rruge

Hi Guys, I hope everyone is well. I am looking at my 1996 Outback Wagon, automatic, 2.5L. I just got an OBDII scan tool that is showing an MAF reading of zero. However, no trouble code is registering in the car's computer; i.e. my MIL/check engine light is off. There is not a lot of troubleshooting data in the Haynes manual: 4 to 7 grams/second under idle is the expected range. I would like to make sure the wiring is OK. I already checked for +12VDC on one of the pins. Would I get a trouble code if the wiring was not OK? Is there anything I could do to the sensor aside from beating it to get it working? Does it come apart? If it is bad, is my only choice to replace it? I read in one of the posts that someone replaced only a $55 "reed". I haven't seen that part online yet. There isn't terrible performance but I would like to know that I am getting optimal fuel mileage for my car. Any and all responses are appreciated. Take care.

By the way, I found a good reference posting for my case... see http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27848. Good stuff that goes over many tips and tricks while bearbalu was doing his head gasket, timing belt, valve clearance, and clutch job. He also refers to the "locked" web site that cookie mentioned at http://mysite.verizon.net/vze730qe/index.html published by theotherskip. I just researched that theotherskip has a new web site where he keeps what I think is what cookie was referring to at... http://home.comcast.net/~skipnospam/Head_gasket_replacement.html. Very good stuff and definitely part of what I was looking for. Thanks to all who have helped. I will post some pics and an update when I have more questions or information. Peace, out.

Can anyone help out? I am looking for the "head gasket replacement website" that Gary is referring to. Also, I am a little discouraged with fixing this Subaru now since I have made some calls and found that rebuilt heads are expensive and hard to come by for the 2.5L; about $400 each locally and non-dealer. BapGeon let me know that his local rebuilders cannot rebuild a cracked head due to some problems related to the crackage. I have not yet determined if there is a crack, but I want to be prepared. I would want to get another 50k to 100k from the car. So I may want to go with a new/rebuilt head anyway. Is it reasonable to think that the original head will last 244k miles if I find it in good condition? Subaru (1stsubaruparts.com) wants about $370 MSRP/$270 discounted for (I assume) a new one. Maybe I should just plan on ordering one if the need arises. I will call them to be sure about timing and if it's a new head; i.e. availability, etc. Is there a good online resource for getting the rebuilt head for the 2.5L? Thanks all.

Hey Gary, Can you give the URL to the web site? I have tried to find that on USMB and a general Google search as well with no luck. Thanks dude. Is that the sprocket drive pully that sits behind the crankshaft pulley?

Do you think that would be a ballpark $1500 with rebuilt heads vs. $1000 without? If so, I would lean towards a simple head gaskets replacement option and do the work myself. I think the materials shouldn't amount to more than $200 unless I need a new head. What about resurfacing the heads? I heard that may be necessary. As far as finding a cracked head, I would visually inspect the head but I could also compression test the motor after gasket replacement and while it's on the engine stand. Once I open up the motor, there should also be signs of where the leak(s) occurred, shouldn't there?

Thanks for your reply. Yep, I believe I already have contacted CCR - Denver for a rebuild. That's would definitely be the easiest and safest route. However, $3000 is a good chunk of change. Regarding hosing the tranny, I would think that... you wouldn't want to force anything on too hard and jiggle driveshaft or flywheel as the engine goes in Correct or add to this list as necessary. I have had quite a bit of experience with installing and removing the older VW bug motors. I hate to overanalyze, but I would like to hear more about the life expectancy of the 1996 2.5L motor. For example, what is considered high mileage for this motor; i.e. are only 10% of these motors making it past 200k? It would be nice to have a statistics database to tap on.

1996 Subaru Legacy Outback Purchased brand new January 1, 1996 2.5L Automatic with 145k miles. Firstly, this message board rocks . Everyone involved makes it work very well for the home and pro mechanic. Keep up the good work! I found oil residue in my coolant reservoir. I cleaned that out and topped off my coolant with about a cup or two of water and coolant back into the coolant system. Two weeks later, I rechecked it to find more oil in the reservoir and low coolant level. Based on my readings of our user group, it looks like an internal head gasket leak. So now I am wondering about my options... Replace the motor with a rebuild. Preliminarily, I found a rebuild for $3000 in Denver within an hour of my house. Add hoses and time to swap external parts. Obviously the least time consuming. Replace the heads with rebuilds. Risk a cracked engine block. The only risk would be the time put into tearing the engine apart before finding a crack. Then I would need to wait for a rebuild. Resurface the heads and replace all gaskets and seals. Risk a cracked block or head. Considerations/questions... I just found the problem and I believe very early on. So I am not in dire straits... yet. I am still driving the car in to work about 10 miles each way. I would guess I have at least a few months. Will I likely need to rebuild the motor soon anyway? What has been the typical life span of this motor? Have I already reached it? I have a day job so getting the work done over a weekend would be fairly important. We do have a second car. However, we also have a family life. Would it be easier overall to pull the motor out to get the heads pulled off? Can you guys give me a ballpark idea of how many hours each option might take? How long have these options actually taken some of you guys and what is your level of expertise? I am interested to know how long a professional can do it AND how long a do-it-yourselfer might take. I might just have a pro do it if I can justify that. I am in Colorado Springs CO. Does anyone know of an honest mechanic out here? What about special tools: pulley puller, engine stand, engine hoist, torque wrench, etc.? What other tools would I need if I were to do the work? What is that one tool that stopped you from finishing the job over a weekend? Where is a good source for rebuilt heads or a rebuilt motor? Could you guess that I am an engineer?? I am obviously concerned about overall cost and time. Any answers would be greatly appreciated. I will probably post pictures later. Thanks for reading. Make it a great day!

On-Board Diagnostics for the 4EAT Auto Tranmission There are two varieties of trouble codes from the Transmission Control Module (TCM); Existing and Previous. Here is how to read the code without the Select Monitor tool. Existing: Move gear selector to D Turn the ignition switch to On Move the selector to 3, 2, then 1st gear. Depress the gas pedal Or Previous: Move the selector to 1st gear Turn the ignition switch to On Move the selector to 2, 3, then D gear. Depress the gas pedal Next, watch the AT Oil Temp light. Here is the output: Light flashes 4 times per second, you have a faulty battery. Light flashes 2 times per second, all is normal. Light remains on, check the inhibitor switch, diagnosis switch, wiring, TCM, etc. Trouble code (see the next section). Reading the trouble code: Long light pulses (~1.2 seconds) indicate "tens." Short light pulses (~0.2 seconds) indicate "ones." Count the long, then short pulses. Interval between codes are ~1.8 seconds. Codes will repeat. There are about 13 codes ranging between 11 and 33. Trouble Code 11) Duty solenoid A 12) Duty solenoid B 13) Shift solenoid 3 14) Shift solenoid 2 15) Shift solenoid 1 21) ATF temperature sensor 22) Mass air flow signal 23) Engine speed sensor 24) Duty solenoid C 25) Torque control signal 31) Throttle position sensor 32) Vehicle speed sensor 1 33) Vehicle speed sensor 2 All solenoid issues, "detect open or shorted drive circuit, as well as valve seizure". All sensor or signal issues, "detect open or shorted input signal circuit". Aside: although Subaru says that the TCM will, "detect... valve seizure", in my case the Duty Solenoid C seizure that I incurred was NOT detected by the TCM. Good luck and may the force be with you. Peace, out....

Real bad news. I just spoke with the guys over at 1stsubaruparts.com. Apparently there is a Service Bulletin (TSB) that says if I am changing the reduction gear, then I need to also replace "driven gear" and "pinion shaft" as a set. This will add another $420 to my $300 transfer case repair not to mention that I would have to open up the front transaxle compartment! I do not believe I have the manual for this part of the tranny (probably not a big deal). Can anyone provide more information on this. The parts guy read the TSB to me and there was nothing that mentions why this is necessary. I am thinking, buy the RG without DG or the PS, compare the new to the old RG, and, if there is nothing obviously different, *********eddaaboutit. Any opinions would be appreciated. Does anyone have the TSB or where could I go to get it? Thanks, Richard

Regarding the images discussed: Go to www24.brinkster.com/richardruge then click on the image number. I have listed each image with a number. Apparently Brinkster disallows direct access to the images from another web site than its own. Thanks, Richard

1996 Outback, AT, 115k I am trying to decide on whether or not to buy the $133 reduction gear for my transfer case. Should I replace the gear knowing that the car probably has about another 85k miles left? Reduction Gear Condition I just pulled my Extension or Transfer case and found what appears to be wear on the inside of the "transfer clutch inner basket". However, the thrust bearing shows no signs of wear and spins freely. Here are pictures. Note: all image links have been updated. See the my new posting on this thread regarding access to these images.... <image 1> <image 2> The center ring is about 3 thousandths of an inch deep or so. Even though the bearing shows no wear, I did have some transfer case work done at 15k where I experienced the transfer clutch binding issue. However, I don't believe they did anything with the thrust bearing and such. The other issue with the RG is that there are grooves notched out on the side of the basket. Another picture: <image 3> These are due to the clutch discs pushing into the clutch basket. A picture of the clutch discs shows where the discs were moving off of center. Notice the clutch wear outside on the outer disc and the wear inside on the inner disc. Apparently the discs were running about 1/16" off-center; bad. The grooves are about 1/32" deep and I was thinking about filing the burrs off and reinstalling it. <image 4> The wierd thing is that these worn outer (left) discs actually "shrank" (or otherwise morphed) in diameter about 1/16" and do not easily slip back over the basket. These had to be pounded off. Let me know if you would replace the Reduction Gear or not. I appreciate your reading all the way through this over-analysis. Thanks in advance. Peace, Richard

A'ight, I will order the solenoid. But I am still curious. I assume the DS acts as a valve and should be closed at some point. So blowing into the port is a reasonable way of testing this functionality. Is this right? Thanks again, Richard

I have a '96 Outback Auto Trans. with 115k. Rear wheel drive was gone at about 85k. I have opened the Extension housing and found that the clutch pack is worn through to the metal. I believe this is only a symptom and not the cause. The duty solenoid is electrically sound; i.e. not open or shorted. When I blow through the hole on the solenoid, the valve is open. I apply the 12VDC to the solenoid and, yep, still open. Should the solenoid close the port opening with the 12VDC applied? Seems obvious, but I wanted to run this by the Board before I order the part. Also, shouldn't I hear a clicking noise in the solenoid when applying the 12VDC? Thanks, Richard

PDF Factory Service Manual Downloads: I am bummed. The rate for the 72 hour download just went up to $35 from $20. This sucks. I was planning on making the downloads this weekend for my 1996 Outback. Peace out, Richard

I had the same problem with my 1996 Legacy Outback 2.5L at about 85k miles. This is a spark plug wire issue. To verify, put the car into a pitch dark area and rev the motor. You should see some arcing. My motor was misfiring much worse whenever accelerating the motor whether I was driving it or revving the motor in Park. It was also idling just fine. In my case, the wires were breaking down and arcing through the wire onto the manifold. There were quite a few sparks also around the coil leading me to believe it was a coil issue. I was wrong. It was all spark plug wires.