general (not ceramic brake pads), ceramic material are very "hard" and I would think they would be harsher on a rotor than other types of pads. I have no proof or direct knowledge of this in braking applications- I'm just thinking back to my old ceramics material class.
if this were true they would not be OEM on many cars.
ceramics do have a good initial bite but are not as good at fade resistance. and they do still squeel, but its a much higher frequency so it can't be heard. plus the dust is lighter in color so easier on the eyes in between car washes
Joe
-
isn't the MT center diff a viscous coupling? this would mean that you would over heat the fluid, but no advese affects. clutches and fluid wear out but in a MT i do not see any perm damage that could not be fixed via new fluid.
Please correct me if i am wrong
also in a MT i would recommend thowing the "different sized tire" on the front. this is cause in the WRX you have an open diff. this means the transmission will use the path of least resistance to push torque though. on the rear you have the LSD which is usually a cluth type which will wear out if the tire is placed in the rear. this will affect the center diff more than the the if the tire was placed in the front.
Joe
-
try this link www.bobistheoilguy.com
i have cruised that forum many times in search of oil related questions. its awesome and very informative.
its also alot like this board in the sense it requires a mature audience.
good luck though
Joe
-
you can try installing one of the filters under the glove box or you can get an air freshner.
I thik the smell being more noticable with the air off has soemthing to do with the way the a/c actually dries out the air though the drier. less humidity usually means less smell...from waht i have notice any way. good luck either way
Joe
-
**UPDATE**
changed back to 20-50 for over 5k miles and problem has not returned. stuck with amsoil just moved from the 10-40.
conclusion: bad seals on turbo or to thin of an oil.
Joe
p.s. thanks for all your help on this issue
-
i have an 04 wrx and am trying to see if anyone knows what the injector duty cycle maxs out at with stock injector on stock boost. also does any one know what the formual would be for calculating injector size of cfm...just to maintain the 14.7:1 i can figure the forumal from there.
thanks in advance
Joe
-
also if you car wa running rich, it could have overheated the cats and plugged them up. you would notice a lack of power.
also try letting it run in first gear without the clutch pedal and see where it idles
If you completely diengage the tranny, does it still idle low (fully press the clutch)
Joe
-
some are pregapped. feeler gauge should work fine in most cases. but here is an excellent link which has more information than i can offer. http://www.sparkplugs.com
joe
-
The only thing that would be different between this engine and the chevy's is the sleeves. Most (if not all ) aluminum blocks have sleeves. this may make your job easier or harder. I have never replaced sleeves before, but you can resuse the same pistons if you get new ones.
Also there are a few companies that sell preassembled short blocks. kinda pricey though.
Good luck either way.
Joe
-
You may be able to get a fuel pressure gauge for about 20 bucks to check pressure on a hill. also try pinching the FPR and see if pressure goes back up.
Joe
NEW User Question
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
timing belt?
bad starter?
does the motor turn?
check battery terminals?
Joe