subaru86

The 1986 FSM says the rear shock outer cylinder length is 10.28" for 4WD wagons, 10.59" for 2WD wagons, and 10.98" for 2WD XTs. 2WD sedans are 10.75". I ordered KYBs for a 2WD wagon, and found they were the same length (base attachment bolt to lower spring seat, lower spring seat to upper spring seat stop, base attachment to upper attachment bolts) as Subaru 4WD shocks, with no room to add any spacers. I got some Monroes for a 2WD wagon, and the base attachment to lower spring seat length was 1/4" more, and there was room to add about 1/4" of spacer washers below the top nut, giving me the 1/2" increase in ground clearance. I thought that 2WD XT shocks might give me another almost 1/2", but it seems it is not to be. The KYB and Monroe part numbers are the same for 2WD sedans vs. 2WD XTs. And looking at part photos (on rockauto.com and monroe.com) and measuring things on-screen indicates that both manufactures simply took their shock for a 2WD wagon and moved the lower spring seat up (a little for KYB, quite a bit for Monroe) to get their shock for 2WD sedans/XTs. I took the lower spring seats off of my old Subaru 4WD shocks (non-adjustable) and will try stacking them on top of the ones on my Monroes. That should give me about 3/8" extra in ground clearance, at least as much as I could get from the sedan/XT KYBs and without increasing spring preload too much, which might happen with the sedan/XT Monroes. I wonder how Subaru shocks for these scenarios would compare.

I noticed that the 1986 FSM shows that rear shocks for the XT are a little longer than the 4WD or 2WD wagon shocks. Has anybody tried putting the XT shocks in a wagon? Would the springs and top from the wagon fit the XT shock? The wagon in question would be an '86 4WD EA82. Thanks for any input.

I took the spindle with the stuck race to a shop, and that's what he did--cut into it with a rotary cutter a couple of times, then drove it off with a chisel. There was a ton of red sparks. The new hub/bearing went on fine after that. Thanks for the guidance.

I'm working on a 1993 Impreza L front-wheel drive automatic. Going to replace a rear wheel bearing, where you replace the whole hub/bearing assembly. Took out the assembly, but the inner race separated out and stayed stuck on the spindle. The race won't turn on the spindle, and there doesn't seem to be enough of a crack to wedge in a screwdriver and drive it down the spindle, and nothing else to grab hold of. I'd be grateful for any suggestions.

Yohy, I have sent you a PM regarding the Impreza FSM.

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I've got a '86 GL 4WD wagon, carbed. It has a "fuel separator" near the filler hose for the gas tank. Does this item need to be periodically replaced? I read somewhere that it does, but I can't find any info on it in here. I'm not talking about the 3-port second fuel filter in the engine compartment found on some models before '85. Any info would be appreciated.

The FSM for my 1986 GL wagon shows water pumps with two different hub heights, 105mm for (factory) AC and 110mm without AC (or with dealer AC). However, the 105mm water pump at my local parts store wasn't the same as the one on the car, which has factory AC. It measures 110mm from the gasket mating surface at the bottom to the top surface of the water pump hub. Leaves me confused . . . Best bet may be try it and see which one lines up with the rest of your pulleys.

Was that with a 1.8 L engine?

Would this be a SPFI 2WD car?

The highway mileage figures you guys are giving--what are your typical highway speeds? The old EPA highway ratings are based on 60 mph. Also, some posts didn't mention 2WD or 4WD, carb or SPFI/MPFI, turbo or not.

I just got a variable ratio manual rack for an EA82 from a junkyard. Is there a source for the boot kits besides the dealer? All the kits I have seen are either for power steering, or the manual steering on an EA81. Looks like boots from a power steering rack won't be long enough, the manual when the wheel is fully turned extends 1" further than the power does.

So how do you adjust the belt tension w/o tools?

Do you need to buy a special tool to hold the camshaft sprockets when adjusting timing belt tension on a EA82 engine? Haynes manual says apply 18 ft-lbs to one of the nuts on the sprocket, but they are supposed to be torqued to only about 7 ft-lbs. The local dealer says they don't sell Subaru tools to individuals, and would have to call a tool truck.

I had the same problem in my 86 GL wagon w/ carb. I unhooked the PCV hoses from the air cleaner, first the passenger side (intake) and later the small hose on the driver's side, each time putting a piece of PCV filter material in the hose ends and held on with a clamp. No more oil in the air cleaner. Finally, I replaced the PCV valve with a Subaru PCV valve, after seeing advice that non-Subaru valves may leak even when new. Reconnected PCV hoses. Problem was solved. If this doesn't do it, some people have also advised removing the valve cover gaskets and cleaning the oil return passages. Otherwise, piston ring blow-by, etc. may be the next thing to investigate.