scottsheppard@videotron.ca

Turns out I am likely ok...this little bugger was the culprit spraying oil everywhere. Looking thru the access hole on top of tranny, the inside looks dry and no oil...

Well, confirmed. I took the sensor off and tried to bow a bit of air thru it with the air knozzle....oil came out of there likes Texas well...off to buy two so I can replace both...

Hey folks Per my last post on another thread, I thought my recent head gasket job with all the various seals and gaskets got messed up as I have a good leak dribbling away...I thought rear main was botched...when I took the intake manifold off I saw this...could it be that simple? If so, what is that sensor....looks like it even leaking up thru plastic electrical connection....similar to the oil sensor issue common on these ...anyone with any ideas or experience?

This was my orig seal before removal and after a quick power wash

@xdeadeye....I am sure you will be fine. Mine had over 200k and the crank was likely worn....I have ordered some sleeves to try out....

yes, topped up oil, started engine and went for little drive...dribbling began...the small diamond access port looked pretty clean--never touched it...does anyone one know if the crank on the 01 legacy is the same as the 2007 (dimension wise?)...silver seal sells a 2.5 L chrome sleeve that I may put on if it fits a 2007 EJ251 engine... thanks scott

Pardon the thread revival but may as well add rather than cover new ground...I just did an ej25 with head gaskets, valve covers etcetera and the rear main seal...I used the fel pro....I thought it was in the same place and perfectly Flush....leaks worse than ever now. Anyone have any experience with these seals? Assuming it was the rear seal....I did the oil separator with right stuff gasket maker....gurrrrr another weekend pulling the engine! I guess next time use Subaru genuine seals? Kind regards Scott

fix the engine---ensure you use the multi layer steel head gasket--either a felpro or 6 star. Good to go. I just did my fist head gasket and the hardest part was re-installing the engine (lining up the mounting bolts)...lots of good info out there. If you can do it yourself, you can do the heads and t belt, idler pulleys etc all for under 4oo bucks in parts ...just my thoughts...then again not everyone likes playing with cars. Paying for someone else to do it is a tuff swallow but still cheaper than starting all over with a different veh.

seem to be getting the typical 851 codes, no cruise etc etc...has anyone replaced this switch? If so, how much of a pain is it with the exhaust still in place ?? thanks scott

Rock Auto has great stuff. I bought a few of the Gates Kits for well under 100 bucks and it came with all new bearings, tensioner and made in the USA belt. The bearings were from the same outfit Suraru sources from. Just sayin...

the old wagon has served well to date (appx 270 000 Km;s),,,have kept the head gasket magic goop in the coolant as advised by subaru and given it regular care. Now that we are looking for a good car for my son I am considering handing over the soob while we look for another. I have since lost touch with the state of head gasket repairs in general, but wonder if we are just on borrowed time? If it does go and I redo the gaskets, what has been the average life of the ej25 overall? I believe it is not as high mileage as the ej22? appreciate your comments. scott

thanks for all the help folks:)...most appreciated. it looks about as straight forward as I thought... cheers scott

yes, just the rear hub--complete assy....I have no patience (or press) to remove bearings...would teh new seal already be installed on teh new hub assembly? cheers and thanks scott

Having trouble with this post...I purchased two complete hub/housing/bearing assy's for the car to hopefully replace the rub/drone noise. Are special tools required for this replacement. I ask because I came across a site that appeared to use a spec subaru tool...I may do calipers pads at same time... cheers scott

thanks...hopefully will be able to remove without having to drill out the bolts...is there in fact a gasket between the two sides? s

Hello I have a rather annoying exhause leak at the junction of the catalytic converter and (the other thing that looks like one!)...I gather there is a gasket there but as you can see, the bolts and the springy things are pretty rusted...if there is just a gasket in there, any tips on freeing those bolts? cheers scott

thats great information, thank you...I knew the sohc hg issue was somewhat less severe than the dohc but did not realize it was as..'accommodating'...good to hear and thanks for your reply. Yes, I can only imagine how not fun doing the hg would be without the engine removal...

Hey Folks, Has anyone every done an average of the expected life of the HG? My Legacy wagon (2001 SOHC) now has over 170 000 KM's (about 105 K miles) on it. I have been putting in the 'conditioner' but realize time is against me. I just fished the Timing Belt, WP as well as valve adjust and new seals...curious if I am on borrowed time until the HG goes. As well, anyone had any luck doing the HG while engine still in the car? I am preparing myself for the enevitable whicj I am sure will happen in the dead of winter!! regards scott

I realize some have posted you do not need spec tools for the timing belt, but just how do you manage to set the correct torc on the pulley when you get it all back together--assuming you can get it off? I had thought purhaps the chain vice grips? as well, how much more work to replace the oil seal on the oil pump if I decide to do it? I am doing the water pump and the idlers from parts I ordered from FCP GROTON...under 300 USD delivered for: water pump all idlers belt tensioner I defer to your collective subaru wisdom. scott (a mere subaru tinkerer) 2001 legacy wagon 2.5 sohc ej252

It is a manual trans...which ebay kits are the best--any after market better than another? also, given I can do with regulat tools (I hope) do most garages actually remove the rad? Thanks all for the replies//this is great... scott

Hello, I would like to take a stab at doing my timing belt...It would appear I need some special tools for teh crank pulley>>>Anyone know how specialized or expensive? thanks to all... scott

I was not refering to the seal on the thermostat. The brass metal I was referring to was the bi-metalic part that actually causes a thermostat to work in the first instance. (you know, dis-similar metals etc). I am not familiar with brass seals for thermostats s

I am throwing this out because I had the exact problem with my 2.2 Legacy...was the thermostat thjat seized closed..due to build up of sludge...I took it out and played with it and noted when I boiled it in water it moved again and scraped some gunk off exposing the fresh brass...put it back in and is now A-1 Just a thought that may save some $$$$ s

Hi, I have 2 subi's--one with a 2.2 (1990 Legacy) and one with a 2.5 (2001 Legacy)... Is it me, or is the 2.2 a way better engine? It sounds better, runs smoother and is easier to work on (I find)...the 2.2 also has 370 K on it while the 2.5 has 146K ...just my thoughts...I was thinking of selling the '90 but just can't do it...the car is a bit rusted but that old engine is so good...

I have read thru the posts on here for a while but have a question. I have done my brakes on the old 90 Legacy wagon years ago, but never the 01. Do I require much more 'skill' to do those brakes? I am thinking of rotors and pads...any other things I should consider? What do most recommend for a non-performance family car? cheers scott