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SubiDuby

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  • Location
    Denver Colorado
  • Vehicles
    2004 Outback 3.0 Automatic

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  1. I really appreciate the insight from everyone. Thank you all! I don't know when this car last had its tranny serviced, we acquired it somewhere around 217k, I was told its got really dirty trans fluid by a mechanic shop. I'm getting closer to doing this job. Probably going to just keep it simple for now and do three drains/fills over a few week's time. Her commute isn't far so I'll let her get 100 miles in between each session. A few more questions I have are: - If I'm going to do it 3 times should I just wait until after the 3rd time to replace the filter? - Shop said her trans cooler lines are leaking and I should replace them. Are those the same hoses you pull for the substantial drain? - I've always used Castrol for my oil changes on my Chevy truck. Would a Castrol high mileage trans fluid be a good option? Those others mentioned (subaru HP, amsoil, redline) seem more expensive and trying to keep high costs down. Is "High Mileage" Trans fluid worth it or just a marketing ploy to get people to pay more for fluid? - Is there a best bang for your buck trans fluid to recommend? I've heard a few people recommend that Valvoline max life but still not sure which to spend the money on. - Finding the total amount of trans fluid in the service manual didn't seem to give a straight answer. If you're draining approximately 4 quarts each time x 3, that's about 3 gallon jugs of trans fluid, does that sound about right? Thanks again!
  2. It seems like a fairly easy job but I'm still trying to understand the specifics so I can feel confident performing the job. I see videos on YT of people just draining the transmission, putting new fluid of equal amount to what was drained, running through the gears a few times and then you're good. However, that doesn't seem right. Here is a how-to I found that seems more legit: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/changing-automatic-transmission-fluid-is-easy.5843/ What I'm struggling with is understanding the draining of the fluid multiple times after driving multiple times to fully get all the fluid out of the system. How does that work exactly? is it truly necessary or can I just do the quick drain and fill? I'm working on my girl's 2004 outback 3.0 H6 with 230k miles and I need to do this right. Anybody know the exact filter, the exact type of ATF fluid and the exact amount to use for this model? I'm also planning on throwing in a bottle of the Lucas Stops Slip (24oz) in place of the some the fluid. Really trying to simplify this process for a very detail-oriented mind that tends to overcomplicate things. Thank you for any help!
  3. Hey, thank you so much Idosubaru! Now I have a better understanding of what needs the attention as a priority. I will get to putting attention on the tie rod job. When it comes to the valve cover leak is there a best practice for fixing it? Is it gasket replacement? I also saw a youtube video where some guys use silicon, I'm just curious best and easiest way to remedy the leak.
  4. Thanks for your help guys. So is it power steering fluid that you add to the rear diff and where exactly? Sorry, I'm mechanically inclined but definitely not a mechanic. Are the outer tie rod and leaking trans lines DIY jobs? Are these jobs crucial as in could cause problems in the future? Could the valve cover leaks cause issues down the road as well?
  5. Hi all, My girlfriend just took her 04 outback into the shop for an alignment/oil change and they bombarded her with a list of additional things wrong with it. I'm trying to sort through the mess to determine what is crucial to get fixed and whats not. It's at 220k miles. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Here's the notes from the shop: -rf outer tie rod end play -rack and pinion maybe leaking -struts due to miles bumpy ride -engine air filter dirty - replace -Steering rack leaking/bellow boots torn -Valve cover gaskets leaking, oil 1 qt low upon arrival -trans cooler lines leaking, leaving puddles -Front brakes metal to metal, rear brakes okay -Rear diff fluid very dirty/ rear diff bushings broken We just had the front brakes done. I also just installed the Whiteline bushing inserts for the rear diff bushings but is the fluid okay to leave as is?. Replacing the air filter should be simple, so I'll be grabbing one of those soon. But what else should I prioritize? This is her only vehicle and we need to make this baby last. Thanks for any advice!
  6. I went to do the bushing inserts today and stopped in my tracks when they didn't fit. I know I'm supposed to trim part of the insert but how and where exactly? it seems the two finger parts of the insert are too big to fit in there. Should I take a razor and make the fingers skinnier? Another question would be am I supposed to use the included lubricant to help push these things in the existing bushing? How does the lube work? I'm a Subaru newbie so I just want to make sure I'm doing everything right as not to damage the inserts I just payed for. Also big thanks to Idosubaru, those nuts are M12x1.25, I picked up a pair at Ace and already I'm feeling a smoother shift when I put in reverse. Here is a picture of my bushings and a picture of Whiteline inserts I just bought.
  7. Hey guys, does anyone know the size and thread count of those nuts on the bushings? I went to check the bushings and the nuts were completely missing. Check the photo Auto parts stores have been useless in figuring out exactly what I am looking for. Does anyone have part number they could link to? btw, do those bushings look good still? Thank you
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