98GT

No, I didn't. I ran out of time that day, then went hunting again for a couple of days. While I was gone, my son made a verbal even trade for a 04 Crown Vic Police interceptor LOL. And I think that transaction is going down tomorrow. So that will officially be the end of this story. I appreciate everyone's input and help on this issue. I updated my first post on this thread to reflect the end, to no ending solution, as I hate reading a lengthy thread only to not find a solution.

So why would they never work for subaru's? This takes me right back to thinking does anything but Subaru work with Subaru? I've had this engine out multiple times. If its the HG's, I'm cutting my losses and being done with it. Maybe he can part it out and make $500 to put down on another simpler car.

Just did another test with engine cooled off. The kit says run it for 10minutes and then test it for 2min. I tested it for 10 minutes with no signs of color change. After that, the system pushed coolant into the tube again. If this type of test is accurate, then I'd say there is not combustion leak, indicating no head gasket leak, right? I am going to do the heater core test next. idosubaru, I'm pretty confident the radiator is not clogged. You can go back to the first post with the video of the water exiting the lower hose, and give me your opinion on it.

new status report. I took it to town, and it still indicated hot by nearly pegging out the gauge. I took temp readings before at normal operating temps for a base line, and again when it was "overheating", with the upper hose swollen. I use quotes because the highest temp I saw was the top center of the engine block at 215*, the heads were 180-190*, the upper hose was 170* , the temp sending unit (which is new) was 179*, and the lower hose was only 80*. I bought a combustion leak detector while in town, and it is not playing nice. The system keeps pushing coolant into the tube, even though the radiator level is a few inches below the neck. The instructions say start out cold and run the engine for 10min before test, but I did it right after pulling in and it was hot. Which I figured was what I needed to do since it only has a problem once it's been out on the road. Any advice on how to make this thing work right? I'm all ears. I will be trying again with a cooler engine though. That does however bring me right back to the same pressure issue it was having before the thermostat swap. On a related note, the car runs great when the gauge is at normal temp, but starts losing power quickly as soon as the gauge starts to climb. What's the relation there I wonder? Thanks for everyone sticking with me on this one. https://flic.kr/p/2bx5VVT

Status report. Took it for a drive, after bring up to temp in the shop. I ran it in manual the entire time keeping the revs high for a couple miles. The gauge fluctuated between normal and high, but it never pegged and quickly dropped to normal range every time it went up. Once I pulled it back it the shop, and opened the hood, it was apparent that it did puke at least once, and the reservoir was full, which was at the cold level when I left. I'm letting it cool off with the front on the car elevated for awhile, then I'll drive it into town. It never got, or stayed hot enough to take temp readings with the gun.

1LT, I have not put any block test fluid. To be honest, I've never heard of it, and had to look it up. The first thing that came to mind was the ole blinker fluid trick lol. I got home late last night, and was cold from being in sub freezing temps for two days, so I didn't even consider going out in a semi cold shop last night. But I'm out here this morning, got the wood stove rolling and I'm fixin to tear into the shitbox again. Just to twist the knife in a festering wound, I found this when I came out this morning. Yeah. He's dreaming on the price, but at least I taught him to start high, because it's hard to get more that you ask for...

The overflow and cap are working properly. I've watched the level come up, then go back down several times.

The 45 prevents it from suctioning to the bottom of the overflow tank.

That's not a bad idea. The heat seems to work fine, so not sure it's blocked, but easy enough to give it a shot!

According to my son, it did not overflow or pull any from the tank this last "overheat". But before the thermostat swap, it was puking coolant.

Did the t-stat, and still over heating. It passed the first short test drive, on Monday, after I installed it. I was in the woods hunting yesterday, when my son took it for a longer drive, and it FAILED! However, he said the gauge pegged out on hot, then within 30 seconds, it dropped back to normal. I thought may be an air bubble passed by the sender, but he drove it again, and it did the same thing, however, he said the upper hose didn't swell this time. As soon as I get home from hunting this afternoon, I'm going to break out the digital thermometer again and get a couple more actual temp readings from the upper hose, the cylinders around the water jackets, AND the sending unit its self. The plugs may have been a little lighter in color. The plugs have less than 100 miles on them. Not sure how long it takes to get a true reading. As far as the heads, I did not have them machined, since the engine had no top end issues, and ran great until it spun a bearing. Plus, I checked them as well as the block for flatness. And yes, multi layer gaskets were used.

I'll call the dealer tomorrow and order one, and cross my fingers that it fixes the problem. I'm not a long time Subaru owner, but I just don't get why these cars are so OEM dependent. And why, if things like the thermostats are so sub-par, the aftermarket isn't forced to pick up their game to make better parts.

Murray, I believe. My boy bought a water pump today, but I'm still not convinced its the pump. I did spin it by hand when the belt was off, and It felt firm. Easy to turn, but no free spin. Are these made like a boat water pump out of rubber, or are they metal fins like the older domestic pumps?

Here's the skinny. The engine in my son's 98 Legacy continues to overheat after we did a short block rebuild. I have done all that I can think of to do as to figuring out what is causing it. The car warms up at idle-2000rpm just fine and cycles the fan and thermostat normally. But when I take the car out on the road, after several minutes, the gauge starts to climb and the upper hose gets swollen and really hot, while the lower hose stays very cool with no pressure on it. After turning off the car, you can hear coolant boiling in the engine and radiator, and it forces coolant out of the neck. into the overflow. Once it all cools down, it works like normal again until I drive it. Oh, and it starts running like crap once the temps go up. I've done several tests including looking for signs of a blown head gasket. So. now I'm looking for some help, before I roll it out in the field and set fire to it. No, seriously, I'm thinking of burning it to the ground, and cutting my losses. Here is what I have done: Flushed the radiator and had good flow. Replaced the new thermostat , with another and tested it before it went in. Jacked the car up, and burped the air out of the system, which it did have a good burp after it was up to temp and I revved it a few time up to 3-4k rpm Compression test. (Result: 190-200PSI) Leak down test. (Result: Pass) Coolant system pressure test with warm engine: (Results: System held pressure and had no sign of coolant in the cylinders) The only thing I haven't done is replace the water pump, which was replaced just before he bought the car. I haven't changed it, because I'm thinking with the pressure in the upper part of the system, tells me the pump is working. UPDATED EDIT: The solution to this problem was never found, as the car was traded off. However, there is a lot of good info here to guide you to a answer, if you're having the same problem, just no final solution. Here's a couple pics/video I managed to take Edit: The gold/brown stuff on the plugs, is anti seize, not oil

GD, I didn't add that the plugs, nor the pistons showed any signs of water intrusion, and the head gaskets are brand new, if that changes your opinion on anything.

Got and update on the current engine issues. I got it pulled out once again, removed the oil pan, which was leaking on the back side...again. Cleaned it up straightened the lip a little here and there, and resealed it. On the stand, and while the timing belt was pulled, I filled it up with oil, pulled the spark plugs, WD-40'd the cylinders, and put a big 1/2 drill motor on the crank bolt and spun that sucker up as fast as it would go, in order to spin the oil pump and build up some crank case pressure. So far no leaks are present. I placed paper towels under the engine covering the area, and will be checking for signs of oil leaks tomorrow. While out, I addressed the loud top end. I carefully went through all 16 valves with my feeler gauges and recorded all the valve lash numbers. I had about a half dozen out of spec. I was able to address the worst ones, 0.06-0.07mm too loose, by swapping around the disks/shims that sit on top of the buckets with each other, bringing them into the proper spec range. I still have 2 or 3 that are 0.01mm too loose, but they will just have to do. And finally I addressed the coolant consumption issue, in what I consider, a thorough way. First, with the engine on the stand, I capped the upper and lower hose necks, as well as one of the heater lines. The other heater line was hooked to a ball valve and male air coupler. After filling the engine up with water, I hooked a regulator to the line, and slowly brought it up to 20psi, closed the ball valve and let it sit for 20 min. Oh, before I pulled the engine, I did get some compression readings. All cylinders were around 200psi, give or take a few psi, so I really had my doubts on a blown head gasket, but did the test anyway. After sitting for 20 min, I hooked the drill up, with the plugs out and spun the engine. ZERO water was present in the cylinders. I preformed the same water/pressure test on the radiator and heater core. The radiator passed with no leaks, but I did have one, somewhat significant leak at a hose connection at the fire wall. While a pretty good leak, It's still hard to believe that it went through 4 gallons of coolant in less than 100 miles, and never left a water spot on the ground. After fixing the leak, I pressurized the system and had a slow leak down on pressure, but no more water leaks present anywhere in the heater core system. So, with that said, I am still a little wary of the coolant situation, but I've done all that I know to do. I'm anxious to get this thing back in the car, but it's looking like it will be Sunday before that will happen. Fingers crossed!

Ive not been able to look at the car yet because I've been pouring concrete in front on my shop this past week. I'll be pulling the car back in the shop on Sunday and getting back on it. I'll be pulling the engine Sunday I hope. Since we rebuilt the engine, the pan was off. He pulled the engine again after discovering the leak, and tried to fix the leak, but obviously didn't seal the pan well enough,,,again! This is why I will be doing it myself this time. As far as the valve tick, since it wasn't ticking before rebuild, and we didnt rebuild the heads, I suspect my son got some of the valve buckets out of place, causing one or more to no longer be in spec. I am hoping I will measure them all, and find one tight, and one loose, and swap them. I'll report back on my findings.

Sorry for the late reply. I broke the screen on my Macbook and have not had a computer for a couple of weeks. After what seemed like hours of backtracking, I discovered the drivers side camshaft sprocket was not installed correctly. I was not present when my son put all the sprockets back on and it was just clockwise off the key way a couple degrees. Something I should have caught early on, but the little pin in the sprocket had pushed out when he tightened the sprocket down, allowing it to spear to seat properly. the pin is not cast into the sprocket, so it is capable of backing out, so that's something people should keep in mind during installation. Now, it runs good, but has a bit more lifter tick than it did before disassembly as well as an oil pan leak that just doesn't want to be fixed. I will be pulling the engine out one last time myself this week to address the leak as well as checking the valve lash and making an attempt to fix that as well. On another note, the weirdest thing was going on with the cooling system. we could never seem to get the air out of the system and over the course of a couple days managed to fit 4 gallons, yes 4 GALLONS, of coolant in the system. I'm pretty sure these engines only take like 2 gallons.... No coolant leaks, internal or external, and no blown head gaskets. Where did the extra 2 gallons go? I have no clue. Anyway Thanks for the replies from you guys, and sorry for the wild goose chase of something that was operator error all along.

Thanks for the suggestions fellas. Even though I have done all of the suggestions, I'm sure one that I haven't tried will pop up eventually. I'm going to pull the intake today and look for a pinched or broken wire in the harness, and basically start back tracking. Also, my son didn't get the oil pan sealed up good, so the engine will be coming back out to fix that. I will do a compression test on it right before that happens as well.

Check, Check, Check, on the hose Did not throw the rod, just spun it and was shut off as soon as the knock was heard Same pulleys that came off and all teeth are good. I tried carb cleaner into the intake with zero change in results Have scanned for codes multiple times. It had a TPS code the first time, but after adjusting it, the code did not return. Tried that one too, with same results.

Yes, it's hooked up.

No, it was not removed. Plus I set it at .5vdc today which is within spec (.45-.55vdc) on the voltage reading.

Here is a 20 second video of it cranking.... https://youtu.be/CwBl8KA9m9Q

Hello all, I'm sorry to have to come here in this fashion, rather than bringing something to the table, but I am at a complete loss and need HELP! My son and I just rebuild the 2.5 in his Legacy after it spun a rod bearing. Before that it ran fine, though he hasn't owned it for very long at all. There are lots of details of headaches and heartaches with this car after buying it from a dishonest seller. However, I won't take you down that rabbit trail. So, the engine will turn over and sound normal then fire and run for about a half second, then die. After that, it will crank and try to to hit, but never start. If I put the throttle wide open, it will start and spit and spudder and try and bounce out of the engine bay, but never get over a few hundred RPM. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. This is all that checks out good: Timing Spark (good at plugs) Fuel (wet plugs, and lots of volume to injectors) TPS (.509 volts) Crank Sensor (2KOhms) Cam Position Sensor (2KOhms) MAF (cleaned but not tested) Knock Sensor (replaced just before spun bearing) Ground (good connections, but added temporary 8ga wire from block to battery) All sensors and plug connections checked No trouble codes I took pics of the timing marks before we tore the engine down, and while two of the marks are a half groove off, it ran like this before. Pics before and after below for reference. Before After Before After Before After I will post a video of it cranking over as well.