rp2813

Thanks so much. That will be quite helpful. I can correct others the next time I play croquet, which is likely never. I'll be sure not to be so specific about implements going forward. For other contributors, here's the latest: I pulled the alternator and it's an aftermarket part without any identifying label or number, and a different looking housing from the OEM Mitsubishi (A2TB2891ZC). Based on that, I won't pursue a rebuild. I found a used and tested OEM Mitsubishi alternator nearby with a six month warranty, for cheap. Should it fail at some point in the future, it will be worth rebuilding. If the trouble arises again in short order, at least I'll not have invested much and will have a factory correct alternator.

I'm a procrastinator. Until the problem recurred, I just drove the vehicle waiting for it to happen again since battery replacement was highly suspect by myself and others here as a simple and lasting solution. The Baja is not my daily driver or the problem would have presented itself again a lot sooner than it did. Since the voltage was holding steady when I tested yesterday (like any problem that won't occur when you bring it to a mechanic), I decided to imitate as best I could a situation similar to driving over the many crumbling streets around here, so I tried the rubber mallet. My logic was, if it's intermittent, something is likely loose. I doubt a good/new OEM alternator would have responded the same way. I do have a good rebuilder locally. An aftermarket alternator was never an option. OEM used and tested or rebuilt is all I've considered. @ brus bro: It's not like I took a hard swing with a sledge hammer in an attempt to destroy the alternator. It was a rubber mallet and it didn't take much of an impact to create the failure or to restore proper operation. There's a big difference between a metal hammer and a rubber mallet. Look it up or have someone draw you a picture, and spare me the condescension. Thanks to those who have provided helpful input.

As expected, several weeks later the problem has returned. Now I'm fairly certain the alternator has issues. I used a volt meter to check alternator function and it seemed fine, but I waited and left the car running for about 15 minutes. I jiggled the green connector and voltage decreased into the very low 13 range, but then recovered to 14.5 where it had been fairly steadily since starting the car. I couldn't recreate the trouble so then I got a rubber mallet and gave the alternator itself a good rap. Immediately the voltage reading dropped back into the danger zone. Jiggling the connector didn't change anything. I gave a few more raps and voltage would rise to normal with one or two hits, then drop back down with another rap or two. My feeling now is that the alternator has a failed/failing component and that the whole thing needs to be replaced, which is something I can do myself. Is there any reason to think it's something else? I'm looking at used alternators that have tested good and have a brief warranty period so in case I'm wrong about this, I won't have spent a lot on a replacement.

Thanks. I've been thinking about this and am pretty sure that it's been so long since a battery has demonstrated signs of failure on me while driving that this Baja is likely my first car with any sort of computerized operation to have this happen. I'm attributing the engine issues to the temporary loss of computerized functions. Interestingly, since replacing the battery the radio has been working properly. This is why I was thinking the battery guts like plates could have deteriorated and created intermittent problems before worsening to the point of making it difficult to keep the engine running. My knowledge of electrical theory is just enough to make me dangerous, but I'm pretty sure that you need a sound battery in order for the alternator to do its job.

I guess I'm missing something. The voltage ranged between 14.25 and 14.28 when I tested with a multi-meter. Unless Subarus are different from the average car, the range for a properly working alternator is between 13.8 and 14.8v. My readings were in the middle of that range with the engine at idle and no accessories activated, at idle with blower, headlights, radio and rear defroster activated, and with those same accessories activated under increased/cruising RPM. I'm not understanding why it's even necessary to have the alternator checked by someone else. What am I not getting about this?

Bennie, the charge rate was a little higher (like 14.28v) when the RPM was bumped up a lot higher. Active surveillance is the plan of action. Again, this was some major acting out due to a failing battery.

I ran the checks suggested above. The multi-meter reading was 14.25V at idle, and a little higher when I increased RPM. When I think about how the old battery failed, I have to wonder if a component within the battery may have been compromised in a way that caused the intermittent problems with the instruments and engine idle/performance. Presumably there are controls for these systems that are electronic, which were impacted by the battery's fatal issues. For now, it appears the alternator is working properly and that the weak old battery finally gave up. P.S. While searching craigslist for parts, I found a like new complete 2003 Legacy shop manual set for cheap. I'm in the process of arranging to complete the deal.

The new battery has resolved the trouble for now. I'm not by any means convinced that this was the problem, but it may take some driving to recreate it. I ran errands today and also let the car sit for about 45 minutes with the radio going. I had forgotten that several months ago I had an appointment and a passenger in the car waited outside. It took a good 30-45 minutes and when I got back out to the car, it was dead simply from having the radio on (and whatever else might be operable with the key in that position). So the old battery was for sure on its way out. The colder temps this time of year likely put it over the edge. I've had batteries fail on me in different ways over the years, but most have been fine one day and dead the next without any warning signs. I had a '64 Ford Galaxie that developed an intermittent loud hum in the radio before the battery failed, but the engine issue along with the dead instrument panel and radio on the Baja was far more dramatic. I'd like to think a new battery has fixed the problem, but there's a reason why you won't find me in Reno or Vegas very often . . . I'll be getting myself a new muti-meter this week to check the alternator. If there's anything more to report, I'll post it here. Thanks for the on-line shop manual resources. I did find a downloadable one that covered 2003, so will use that site for future reference.

I left the Baja on the street yesterday so I could get my other car out. Today I moved it back onto the driveway. It started up fine and I let it run while I moved the other car out of the way. I hopped into the Baja, shifted into 1st and with that the trouble started again. It continued until I had it where I wanted it on the driveway so I could work on it, and I decided to take my foot off the gas and let it struggle. It soon died and there was a new beeping sound I hadn't heard before. I tried to restart it and got just a buzz, like a dead battery. Pulled the battery and took it to an auto parts store for testing. It was dead, but it took a charge, however the diagnosis was that it was shot. I have no reason to think otherwise. It was too late to install the new battery, so I'll do that tomorrow. My multi-meter is kaput so I need to get a new one to check the charging system. With any luck, this may turn out to be the easiest of fixes.

Thanks for all the good advice. One thing that a reply above reminded me about is that ever since I've had the car, the radio has had an issue where, after starting the car, it remains dead even though it was working and turned on when the car last ran. Within a period of half a minute or sometimes as long as a couple of minutes, the radio comes to life and remains operating without any interruptions. It's doesn't bother me enough to try to resolve it. I don't think this is related to the coughing and instrument failure, but I can't trust the radio for any power tests either. Also, I forgot to mention that while everything is dead, the turn signal's flasher module operates with a very rapid clicking sound. I don't know if that information is of any additional use for diagnosing things. I don't have the shop manual for this car. They're prohibitively expensive from what I've seen for sale on line. I have a highly abridged manual from an aftermarket publisher, and it doesn't go into much detail. I'll see what I can find on line for guidance regarding some of the components mentioned above. I haven't been to a wrecking yard in years, so investigating this problem could include a fun outing!

Yesterday my 2003 Baja (non turbo, MT) bucked as I started out from a stop and continued to have power loss issues as I shifted through the gears. At the same time, the radio went silent and all instruments/indicators dropped down to their at-rest positions. At a stop, the engine idle was slow and stumbling. I was only several blocks from home, so turned around and crawled back. The instruments and radio started working again and engine response coincidentally improved for a few brief periods as I drove. When I got home I checked the battery terminal connections and they were solid. Any ideas on what might be wrong? I don't remember seeing the MIL come on after any of these events, so I'm not sure if any trouble code may have been recorded. I'd like to know what I might be getting myself into with regard to a repair bill if this turns out not to be a DIY fix. I bought this car three years ago and it hasn't needed anything. It has 127K miles on it.

Thanks, and yes, it's a manual trans. I swear I saw pictures on this operation somewhere and it appeared that the only tricky part was fishing the wires up and over the housing, otherwise it was a quick repair. This is why I was skeptical of the 1.5 hour labor quote. Thanks for confirming.

Greetings all -- I just joined USMB due to the increasingly low activity level on Baja-focused Scoobytruck site forum. I need to replace the back-up lamps switch on my 2003 Baja but have not found any useful information on the process through on-line posts (even after doing a search here) or videos. My Chilton repair manual is little help with regard to this job. I swear I had seen something on this repair in the past, and it didn't seem that difficult. I was planning to do it myself. The reason I'm asking for advice is because I recently brought my Baja to the dealership for the Takata air bag recall and asked them to check the switch. They confirmed it was bad and gave me a quote for the work that included 1.5 hours of labor. I didn't think this job was so complicated as to require that amount of time to perform it. Can anyone advise me, or steer me to a site or video that speaks to this repair? Thanks, Ralph