drewpear

in the spirit of having fun, i say that i'm shocked and surprised you recommend tightening the bolt "good and tight" specs, specs, where is the data? lol i was planning on getting a torque wrench...

i do have a manual. i should probably refer there more often...lol on this repair i decided not to touch the cams, though i did get seals when i bought a timing kit. the cam seals are not leaking...yet and i don't want to get over my head though perhaps i fret a little too much. once you get in there, it's often not as scary as it seems. i want to keep the timing adjustment simple this time. seems i would have more to contend with also replacing cam seals. is this correct?... the car has been sitting for a year. like to see if/how it runs. i could do it later i'm thinking.

thank you for the replies. regarding using jb, where exactly would you use it? i don't work on cars, but i have experience with putting things together. it seems that the jb can't rise above the walls of the keyway and what of the area of missing metal? would a little jb at the bottom of the keyway work, since it is curved and it's my understanding that the key is solely to assist in alignment when tightening the bolt.

mostly outside

i'm working on this vehicle replacing some timing parts. the vehicle hasn't run for a year or so. of course i will be anxious to start it up after the timing work, but i'm feeling there may be some things i should do before i try to start it. oil and filter change comes to mind. what else should i be concerned with? thank you.

could you elaborate?

210,000.

almost a year.

i pulled the crank sprocket yesterday using the tap and pull method. here is what the key way looks like. it's not looking too well i think. a little research suggested that there may be an option to use loctite, jb, or other metal bonding/fill product. to repair the key way. any suggestions? i'm curious. what probably broke first, the key or keyway?

thank you very much for the video link. the belt is no longer on.

so where is a good tutorial on installing this kit to this car?

doh! i thought they both had water pumps. i think they call that a brain fart... i'm not sure about the engine type. i'll have to investigate. one of the other idler pulleys is well rusted and the other is starting too. you are correct that it's the idler sprocket that is failing. thanks for the heads up. do you have an idea of what might have caused this issue. what failed.

yikes! no worries eh? just gotta make some marks and everythings going to be okay... sound advice. so i took a look online the first two links are for gates brand. i don't understand the difference in the kits or the pricing being from the same company. the third link has the best price. can you help me to understand what i should get. i do like the cheapest one...lol i know it's not always the best choice, but in this day and age, with online, things are different. i imagine gates is just a good brand? thank you http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/397-01105017.html http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/407-05287181.html http://www.carparts.com/details/Subaru/Legacy/Replacement/Timing_Belt_Kit/1999/KIT1-041415-12-B.html?TID=gglpla&origin=pla&gclid=Cj0KEQiAgJTGBRDLr5_az_Ouk44BEiQAIxaA4psKsQh1CfMu_PpA51T3C98nIOkJH9Kw9_RdLgJ1mh8aAuOj8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

i love it when a plan comes together. a can of pb blaster showed up around here. i had never heard of it before. cool. thank you for your offer. i have purchased one already online. i'm curious about re-assembly. i'm told that with what has been removed at this point there aren't any timing issues. can this be correct if only the crank pulley has been removed?

thank you. i don't understand grind cut at key way.