koolminx
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Posts posted by koolminx
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Found in oil pan, thin curled up metal.
I haven’t been inside a Subaru before so I lean on you guys for thoughts.
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Just in case anyone is Actualy reading this Here are the sticker numbers off the Impreza first followed by the Forester.
681168 4A-TY754VSBAA
342145 67-TY754VCAAB
Thank you yet again
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I have a bad tranny in an 01 Forester, have a good tranny (if a little loud) from an 01 Impreza RS.
Where do I find the final drive ratios to ensure this tranny will work in the Forester without binding up things? I do not have the Impreza to check it's numbers, I only have the Impreza tranny.
Thanks!
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The timing marks on the Craig and both cams are good the bolts holding the cam sprockets in place are intact the Locking pins on the camshaft holding the camshaft sprockets in place are good this is not a timing event this is an electrical event and I am just missing something but I will find it
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Just a thought and this might be a stupid question, but did you check that all three of the plugs (on the engine) for the ecu are plugged in?
Yes everything is plugged in and it is not a stupid question
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, why should I scope the crank and cam sensor with both the crank sensor and the cam sensor are new and the cam sensor is brand-spanking-new right out of the box and the cam sensor is off a running driving motor this issue if not the crank of a cam sensor in the does not need a scope for that particular thing while the engine cranks it gets no signal but as soon as it is released it gets crank signal so between the ACM and the crank signal to the injectors what causes the injectors to flash because I have literally had the key in the on position and jumpered the crank signal down at the solenoid on the starter and it still does not Flash the injectors until after the engine stops turning.
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Okay boys let's open up this can of worms new crank sensor new cam sensor timing marks Dead on new computer new computer control relay crank the motor nothing happens release the key and on the last movement of the motor the Noid light flashes twice for the injectors tell me what the problem is
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Those are some very good and valuable questions to ask :-) and thank you for mailing that to me I will be extremely pleased when I plug it in and this car fires up :-)
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Have you checked the self shutoff circuit? Pin 86
Not getting 12 volts to that pin can cause some craziness if i understand correctly, in fact the car won't start at all and is tied into the main relay.
If i recall it's a red wire with yellow stripe, and maybe one of the thicker ones
I will check in the morning if i can find where the darn wire is on the harness. ????????????
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Ohhh, okay, i misread, i get what youre saying now. My apologies
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Technically I think the ECU relay failure was the thing that gave up the ghost the day my son was driving it because when I was previously diagnosing the car I would receive a solder two injector code while cranking it with annoyed like in sonar to us injector and I also received the code prior to the final failure of the crank sensor being out of whack when I had the crank sensor unplugged
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And I fully understand your sentences about the diagnostic path And discussing with the customer the issues that they experienced. Now as far as my son is concerned spoob he could have been going straight downhill at 250 miles per hour and then just coasted in to the store parking lot when it died but it was a really convoluted parking lot so I kind of believe his story that he drove and then parked when inside came back out and it wouldn't start so he jumped it with the spare battery he keeps in the car and he play with it for about a half hour and it still wouldn't start and then he came to me I told that sucker home after doing a thousand different things to it LOL so now I'm waiting on this computer from spark boy and hopefully she'll fire right up if not I think there's going to be an accidental fire in my driveway from a spilling of two or three hundred gallons of unleaded LOL
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Additionally it was a very long cranking session before the car would start and it would usually only start when the battery got down to 10 volts or maybe even a little bit less right before it would cease to crank and then it would fire up but it would always run extremely smoothly once the load from the alternator smooth out after recharging but even then there was no ill functioning of the computer running the motor at all no misfiring no weeks throttle nothing that would seem unto word other than hard cranking and then finally starting at the end of its life or near the end of its life of cranking. This happened over a period of time but maybe a month and a half it had to be cranked longer and longer and longer and then finally it just wouldn't start after my son drove it to the store
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On this particular model I must beg to differ. If I have no check engine light and then I unplug the crank sensor and crank the motor over I will get it check engine light and the code will be for the crank sensor. If I clear the code and then crank the motor over with the crank sensor plugged in that code goes away showing that the computer does recognize that the crank sensor was in or out of the system I eat working correctly or not working being it became an open circuit. The same goes with the cam sensor and the idle air control that I got yesterday when I was diagnosing and playing with the car. The Idler control I believe was a P0505
Once these items for plugged back in the code was cleared and when I crank the motor again the code did not reappear
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You know what? Both of you too have made a strong point and by the way thank you for that schematic you typed up for me that was beautiful!!!!
The strong point being that it was my son driving the damn car and he could be lying his rump roast off about what happened or how he was driving to the store before it failed to start when he came out. But I strongly doubt that it is a jumped timing although I will verify just as soon as the rain stops LOL
Being an old mechanic and having been around Vehicles a long long time it does not sound like it's cranking out of time but I will verify just in case I'm just praying that it's a shart computer...
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A spark boy I think I'll take you up on your offer of that ECM my ECM model is one digit off of yours but everything so far from 7 and 94 which is my production date as well has said it's the 22611 ab414 my computer's an ab415 but I don't think that's going to have any detrimental effects
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One diagram has them numbered left to right, the other right to left.... 95 is a goofy rump roast year so far
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And in this case, Both 6 and 8 pins had right around 6 or 7 volts, because I was probing everything... LOL
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WAIT, I got it~ theres 16 slots, but 12 wires in my top row, OK I understand now.
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Sorry General but I MUST disagree here...
If I DID that then the numbers 15 and 16 the large yellow wires would NOT be 15 and 16 they would then be wires 11 and 12 .... Because there's ONLY 12 wires in the top row of my ECM, but there are 16 ECU pins....
Right? Wrong? This is general knowledge I thought.... Gawd I'm starting to hate subarus
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I'm going to smoke a cigarette and drink some coffee to relax....
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yeah you got it
look close at the pinout and you will see that the solid parts in the harness are not numbered. So the red is pin 5, green next is 6 and so on. The next wire is 7, which is three spaces down (the row). I know wtf haha?
It wouldn't hurt to take a little piece of masking tape and write what the wire is for the ones you would like to test as you find them. It helps me greatly.
Ignore the silver dots, the only reason I can think of why they even exist is for after they tested them at the factory.
When I did the harness on my ej, I was so lost at one point, I almost gave up and was ready to buy a pre cut one for $200 persistance pays off here.
Make sure that 12v are going to the proper places during cranking too, you might be losing it to the ecu at that point but still getting 12v in run
You're saying count the wires not the pin positions?????? How will that work? I'm dying here... See above illustration and pin marking as per the PDF diagram, if it's number 6 it should be in #6 spot, and so on. But WHICH spot is #6, they'er all blanks....
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FIX MY BRAIN GENTLEMAN
Which pins in my illustration are 5 6 7 8 respectively??? They 5 6 7 8 pins are for the Crank sensor and the Cam sensor as per the above PDF file provided to me for 95 only Subaru legacy...
Why is my PCM not matching ANY of the information subaru has?
I have 3 check engine codes.
Code 1- Crank sensor failure, I got this error by cranking the engine over with the sensor UNPLUGGED in an experiment.
Code 2- IAC failure, same as above, I cranked engine over several times with this unplugged and it set a code, because that's the computers job.
Code 3- Injector 2 failure, because that is where I have the injector unplugged while cranking and using the noid light to check for signal. Once again, this is correct and proper for the system to tell me it's bad when it's unplugged.
ALL 3 codes clear when I plug the sensors back in and clear codes and crank again with everything normal, and there are no error codes present after that. Just to let you know that the ECM is performing it's duties of monitoring for faults and reporting them, and it reports nothing when those components are put back into the system.
OK, now back to the pin wiring as noted above. Who can gimme ideas why my harness is missing them? Is mine supposed to be numbered left to right top to bottom? Right to left top to bottom? Left to right bottom to top? Right to left bottom to top?
And NO I do not have access to an oscilloscope.... My restoration shop is OLD as the hills, but all my SUN equipment went out long ago 8)
As always, thanks for any thoughts
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Conundrum as per this PDF diagram.... http://busaru.com/at...gacy Pinout.pdf
Crank sensor pin 8 and 7 and cam sensor pins 6 and 5 as per the PDF, DO NOT exist on my ECM... They're blank...
ANy thoughts? I will show you my pins in a photo in a second.
Otherwise, I get all the correct voltage as per all yalls instructions to the important parts, yet I still have sporadic spark, but ZERO injector flash on a noid light until after key release as shown in a video I posted several day's ago.
I am beginning to think this ECM is just done working, but need more info before tossing out a few hundred bucks at another no fix situation.
The wiring in this car is UNMOLESTED, there's no freys or cut wires in the engine bay harnesses nor down near the ECM...
Harness pic to follow
WHAT is this metal from?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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