chico00

Well...just got the results on the compression test. Cyl 4 only had 50 psi. Looks like a burnt exaust valve. Suppose that would be a good enough reason for a misfire code. I guess the next step is to start tearing this bad boy down. I am a little concern about rebuilding a new top end on an engine with 115k on it and not doing the entire engine but at this point I just want to get it fixed as cheap and easily as possible so I can dump it. I hate to say this here on this message board since everyone has been so nice but I dont think I'll ever buy another subaru. I have had nothing but trouble and have spent over 5 grand fixing this car the 3 years I've owned it. Not to mention that I am still paying the bank for it. Oh well...should have bought that toyota I was going to buy. Thanks all Brett

I've mentioned on a previous post about a misfire code on cyl 4 that Ive been getting on my 98 outback 2.5. As I stated, I have done just about everything suggested here and elsewhere to solve the problem (new coil pack, plugs, MAF, EGR, EGR solenoid, fuel injector, new vaccum line, cleaned throttle body, and sea foamed (useless). Tommorrow a mechanic buddy is going to check compression again and do a leak down test. My best guess so far is a burnt exaust valve. I can only go by this because of the dollar bill test in which the dollar suck back in. This all leads me to my question. If it is an exaust valve, my asumption is I will be pulling the head off and going through the motions of rebuiding the motor. Will all this be easier to do if I just pull the engine? or can I access everything from the top and bottom? At this point I dont even know if I can do a job this big since I never done something like this. I am pretty mechanically inclined but it is still pretty intimidating. I do know I cant afford the 3 grand I am guessing it will cost. Can anyone give me some pointers?

Wow... I am having the same problems with my 98 outback. I have change the plugs , wires, coil pack, fuel inj.@ 4, egr, egr solenoid, clean out throttle body, clean vaccum line (by the way looked 5 times worse than my old roommate b*ng pipe) and put in a new MAF. I am stumped. I keep getting the same code that I have a misfire @ cyl 4 and now is flashing constantly. Hope someone has some insight>

Woops...your'e right. I am getting PO304. I was looking @ ALLDATA before I posted and read about the EGR system. I would have thought if anything was wrong with the EGR, the system would code it specifically (i.e. PO400) A mechanic buddy of mine told me to pull the EGR off and close off the system by making a seal gasket from a coke can. He said to drive it around a day or so and see if anything changes. He said it would probably drive better by bypassing the system. Well see.

Man...I am cursed with the ol' CEL PO400 syndrome. (AKA Misfire 4). I have done just about everything I have taken from the previous posts (thanks everyone) but the light still keeps coming on and blinking at me. I am thinking it might be the EGR Solenoid Valve but I am not sure. I am not really sure I know what it does. Does anyone know? This is what I have done so far: Plugs (autolite), Wires (Belden - NAPA), Coil Pack (OEM), Fuel Injector @ 4 (OEM), MAF (Junk Yard- OEM), Cleaned the throttle body and all the tubes,& Cleaned the EGR Valve. These are the symptoms now (before it was idling rough): Idles better but not all the way normal Feels like it is going to stall out when approaching a stop Engine temp rises abnormally when sitting in traffic or at steady speed (45 mph). Otherwise, it drives great. Oh yeah one more thing. I have very leaky valve cover gaskets. They need changing bad but I need to get this CEL to stop coding the computer so I can get it smogged. I am two months w/o tags. Thanks for any help -Brett

I have been reading through this thread and a funny thing has just occured to me. I have been having problems with my CEL and getting the infamous "Misfire 4 code" for about month. First I changed the plugs, wires (belden from NAPA) and coil pack to no avail. Now in the past month I have put in a mass air flow sensor, fuel injector @ 4, cleaned the EGR and cleaned out the throttle body and all the vaccum tubes, (California emmisions crap) all to end up with the CEL flashing @ me. I think my problem might be the EGR solenoid but at this point it has become a full on parts toss. How much are OEM wires? This is getting expensive!

Yep, Looks like I am finally going to have to break down and buy the repair manual...I will be doing this on the side of my house, whats is the best way to block up the car and still be able to reach everything easily. Do I even need to get in from the top and should I block up the car so I just reach every thing from underneath?

Any good repair manuals or websites that can give me some step by step instructions on replacing my valve cover gaskets. I sure there are some tips on what not to do or better yet, what makes the job a whole lot easier. Thanks for any advise - Brett Oh yeah, this is for a 98 OTB 2.5