viper75

We somehow got it running this morning, after checking resistances on the plug wires, coil, TPS, camshaft sensor, made SURE the timing belt is good. don't think we found the problem, spoke with parts guy and he thought the fuel pump may not have enough initial pressure and that the fuel could be bleeding back into the tank as it sits. I would like to install a schrader valve, anyone know where I can get an install kit? I just found this on Summit Racing: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/anm-01800001478/overview/ Would any fuel pressure tester work or do I have to have the Actron brand?

Can't believe I missed that, lol. I work with timing belts regularly, and I know they have teeth. It's been a long week.

I pulled the fuel line off the filter, turned the key, and fuel comes out. I pulled two spark plugs and checked for spark - got it. There is fuel on the spark plug. So, it appears that I have fuel, air and spark...the engine turns over, but it does sound different. Perhaps a sensor of some kind failed.

Looks like the timing belt is still intact. And the starter is definitely turning the engine over, so...gonna check to make absolutely sure that the fuel pump is working, and check for spark.

If the timing belt is broken, could that cause damage to the valves/cylinders if I cranked the motor? Also, is there an easy way to check the timing belt without disassembling the entire front of the motor?

Hey all, I think I have an issue with the IAC valve. I pulled codes 21 and 24, and the car won't start. It turns over, but won't start. It used to have a hard time starting, and I could tap the pedal to the floor, and in most cases it would catch and start running. Now, it just turns over, and it sounds different than before. Also, looking into the throttle body, I see oil has come up from the valve covers and blackened the throttle body, as well as some oil coming up from what looks like the transfer case/differential (?) - it's a larger sized hose that connects to the bottom of the air intake. So, I have followed what I could in the Haynes repair manual, and the resistance readings are 30.4 and 60.4 ohms, whereas the book says it should be between 7.3 and 13 ohms. I've gone to one junk yard already and checked the resistance on that valve, and got the same as mine (30/60 ohms). (Already replaced the engine coolant temp sensor, but the IAC valve is at least $380.) That's where I'm at, and heading to another junk yard. Thanks in advance.

Hey, new guy here, just bought an old Impreza, 1993. First Subaru ever owned. Not in great condition, but it runs...till today. West Coast, married, won't retire till I'm 80. :)