abentz

It is an SJR lift. Yes the strut/rod transmission crossmember brackets are spaced down from the body. Individual blocks.

One of them was drilled after the tires were mounted and balanced.

I have read a few threads on the death wobble topic and would like to gather a couple opinions based on my situation. '82 Brat, 4 inch lift, 6 lug conversion, rusty p.o.s.. So right around 35 miles an hour I start to get a bad wobble. The sweet spot is around 35-50 mph. The wobble increases when I let off the gas and decreases when I accelerate. The wobble is not correlated with braking, it actually decreases when braking. When I reach highway speeds it's less intense, but still not confidence inspiring. It feels like it is coming from the front drivers side. I hear a clicking noise when I do sharp, slow turns to the left. I have autozone CV axles because it have not been able to source any OEM axles in Utah. My current thoughts: bad inner joint on the drivers side CV axle. Or maybe I did a bad job when I did the 6 lug redrill as it's not perfectly centered. Any advice would be much appreciated.

I have looked through a few forums on adjusting drum brakes, but am a little confused. Can someone help me understand how to adjust these things? I have attached a photo to be able to see what I am dealing with. 1982 Brat.

Yup, gotta swap those out too. Pretty bad.

Noted. Scott from SJR said the same thing as everyone above. I have ordered new cone washers and will make sure the torque specs are good. Thanks for the advice.

Second gen brat. The other day I was driving and heard some crunching from the passenger wheel well and figured my CV axle had finally gone. The boot was torn and I was waiting for it to happen. I put it in 4wd to get it home, which luckily was around the block. Just took off the hub and noticed the splines are very stripped. This is the same problem I had to fix on the drivers side to get the thing running again. This brat came with 4" (ish) SJR lift blocks that seem to make the wheels tilt in excessively. The question here: are the SJR blocks throwing the geometry off so much that this problem will just keep happening (stripped hubs)? Is there a solution besides just taking them off? Thanks!

Thank you!

Anyone have part numbers for the guide pin boots for an 82 brat? Or a place to source? Thanks!

I bled the system more this time using a bottle with brake fluid in it with the hose running from the bleeder valve into the bottle. I got really good flow and air out of the system on all but the right front. It seems clogged? or it is just not getting any pressure. Next step when I get back in town in two days will be to bleed the MC. I will also check the hill holder.

The brake lines do not go above the gas tank. They look pretty good, can't see any rust surprisingly.

The only place that looks relatively damp is where the master cylinder and the brake booster connect? I have attached pictures, but can't really see much in this photo. Another thing I keep wondering about is what appears to be a part a piece of steel brake line that I have found in the engine bay. After following the brake lines I cannot see where it would connect, but maybe I am missing something. Photo also attached.

Ok, I will try and bleed the system more. The bleeder screws seem fine to me, I picked out any debris that was in them and they are letting fluid pass through. History of the brake system- I just bought the car 2 months ago after knocking on someone's door asking if the Brat sitting in their driveway was for sale. The car had been sitting there for about 3 years awaiting a new hub that had stripped. The brakes were removed from the rotors for most of that time I am assuming. The handbrake seems to work just fine. That's really all I know about it for now.

Everything looks connected to me.

Ok, so I went back and bled all of them the right way, as you described. I did not see much air in the system, but bled each brake for a while. I am beginning to think now that the master cylinder could be at fault, bc there seems to be no air in the system. Thanks for the reply, and bare with me as I am learning new processes.

I am working the pedal myself, with the occasional help of a friend. I did replace the front brakes, to open the calipers I used a kit from Autozone and twisted the calipers into the pistons. How long are you talking for a bubble to come thru? To clarify, the brakes aren't just soft, the pedal goes down to the floor easily every time. Thanks for the reply.

Ok, I will look into this. Thanks!

82 Brat. I finally replaced most thing I needed to get the thing going, then realized my brake pedal goes to the floor. I have read some forums about bleeding the brakes, and I have been trying to do that. I did it from RR LF LR RF. The back ones seemed to bleed just fine, but I am not really getting much fluid out of the front ones. Cleaned out the bleeders best I could, still not much. Any suggestions on where to continue? Replace master cylinder?

Recently bought an 82 brat. Engine runs well, but need to replace a stripped hub to be able to drive it. I am replacing the bearings and ball joint while I am at it. I noticed there was only an outer seal and no spacer between the two bearings (just the built in spacing of the knuckle). Is this normal? Or should I buy both an inner and outer seal? Also would buys some hubs if anyone has any that reads this. Thanks!

Looking for front hubs

Thanks for all your replies. After discussing with the owner more, he is positive it is because one of the hubs is worn and the axle won't catch. Trying to find hubs for this car seems to be a little tricky. Can I be safe to assume that any Brat from 81-84 or any GL wagon from 80-84 will have the right hubs for this 82 brat?

I am pretty sure it is a manual ( I haven't seen much of the car, but when I briefly talked to the owner he mentioned no turbo). I have not drained the transmission bc I have not bought or done any work on the car yet.

Ok thank you, good to know the procedure if it is an axle issue.

I am looking to purchase an 82 Brat. Here is the issue it has: the front wheels do not engage. The car therefore cannot be driven in normal AWD, but the back wheels will engage when locked into 4WD. The owner says that he thinks it is something with the axle being worn out and not fitting into the hub, and purchased an axle to replace the worn one, but never got around to doing so. My concern is that the axle is not the problem. One source told me that I should assume it will need a new transmission. Looking around, I thought that it could also maybe be the front diff, or the transfer case. Any feedback would be great before I pull the trigger. Thanks!