CWAIS

This is the final picture it took me a while to get it to send. Its pretty neat to see what kids can do when they have to work together to make things work. Hope you enjoyed the pictures. Chuck

Thank you all for your help. Tore the dizzy apart and put in a new module. Had spark right away, pumped the gas pedal twice and it started right up. I would love to post picture but I am not sure how I can do that on this site. Just so you guys know I understood every word I typed on this topic LOL ( Sorry for the poor description). This engine is suppose to be putting out over 100 HP and we are not there yet. So I will be picking your brains for awhile now if you will let me. Carburetor will be the next part to upgrade. We are running a single barrel chrysler bbs right now going into a ea82 intake. We would like to put a 318 2-barrel carb in but we hear more about the weber 32/36 carb. but we will have to save that for another day. Now that we are back up and running and snow on the way this week I will bring it into school and the kids will all get to drive it on the football field. We also have an EJ 251 engine to rebuild for the next airboat project.

Battery ---key run position --- wire end at coil + ( attached to the end of the wire not to the coil) to light --- to ground on engine. = LIGHT LIGHTS UP Battery ---key run position --- to wire end at coil +( attached to the end of the wire not to the coil) to light --- then to coil (+) terminal( with all wires hooked up to coil and dizzy) = NO LIGHT Battery ---key start position (cranking) - to solenoid --- to wire end at coil + ( attached to the end of the wire not to the coil) --- to light - to ground on engine. = LIGHT LIGHTS UP Battery ---key start position (cranking) --- to solenoid --- to wire end at coil + ( attached to the end of the wire not to the coil)--- to light --- to coil (+) terminal (with all wires hooked up to coil and dizzy) = NO LIGHT The circuits that light up I am just saying that I have power all the way to the coil (+) terminal, starting and run position. The coil seems to test out ok When the the lead is hooked up to the positive terminal on coil there is no complete circiut so the light did not go on, not even when cranking. So I am thinking it must be the module in the dizzy. A new ignition module was dropped at my house today so if we can get the reluctor off without breaking something else we will put it in tonight. Hope this helps

Jono - meter readings were posted earlier in #6 if there is something else that you would like me to test I will. I was using the the light tester because that was what NARU had asked me to do. Thanks for your input.

Hopefully I can answer all the questions. Coil is an ACCEL Super Stock 8140 Test Primary at 200 ohms on multi meter =1.2 Test Secondary at 20K ohms on multi meter = 9.14 (9,140) Next Battery ---key run position --- wire end at coil + to light --- to grd. = LIGHT LIGHTS UP Battery ---key run position to wire end at coil to light to coil (+) with all wires hooked up = NO LIGHT Battery -key start position (cranking) - to solenoid - to wire end at coil + to light - to grd. = LIGHT LIGHTS UP Battery ---key start position (cranking) to wire end at coil --- to light --- to coil (+) with all wires hooked up = NO LIGHT Next Checked wire from coil + to ignition module in distributor = Good Checked wire from ignition module in distributor to coil - = Good Distributor Cardone 31-810 remanufactured Thanks for all your help hopefully you can keep coming up with ideas to try

Dave so you are saying that we should connect one end of the light to the pos and the other end to the neg terminals of the coil while cranking. This distributor has an ignition module no points so we should connect the light to the two terminals on the module? Sorry for the confusion but I want to make sure that I state it correctly to my student.

Hooked the pos. lead to the pos. terminal on the coil and grounded the neg while cranking. In the run position on the key switch I had 11.60 and in the start position 9.72V while cranking.

Knucklehead nothing in the dark, zero voltage while cranking with meter leads on the + and - posts on the coil. When I checked the primary with an ohms meter I had 0.003. So are you saying that it is the icm in the distributor? Irgvanman - We have a resister but that is being used during the run position and has a split wire that jumps in after the resister on its way to the coil (+) coming from the (I) terminal on the ignition solenoid. So during starting the coil is receiving full voltage.

Look up ea81 stratus engine. There should be some sites that will help you with info. They say it will put out about 110 hp but I think it is more like 100 hp. I think the cam is the key, Weber carb, larger exhaust headers ( h- pipe just below the oil pan) 1.75" and a ea82 intake. I think that is most of it off the top of my head. Good luck

I am new to this forum so thank you for letting me in. I am a Technology and Engineering teacher in a small town in Wisconsin. We do not have an auto program here but we do a few projects with engines. Our last project was an airboat, we built everything; the alum. hull, cage , stand, trailer. We powered the airboat with an EA81 Stratus engine, redrive and warpdrive 3 blade prop. We rebuilt the engine, got it finished and it ran great, no choking on starts it just fired right up and purred like a kitten. Has new plugs (gapped correctly), new wires, new coil, new distributor, new starter solenoid and new battery. Like I said it ran great, so I go to start it on a 60 degree day and it won’t start, tried again and again, then all of a sudden while turning the key back to the run position it starts. Let it run for a 15mins and shut it down. Next day I put a spark light between the spark plug and wire on #1 . Went to start it same thing, no spark (fuel pump is running and is getting fuel when I pump the pedal). Multiple times this happens then out of the blue it starts. We are running a split wire to the coil +. Run position with a resister and a starter wire coming directly from the ignition post on the starter solenoid. I did try a new key switch with the same results. So that you know once this engine starts it runs great and I can shut it off start it up without any problems but if it sits for 3 or 4 hours it becomes the same old thing. Could this be a problem with the coil, maybe the ignition module in the dizzy or just a grounding problem ( we have retraced ever wire multiple times. Tested the coil today zero on primary, 9.560 on secondary Any help would be greatly appreciated Thank you Chuck