nathana

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=251985#post251985 I got my haynes and posted about prepping to do the job.

So I got my Haynes and started reading. (it's the 90-98 all legacy models) On 8-13 I can follow those instructions for driveaxle removal (I'll do my front left where the boot is torn) and then the boot replacement (on page 8-15) which includes an inspection. If the CV is wrecked, (after cleaning and degreasing it for inspection), I'll try to find a whole new driveaxle assembly ready to install. It really doesn't look that difficult, this job, but it is going to be the most complicated one I've attempted. I'll have to pick up a few tools for the removal part. I like new tools, though My dad bought me the Haynes as a gift. He was going to buy me one for my dodge truck, but couldn't find it. I searched on my own and found a place called http://www.DiscountAutoRepairManuals.com that had the haynes for my truck at 12.95. That's a darned good price, so I orderred it. Just wanted to give out that address to anyone who might want a manual for a good price.

Any pointers on where to dig up the info/instructions on how to do this? Inexpensive places to get good parts? Cost estimate? Tools?

That sounds like a plan. Weather will be getting very nice soon, much more fun. Any pointers on where to dig up the info/instructions on how to do this? Inexpensive places to get good parts? Cost estimate? Tools?

I have a torn CV boot and would like to replace it. Obviously it looks like the boots you can wrap around and put on without removing the whole wheel, brakes, etc would be a much simpler job. Any opinions on this? Anyone used either? both?

Boy! Embarassment of all embarassments... turns out 3 lugs came loose and merely needed tightening. If that won't leave your cheeks red, I don't know what will. I hadn't checked that since I had just changed the tire and done it myself. Unfortunately it seems the cruddy little tire iron in the under-floor kit doesn't give enough leverage. The torque on the other two was much too low, even though I had gorilla'd them all on with as much strength as I could put into that 12" iron. I still have a torn CV boot, however, and am intersted in finding out the pros/cons of using the split boot to replace it. I'll create another thread for that.

Unfortunately I have no update yet. My only free day to work on it was yesterday and it was pouring down rain and forty-something degrees. Not the best weather for working on a car exposed on a gravel driveway. Now I'm on hold until this coming weekend.

Hopefully I can pull it apart on Sunday or Monday and get to the bottom of this problem. I'm sure I'll be back once I isolate it.

When we found the torn boot, we were also immediately aware of the clutch starting to fail. We kind of decided to cross our fingers and see what developed (both repairs being fairly expensive if not done by us, and my dad's shop being 500 miles away). So far my list of ideas/things to figure out how to check are: Wheel bearings – cv joint – front axle – brake pad debris chunk Checking the brake pads isn't really a problem, but the other three I am going to have to learn how to evaluate, since I know nothing about any of them.

Vehicle: 1996 Subaru Legacy Outback wagon. 2.2L, 5speed, 172+k miles Back story: The vehicle was my mom's, cared for by my dad, and was in good shape when I got it from them a few years ago. Since then the O2 sensors have been replaced, and other regular maintenance with no major mishaps. About 2 months ago while checking it over with my dad, we found the left front CV boot was torn and the brake pad there was wearing slightly tilted. At the same time, we did a clutch cable adjustment, since the clutch was begining to slip. Last week I got a flat, then my donut blew out 100 yards later (this is me screaming) but I got both fixxed and have not noticed any issues with the plugged tire. It's obvious now that I need a new clutch, and so I was commuting from work to home with my wife discussing this possibility (both the idea of paying to have it done and trying to convince my dad to help me do it with his lift and excellent workshop - he's 500 miles away, but it'd be a good excuse for a visit anyway and I figured I could limp the car there if nothing else). So as we discussed our options (paying to repair clutch, repairing it myself, or selling the car) and if I were a superstitious person I'd think the car got annoyed. In the middle of the chat, a loud thumping started from the left front. I tested it in every way I could. I pulled over and drove slowly, checked the tires, and the tires seem fine, no noise at very slow speeds. Here's what I found: - when accellerating, thumping stops - when making engine work to go up hill (similar to accellerating, but no speed increase) thumping stops - curving or turning to the left will make the thumping loud and will make it occur at even lower speeds than required to hear it when going straight - during braking, thumping stops - thumping occurs with or without clutch pedal depressed. The noise is most noticeable above 30 mph, coasting in gear or out of it, and especially pronounced on left-hand curves. It's pretty loud, and I can feel the vibration of it through the floor, but next to nothing through the steering wheel and no noticeable pulling to either side. I may be crazy, but I have this sense that there's something metal rubbing on metal in the thumping (but again, I could be totally crazy and that may not be the case). So now it's temporarily docked until I can figure this out and get it fixed. Then I've got to make the decision on the clutch (the vehicle is otherwise in pretty good shape, with normal older-vehicle issues). This weekend I plan to pull the wheel off, check the brakes, and inspect the previously torn CV boot again. I may have more information then, but I'm also not entirely certain what to be looking for. Any ideas what my new thumping noise is?