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robm2

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Posts posted by robm2

  1. Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) or Idle Air Controller (IAC).   LIke DaveT says, check the wiring on the CTS.   Same goes for the IAC.  Another thing to try:  The IAC has a stepper motor that opens and closes to provide the correct idle speed.  Shoot it full of carb cleaner, let it soak a bit, and turn the engine on and off a few times to work it. 

  2. If the solenoid is clicking, but the starter won't turn, it may be the contacts inside the starter motor that get made when the solenoid pulls in.  They get worn and burnt.  Tapping on the starter might help a bit, it kind of stirs up the contact so a new bit comes into play, but it only works a few times.     It is probably easier to replace the contacts than it is to find them to purchase....  I did it once on a Loyale, 10 minutes to get the starter out, 10 minute to pull it apart and change the contacts, and 10 minutes more to replace it. 

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  3. 165/80R13 were stock on Loyales in Canada.  They will fit perfectly, if you can get them.   I ran them for years, until they were no longer available, and had to go to 155/80R 13 for snow tires, and 175/70R13 for summers, which reduced the ground clearance, load capacity, and speedometer accuracy. 

  4. 155/80-13's don't have quite enough load rating for the Loyale.

    I use them in the winter (snow tires), as it is cold, I don't go fast (snow and ice, remember?) and I try to keep the load in the car to a minimum.  I also make sure I run them at 36 psi or more, to get full load rating for the tire. 

    175/70-13's have more capacity.  They are are a better bet for summer or year-round tires.

    165/80-13 are ideal, but hard to find.  186/70-13 are good too, but just as hard to find. 

     

     

  5. Interesting.  Jeszek, how many miles/kilometers in that 10 years of use?

    My experience with coverless belts was not as good. 

    One broke at about 60000 km.  A seized oil pump may have been the issue.

    Another stripped at about the same number of km's. 

    On another car, one broke, age unknown.  The PO had assured me the belts were quite fresh when I bought the car. 

     

    My climate is completely different from yours.  Cold, wet, snowy in the winter (down to -20 deg. C) to hot, dry  in the summer (up to 35 deg. C).  I wonder how much that affects the longevity?

  6. Happy to be of service. You can test this by using one of the other relays beside it, in the same clump of 4.  You may lose a headlight, so this is a daylight-only test.  The other relays are identical in every way. 

    The next one to go will be the heater blower relay.  If you can find one of these cars at the wrecker, grab all the relays under the dash, and keep them handy for the next time one dies. 

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  7. As long as you are going in a straight line, you can shift from 2HI to 4HI and back at just about any speed you like.  Just back off on the gas when you do.  Clutch works too, but is not necessary.  I have no experience with 4LO.

    If your tires are not all the same size, it will stick in 4HI.  If this happens, it is time to rotate the tires to even the wear.

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  8. Ouch!  That is half the  cost it was new!

    I suspect your problem is with the fuel pump relay.  They get old and flaky, and stop working.  Often, they are temperature sensitive, although it is usually heat that makes them kick out. 

    It is one of the relays in a group of  4 up under the dash board, above the ECU.  All the relays in that bunch are the same, so you can swap one of the others in to test it. 

    A quick and dirty fix is to run a wire directly from the battery to the red wire on the FP wiring harness.  You can get to it under the back seat, inside the car.  I ran like this for 4 months before I figured out what the problem was.  The pump would work for awhile, then kick out.  I would connect the wire, and carry on.  This was when the relay was flaky, not failed.  I could do this from the driver's seat. 

    Good luck.

     

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