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Combaticu5

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Posts posted by Combaticu5

  1. Hey GD, it's been a while and I replaced that old Hitachi for a weber and with a little work understanding the emission deletes it runs perfect! I'm so glad I did it. OEM is cool but not after messing with a Weber.  I went with a manual choke and some days I question if auto. Would've been better. OUt the door like $400 with adapter hoses etc. Worth it.

    @GeneralDisorder

  2. On 6/14/2018 at 8:32 PM, wagons said:

    I've rebuilt these carbs so many times, and I found the easiest way to get them running perfect! Throw the SOB away! Follow exactly what GD says and never look back. No instructions are needed, if you need detailed ones follow jeszeks "ideas on swapping a Weber" thread. Buy a true made in Spain Weber, not an INTERCO Weber like I got ripped off on. It runs great, but let's face it, it's not a weber. One instruction I will say follow, plug carb warmer hole with jb weld aluminium/steel stick then mill it and the intake manifold flange flat. If you don't, leaks will find you fast.

     

    On 6/13/2018 at 9:53 PM, GeneralDisorder said:

    I've done about 40-50 of these swaps. Directions are not required. Neither is a kit. Get the carb, adapter, and low profile air filter. On the EA82 you will want a 60 or 65 idle jet. Rip off everything that isn't the manifold itself. Throw it all away. Run a vac line to the distributor. Tune idle mixture and speed. 

    GD

     

     

  3. Thanks you guys for the help! A weber seems to be the way of the future.  A couple more questions though. My engine is an ea81 so is a jet swap necessary like GD said for an ea82?. My altitude is around 3500ft if that matters lol.  Also my carb has an 1/8th inch spacer between it and the manifold. Is it Stock? And should I leave it on with the weber adapter? I've heard some carbs use risers for better fuel mixture to the intake.  

  4. 2 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:

    Carb is clapped out. Get a Weber. 

    Understanding it isn't require. It's a carb - it works on venturi's, pressure differential, emulsion tubes, and jets (orifices) just like all the others. It's clapped out and no amount of futzing with it will magically turn it into a Weber. Don't waste your time. 

    GD

     

    1 hour ago, Subasaurus said:

    the problem with those Hitachi Carbs is that they are made to work with the emission crap on it, as much as im an original freak at keeping a vehicle as original as possible, unfortunately after many, many months of tinkering with my Hitachi, i never could get it to work smoothly for more than 40minutes. i would go to walmart, and have to tune it again before leaving, i would leave work and time to tune it again, i would bottom out on the idle mixture at times just to get it to somewhat run right. all the calibrations shifted horribly on mine from day to day.

    the hardest thing about the whole conversion will be removing all the emission stuff, but after hours of doing the conversion on mine, first crank, and it started right up, with a growling sound too like the old carb was stealing so much power from it. $300 dollars is alittle harsh but its actually worth it at the end, i was a non believer at first, but i don't regret one bit of all the work i did to it.

     

     

    Thanks for your guys' input. I'm glad I'm not the only one having trouble with this. Hard to tell if people still have these problems because most posts are ancient.  When you both put your weber's on did you follow any directions or just muscle through it? I'm hoping there is some diagrams or explanations out there to delete the emissions stuff. 

     

  5. Hey guys here with another hitachi carburetor quandary.  I feel like I've been up and down these forums for fixing my cars running issue but I cant figure it out. I've got an 88 gl hatch with 150,000 miles that's been sitting for a few years. My Impreza was stolen so I decided to get this thing up and running.  With just adding new gas and a battery it fired right up and ran decent.  Because it sat for so long I went and changed the fuel filters. The distributor and cap are in great shape as well as wires and plugs.  Because I was pretty sure the carb had never been removed i decided to rebuild it.  I went through all the steps and got it back on in only a few days but now it's running rough.  It won't idle unless its past 1200rmp and won't start without some gas pedal action. Also it seems to be misfiring quite bad. The spark plugs are gray implying its lean and the main jet sputters more than "jets."  I'm not sure what to do. Here is a list of things I've tried.

    -vaccum leaks checked (none that I can find with propane)

    -adjusted the float to run more rich. (It just dies)

    -re-blewout all the vacuum lines and jets on the carb.

    -adjusted the timing to the FSM on each new adjustment.

    -and I've adjusted the idle mixture screw with nothing happening.  This seems to be very odd to me. It should kill it if it's too rich or lean but I can screw it in all the way until it bottoms out our take it out completely with no difference.  

    My suby has been down now for over a month with little to no change. I'll probably buy a weber conversion in the end but I want to understand this dreaded Hitachi and why it's not working.  Please help!

     

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