[Any engine I can swap with a 90 loyale?]

12 hours ago, HASx11 said:

Phase one ej22 is from 90-98. 99-01 is phase two 

Thanks! Would a phase two swap work fine too? 

[Any engine I can swap with a 90 loyale?]

On 2/16/2019 at 3:02 PM, sparkyboy said:

My answer was easily the most light hearted...lol!

My swap took me 8 months to complete, and cost about $1000 due to a running car for $500, which i sold everything else. I also drilled the flywheel myself, a custom is $200. Your wiring harness can be cut for you for $200, you pay for shipping back and forth usually. 

So there are different approaches. If you want to do this, but don't want to learn electronics, be ready to pay more, but it's plug and play.

But it's almost a must to have an ej in an L body these days. I highly recommend a phase one ej22. 

Would a 2001 impreza with the 2.2 NA motor be suitable for this swap? What is considered a phase one EJ22?

[EA82 Runs Like a NEW MOTOR!! Oil Pump & Front end seals, T belts & Idlers+tensioners = AMAZING]

15 hours ago, Steptoe said:

Well done. Now just wait for the EA82 naysayers to pipe up

They are just an engine that gives and gives, then just once in a while deserves a freshen up which many have no time,patience or money for -so never find out

Seen this time and again, done right gives owner joy once the cost pain is forgotten

Once had a tight wad fighter pilot finally surrender to insistence his EA82 got new lifters along with his reseal and belt kit, water pump and hoses. Was ever so thankful for the result

Where can I source new lifters for the EA82?

[92 Loyale Valve Clatter]

Thanks for everyone's input.  I would venture to guess it's one of the nicer ones still on the road. Being a Nevada car it has zero rust along the fenders and tailgate where I see alot of other loyales suffer.  Anyway enough about that.  I don't think it's ever had the cam tower o rings replaced. I resealed the oil pump at the time I replace the water pump and belt. I guess I didn't go far enough with the cam towers.  

[92 Loyale Valve Clatter]

I have resurrected my Loyale 4WD with the 3EAT auto trans.  I replaced the timing belt while I was trying to address the low oil pressure problem. Since a new oil pump is not available, I replace the mickey mouse gasket and water pump.  Even though oil pressure improved a little, the valves clatter intermittently, even when oil pressure is up. What is the remedy?  I want to make a plan and gather the necessary parts before hand.  In addition, are there some modifications I can make to gain additional horsepower?  

[Engine Codes on 92 Loyale EA82 with A/T non turbo]

To know for sure you will have to get out a meter and check the resistance of the CTS against the service manual chart for resistance vs. temperature, check the EGR solenoid resistance against spec (around 35 ohms), and check for O2 sensor voltage switching (usually between about 250 and 750 millivolts) and/or check the O2 sensor heater circuit for continuity.

 

In all likelyhood you do need these sensors - they are all common failure items. But don't troubleshoot with VISA! TEST, VERIFY, REPLACE.

 

Having waited so long that you have three codes, you now have a much higher chance of these all being some kind of wiring issue like a grounding problem, etc. Have to rule it out with real diagnostics. The computer can't help with that part. It only gives a general direction (maybe the wrong one)

 

GD

Thank you for this info. How do you test the CTS? I was thinking of heating the sensor in boiling water to measure resistance at temp?

[Engine Codes on 92 Loyale EA82 with A/T non turbo]

_ is the long flash

o is the short flash for the ECU codes

 

Simple and effective I thought

 

I'd be doing what idosubaru has suggested

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

Thanks for the clarification Bennie. The morse code is what I was trying to communicate. 

[Engine Codes on 92 Loyale EA82 with A/T non turbo]

Hi Guys, 

I've been intermittently having a check engine light and lately its been a little more steady. I pulled the cover on the dash and plugged in the white terminals to read the light on the ecu. 

92 Loyale EA82 with A/T non turbo

 

It sends the following: 

 

_ _ _ oo

 

_ _ _ oooo

 

_ _ o

 

So is that: 

 

32  O2 sensor

34 EGR Solenoid

21 Coolant Temp Sensor

 

Do I need to replace all of these sensors, or is one relate to the other? 

 

[Engine Codes on 92 Loyale EA82 with A/T non turbo]

Hi Guys, 

I've been intermittently having a check engine light and lately its been a little more steady. I pulled the cover on the dash and plugged in the white terminals to read the light on the ecu. 

92 Loyale EA82 with A/T non turbo

 

It sends the following: 

 

_ _ _ oo

 

_ _ _ oooo

 

_ _ o

 

So is that: 

 

32  O2 sensor

34 EGR Solenoid

21 Coolant Temp Sensor

 

Do I need to replace all of these sensors, or is one relate to the other? 

 

[Valve clatter]

Correct. There are many conversions on the forum. Most typical one is the ej22 from the gen1 or gen2 liberty.

 

If you go this way try and get a good running car as you'll have all the important bits to make sure you can get your car running with the EJ.

 

It's a lot of work for just getting rid of the lifter tick though. And to do this conversion reliably you should put in some engine maintenance too.

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

Thanks Bennie. I agree, it's alot of work to take care of the tick. I love the car, but for long term driveability the low hp is hard to accept.  I'm at 5000 ft altitude and climbing the mountain to 8800 is tough on it and the line of people behind me. If I could get another 20 horses, I think it would be a pretty good car.  Its great to get a few thumbs up from old school skiers.   

[Valve clatter]

Another trick I used to use was a 3mm spacer behind the oil pressure relief valve in the oil pump. While there it's a good idea to clean out any crud that's built up in the relief valve as this may not be creating a solid seal.

 

Another thing to check is the same setup in the heads at the cams. From memory there's a brass looking nut that has a ball and spring behind it. Clean this up to ensure a good seal. I believe this pressure relief is to release oil after everything is pressurised (bin luring the HLAs, this oil is then dropped over the cam runners IIRC.

 

Sounds stupid, but chasing the lifter tick in the EA82 is one of the big reasons why I went EJ - and have never looked back.

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

Thank you for all of your help!  BTW, when you say you went EJ, does this mean you swapped an EJ motor?  IF you did this, what is the best donor car to perform this swap?  

[Valve clatter]

I would try replacing the oil pump, but since they aren't available, and the gasket replacement seemed to increase my oil pressure, I'm thinking it's something in the head. 

[Valve clatter]

While I'm inside the cam towers, should I replace any other parts while I'm there?

[Valve clatter]

Those O rings on the cam carrier. Does that job require the entire timing belt disassembly, or can it get them from the valve covers? 

[Valve clatter]

When I replaced the oil pump gasket, I also replaced the shaft seal and other o rings that came with the kit. At cold startup, the gauge is reading about 50. When the temp rises, the oil still barely reads above 0. The clatter sometimes happens at idle but not always.  Sometimes I hear it when the car is running about 1500 rpm and the oil pressure is at 45. It may clatter at higher speeds, but its difficult to hear with the engine winding up and other road noise. It seems to clatter and then stops. It is sporadic when it starts and stops, but I have noticed it getting louder over the past year of running the car. Other than that, the engine has been running smooth. 

[Check engine light on 93 loyale]

Thank you! 

[Check engine light on 93 loyale]

I have noticed the check engine light intermittently lighting up. Sometimes in the morning and sometimes while it's warmed up. If there is a problem in the morning the car is a little harder to start like the choke isn't working. Of course it's efi, so that doesn't make sense, but maybe it's the cold start injector or something like that. If it lights up when the car is warm it really doesn't have any power, like it's in limp mode. how can I read the codes, or does someone have ideas on this symptom?

[Valve clatter]

I recently replace the timing belt, water pump and changed the oil pump mouse gasket as a recent maintenance project. Before I did this the valves were clattering, but they still clatter after this work was done. The oil pressure is better, but still low especially at idle. When running at about 2000 rpm the oil psi sometimes runs over 45 psi and the clatter intermittently starts and stops. It also intermittently starts and stops at idle. The noise has become louder over the past few months. Are there any solutions?

[Loyale A/C compressor always on?]

I'm working on a '92 Loyale with a/c.  It seems that any selection I make on the HVAC panel the a/c compressor is always running. I noticed this when I was running the heater and I can hear the compressor pull on the engine.  Is this a feature of this model? I recall some cars would run the a/c compressor during defrost to help dehumidify the air, but not in the heat mode.