abentz
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Posts posted by abentz
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On 7/19/2019 at 2:47 PM, carfreak85 said:
This seems like the most obvious place for an issue to crop up. Drilled before or after the tires were mounted and balanced?
One of them was drilled after the tires were mounted and balanced.
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I have read a few threads on the death wobble topic and would like to gather a couple opinions based on my situation.
'82 Brat, 4 inch lift, 6 lug conversion, rusty p.o.s..
So right around 35 miles an hour I start to get a bad wobble. The sweet spot is around 35-50 mph. The wobble increases when I let off the gas and decreases when I accelerate. The wobble is not correlated with braking, it actually decreases when braking. When I reach highway speeds it's less intense, but still not confidence inspiring. It feels like it is coming from the front drivers side. I hear a clicking noise when I do sharp, slow turns to the left. I have autozone CV axles because it have not been able to source any OEM axles in Utah.
My current thoughts: bad inner joint on the drivers side CV axle. Or maybe I did a bad job when I did the 6 lug redrill as it's not perfectly centered.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
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I have looked through a few forums on adjusting drum brakes, but am a little confused.
Can someone help me understand how to adjust these things? I have attached a photo to be able to see what I am dealing with.
1982 Brat.
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13 hours ago, DaveT said:
That brake rotor does not look good. The shiny / wear area should go a lot further in to the center.
Yup, gotta swap those out too. Pretty bad.
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Noted.
Scott from SJR said the same thing as everyone above.
I have ordered new cone washers and will make sure the torque specs are good.
Thanks for the advice.
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Second gen brat. The other day I was driving and heard some crunching from the passenger wheel well and figured my CV axle had finally gone. The boot was torn and I was waiting for it to happen. I put it in 4wd to get it home, which luckily was around the block. Just took off the hub and noticed the splines are very stripped. This is the same problem I had to fix on the drivers side to get the thing running again. This brat came with 4" (ish) SJR lift blocks that seem to make the wheels tilt in excessively.
The question here: are the SJR blocks throwing the geometry off so much that this problem will just keep happening (stripped hubs)? Is there a solution besides just taking them off?
Thanks!
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Anyone have part numbers for the guide pin boots for an 82 brat?
Or a place to source?
Thanks!
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I bled the system more this time using a bottle with brake fluid in it with the hose running from the bleeder valve into the bottle.
I got really good flow and air out of the system on all but the right front. It seems clogged? or it is just not getting any pressure.
Next step when I get back in town in two days will be to bleed the MC. I will also check the hill holder.
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18 hours ago, idosubaru said:
that master cylinder has bleeder screws on it and i've never seen that on any 1980's EA82, ER27, or 1990-present EJ, EG, EZ subaru's so you might want to make sure you're bleeding it right or otherwise understanding what part those MC bleeder screws may, or may not, play in it.
LT has a good point - do the brake lines go above the gas tank and is there any rust under the vehicle?
like LT said two posts ago - an initial leak will be just enough for the pedal to do what you're describing but you won't notice a leak until it springs huge and gushes out from over the gas tank if they're routed above it. so if it's got some rust back there and the lines go above the gas tank this is possible. the fluid will just pool up on top and get absorbed by years of dirt and dust and takes a good bit before it finally will start running down the sides or it blows a larger hole through the rust and starts spraying further and larger quantities.
The brake lines do not go above the gas tank. They look pretty good, can't see any rust surprisingly.
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1 hour ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:
no sign of brake fluid dripping anywhere?
does kinda seem like master cylinder could be at fault - very old car, sitting unused for a long time....add full travel pedal excursions and I could see the MC seals being bad.
The only place that looks relatively damp is where the master cylinder and the brake booster connect? I have attached pictures, but can't really see much in this photo.
Another thing I keep wondering about is what appears to be a part a piece of steel brake line that I have found in the engine bay. After following the brake lines I cannot see where it would connect, but maybe I am missing something. Photo also attached.
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6 minutes ago, idosubaru said:
The master cylinder is moving fluid, subaru MC's fail so rarely I wouldn't replace it without compelling evidence which I don't see so far here.
if the system was opened it will take FOREVER to bleed. in some cases i've used two large cans to bleed a completely open system before. if you're toying around with a tiny amount of fluid and little bottle you're probably not bleeding it enough. also if you let it get too low while bleeding it sucks in more air and you gotta start over.
you may be introducing air as you bleed, we can't see how you're doing it or the condition of the screws.
if you have bad bleeder screws - replace them.
***What is the history of the brake system? Have you ever known it to work properly? Has it sat unused for 30 years? was it previously worked on? was it low on fluid?
Ok, I will try and bleed the system more.
The bleeder screws seem fine to me, I picked out any debris that was in them and they are letting fluid pass through.
History of the brake system- I just bought the car 2 months ago after knocking on someone's door asking if the Brat sitting in their driveway was for sale. The car had been sitting there for about 3 years awaiting a new hub that had stripped. The brakes were removed from the rotors for most of that time I am assuming. The handbrake seems to work just fine. That's really all I know about it for now.
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On 7/21/2018 at 3:43 PM, Jmpjose said:
Make sure you have a vacuum line to master cylinder. Break pedal will sink to floor if this is disconnected. This happened to me
Everything looks connected to me.
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On 7/21/2018 at 11:28 AM, skishop69 said:
You can't bleed brakes on your own unless you have a check valve bleeding hose. Without that, someone has to pump the pedal 3x and hold on the third while the other person opens the bleeder screw while holding. Close the screw and then release the pedal. Repeat until no air comes out of that circuit.
Ok, so I went back and bled all of them the right way, as you described. I did not see much air in the system, but bled each brake for a while.
I am beginning to think now that the master cylinder could be at fault, bc there seems to be no air in the system.
Thanks for the reply, and bare with me as I am learning new processes.
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3 hours ago, djellum said:
how are you bleeding, having someone work the pedal, gravity, vacuum pump?
did you replace the front brakes? if so how did you open up the caliper to reset it for new pads?
ive had them take a bit of doing, you think theres no more air but then you find a big bubble.
I am working the pedal myself, with the occasional help of a friend.
I did replace the front brakes, to open the calipers I used a kit from Autozone and twisted the calipers into the pistons.
How long are you talking for a bubble to come thru?
To clarify, the brakes aren't just soft, the pedal goes down to the floor easily every time.
Thanks for the reply.
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11 hours ago, el_freddo said:
Start by adjusting the rear shoes. These are done manually via a small square headed bolt that could be covered by a rubber boot. Many lose this boot and are more than likely seized.
Cheers
Bennie
Ok, I will look into this. Thanks!
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82 Brat. I finally replaced most thing I needed to get the thing going, then realized my brake pedal goes to the floor.
I have read some forums about bleeding the brakes, and I have been trying to do that. I did it from RR LF LR RF. The back ones seemed to bleed just fine, but I am not really getting much fluid out of the front ones. Cleaned out the bleeders best I could, still not much.
Any suggestions on where to continue? Replace master cylinder?
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Recently bought an 82 brat. Engine runs well, but need to replace a stripped hub to be able to drive it. I am replacing the bearings and ball joint while I am at it. I noticed there was only an outer seal and no spacer between the two bearings (just the built in spacing of the knuckle). Is this normal? Or should I buy both an inner and outer seal?
Also would buys some hubs if anyone has any that reads this.
Thanks!
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Looking for front hubs
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Thanks for all your replies. After discussing with the owner more, he is positive it is because one of the hubs is worn and the axle won't catch. Trying to find hubs for this car seems to be a little tricky. Can I be safe to assume that any Brat from 81-84 or any GL wagon from 80-84 will have the right hubs for this 82 brat?
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My first instinct is a broken transmission.
You mentioned AWD instead of 4WD is this the S/R automatic trans and Turbo 1.8?
When you drained the transmission fluid, did chunks of metal come out too?
I am pretty sure it is a manual ( I haven't seen much of the car, but when I briefly talked to the owner he mentioned no turbo).
I have not drained the transmission bc I have not bought or done any work on the car yet.
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Sounds like either an axle issue, or more likely, a stripped hub. Something is broken on one side, so because of the differential you get no drive to the other , non broken side.
If you can, have a helper sit in the car and try to drive forward in Front wheel drive. Watch the large center axle nut in the middle of the front wheels. You may have to remove hub caps or center caps if it has em.
If either axle is spinning in the hub you have a stripped hub.
If not, repeat the test and open the hood and watch the Inner CV cups to see if either is spinning. If one is, that is a broken axle.
Ok thank you, good to know the procedure if it is an axle issue.
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I am looking to purchase an 82 Brat. Here is the issue it has: the front wheels do not engage. The car therefore cannot be driven in normal AWD, but the back wheels will engage when locked into 4WD. The owner says that he thinks it is something with the axle being worn out and not fitting into the hub, and purchased an axle to replace the worn one, but never got around to doing so.
My concern is that the axle is not the problem. One source told me that I should assume it will need a new transmission. Looking around, I thought that it could also maybe be the front diff, or the transfer case.
Any feedback would be great before I pull the trigger.
Thanks!
'82 Brat death wobble
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
It is an SJR lift. Yes the strut/rod transmission crossmember brackets are spaced down from the body. Individual blocks.