unibrook
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Posts posted by unibrook
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Worth mentioning here, my 2014 Crosstrek with 32k miles on her, seems to consume a little bit of oil. I don't see any leaks or puddles on the ground, the car runs perfectly and is not noticeably burning oil, but I have to top up the oil every other month. If I do not add oil, the oil light comes on, only at highway speed of around 70mph. The light goes off when my speed drops down. If I ignore it and don't add oil, eventually I get a CEL and the cruise control will not work until I add oil and the oil light and CEL go off.
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I got a new Fumoto valve for the 2014 Crosstrek. From what I can tell, the 2001 Forester takes valve: F105N and the 2014 Crosstrek takes: F108N. They are different sizes.
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I have a 2014 Crosstrek, and since the nav system is about as anti-intuitive as possible, I would have no hope of being able to hear emails via the unit. I applaud your intrepid expectations of the system. :-)
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To help folks compare.....I just did a 360 mile weekend trip in my 2014 regular non-hybrid Crosstrek Premium with 13k miles on her. It was mostly easy, light traffic highway driving. I got over 36 mpg for the trip. Spinning 1800 rpm at 65 mph. Sweet. I am loving the CVT, although you do have to get used to how it behaves when accelerating etc. The more irritating thing to get used to is the steering at highway speeds. I dunno if it is the electric power steering motor or what, but you have to constantly adjust the wheel to keep the car tracking straight at highway speeds. And it takes a bit of work with the hand, not just a one finger gentle type of adjustment. This is only an issue at highway speed, you will not notice it around town.
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Any downside you noticed?
Compared to my 2001 Forester, our 2014 Crosstrek has very few storage cubbies, front and back. Not a dealbreaker, but a noticeable irritant.
Also, I find the steering at highway speeds needs quite a bit of hand effort to keep it tracking straight. Dunno if this is due to the electronic power steering motor or what.
But this is not something you will notice around town. Otoh, I got over 36 mpg on my highway trip of 360 miles recently. So, I love the CVT. It has plenty of power for our family use. We are not hauling heavy loads and don't feel the need for a bigger engine.
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Do the paddles help lock in a ratio that will help avoid that "high rev/no speed increase/CVT rubber band effect" when trying to accelerate at around 40mph to merge onto highway?
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isn't there 3 keys that the vehicle comes with? 2 electronic keys and 1 plain sinple key (forgot what they are called). the only bad part is that the simple key, you can't open your doors remotely or open the hatch, you gotta do it the old fashion way and open 1 door and then click the unlock button on the door itself to open the rest..
That 3rd key is the valet key.
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Good tip, thanks. Yep, that seatbelt chime is irksome. Nice to know there is a cure if I get irritated enough by it.
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We ended up buying a 2014 Crosstrek. Wife liked the visibility and seating position much better in it than the Outlander Sport, CX-5, and Escape we test drove. One thing you will notice and miss in the Crosstrek vs the old Forester.....the Crosstrek has a distinct lack of storage cubby spots. I loved that the Forester was loaded with these. Oh well, I will adjust.
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Oh, and another tip. Do not take your wife into the dealer with you to buy the car. Once the sales guy sees your wife sitting at the table, he knows you will pay full sticker price.
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I bought my new XV Crosstrek last month after years of wanting a Subaru. I wanted an Outback for the longest time, but after driving the Crosstrek I fell in love with it. I bought it because my new job is causing me to put a ton of miles on a vehicle and I knew from research that you can pile miles on Subarus and still have something worth driving. I went back to the dealer today for my first service (3600 miles) and the only complaint I have is that occasionally when sitting in traffic, the engine will miss and the car will shudder. Twice this has happened and I thought someone had bumped me from behind. It doesn't throw any codes and no check engine light comes on, so I knew the dealer would have trouble diagnosing this. Of course, they said they couldn't find anything wrong. Has anyone else had this happen to them? At first I thought it was happening when the AC compressor would cycle, but I have experienced this with the AC compressor on and off, so that's not it. I haven't experienced any trouble with initial cranking like others have posted, only this occasional engine miss. Anyway, I love that litte car and unlike some of the reviews, I don't feel its underpowered at all. The Outback 2.5 I drove did feel underpowered and that was the deciding factor on the XV.
My 2001 Forester did that occasional shudder thing (slight misfire??) the entire time I owned it....from 75k to 145k miles. Never did figure out what caused it.
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Well, I used to own the Fumoto, since it was installed in my 2001 Forester for the last 10 years. And I loved it. So easy and clean to change oil with it.
But yesterday we sold the Forester with Fumoto, and bought a 2014 Crosstrek. So now I will get a new Fumoto for the newer car.
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Wife finally got fed up with my chasing tranny problems. She twisted my arm and forced an upgrade to a 2014 Crosstrek. Sold the old Forester to the dealer for $200.
On to the next chapter of Subaru Love....
:-)
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Great points guys, thanks for this input. I will post back here with a fix when I get it.
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Does anyone know if my old Fumoto valve from my 2001 Forester will fit a 2014 Crosstrek?
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It just seems odd that the pedal is not soft....if the problem is the Master cyl. Hmmmmm....
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Well, I guess I can replace the Master ... again. It was an aftermkt part. But I did it only 6 months ago. And I am not getting soft pedal symptom at all.
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Especially after the engine has warmed up, it is very difficult to shift into gear. And grinds when I try to shift into reverse.
I have recently replaced the Slave and the Clutch Hose, neither of those made a difference. I replaced the Master in October.
Could it be the trans fluid causing this issue? It was last changed at 110k.
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This is precious! Here is Seller's response when I asked for more data regarding the accident, what repairs done, any receipts, Carfax etc.
He responded, "People asked to many stupid questions it's not for sale any more. "
Yeah, um, it is the questions that were stupid.....
:-)
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Mist the coil and wires at night with the engine running.
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I'm also possibly in the market for a Crosstrek, any thoughts on what I've read about poor acceleration? I don't drive like a leadfoot so having a super punchy car isn't a priority for me, just enough to get a good highway merging when there's a monster hurdling into your rear view mirror. Also I would suspect this would be easier with manual transmission, which I'm also hoping for.
As someone said, it is all relative. Coming from our 2001 Forester 5MT, the new Crosstrek CVT felt like it accelerated much better. So, it feels plenty peppy to us.
If you want to feel sluggish, test a Mitsu Outlander Sport... and I like that car: on the fly selection of FWD, 4WD, 4WD-Locked. Hello? Subaru? Are you listening?
And for acceleration, neither of them could touch the Ford Escape we tested. But, yep, it is all relative.
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Thanks very much for your thoughts. I will ask Seller for more data, Carfax, receipts etc. No doubt, he will have NONE of that available. His command of English seems shaky enough.
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2103 CVT Crosstrek with a rebuilt title.
How bad must the accident have been to require that?
Seller says it was just a fender bender.....but um, why would the title need to say rebuilt?
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Nicely done Vasy! Fumoto valve is the way to go!
Glad to see new models have easy access to Fumoto valve through hole in plastic toboggan....so I don't have to remove it every time I change the oil.
Brake light and car battery replacement notes
in Crosstrek "XV"
Posted
I have a 2014 XV, regular model. The original Panasonic battery lasted 6 yrs and 44k miles, just now replaced it. Was reading 7.68V as I tried to start the car, and it just clicked a few times. Replacing the battery is straightfwd with a small 10mm combo wrench. Your electric rear hatch will not work once you disconnect your old battery, so don't have the new battery sitting back there. Rear brake light bulb was also original and easy enough to replace yourself, but note a couple of things. You want a 10mm socket to remove the two black screws that retain the entire tail light assembly onto the frame, beneath the rear hatch. Once the two screws are removed, you probably want to be wearing grippy gloves as you carefully but firmly pull the entire tail light assembly STRAIGHT back from the care to remove it, NOT out to the side. There are plastic retainer clips inside that you can't see or get at from the outside, and you will crack them if you try to pry the tail light off the car sideways. Capiche?