1978brat
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Posts posted by 1978brat
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Are you sure this isn't the Rob Tune? Sounds like 'BoostedSubie's Impreza.
The Rob Tune is an EJ20G ECU that has an added chip, but it's not compatible w/anything newer than a '94 Legacy (unless you do a full harness swap, too - which I know BoostedSubie did.)
Looking at his build sheet, it is a rob tune, so I believe im just going to a maga squirt ecu
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Thanks for the help, I found the wiesco pistons that were mentioned and will probably get them and have found some 2.5 DOHC heads locally. My friend that is running the EJ22t hybrid has a ECU from a 96 impreza that has been reflashed for his specs from a guy in Seattle, and has his phone #. I am going to try to get ahold of him. Also, I am debating using a plug an play maga squirt ECU as I have used several of these before on other builds. What piston rings and rods are recommended?
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Hello everyone. I have a 2001 Forester that I would like to build a
hybrid EJ22T for it. I have a friend that has a hybrid EJ22T in his 91
legacy and I am fairly impressed with it. I already bought a complete
EJ22T engine from intake to cat. What I was thinking was using a 2.5
crank (not sure if I can) the 2.2 rods, bore the cylinders for 2.5 N/A
pistons, phase 1 2.5 sohc Z25 heads with the cams reground for proper throw
and duration to maintain non interference. Arp head studs, a good gasket
set (tbd) sti intake manifold phase 1, aftermarket header, down pipe
and muffler. Tdo5-20g turbo and and finally a 2.5x ECU. Please let me
know if there is anything that will not work and why. Thank you for
your time, it is much appreciated. -
Hello everyone. I have a 2001 Forester that I would like to build a EJ22T hybrid for it. I have a friend that has a hybrid EJ22T in his 91 legacy and I am fairly impressed with it. I already bought a complete EJ22T engine from intake to cat. What I was thinking was using a 2.5 crank (not sure if I can) the 2.2 rods, bore the cylinders for 2.5 pistons, phase 1 2.5 sohc heads with the cams reground for proper throw and duration to maintain non interference. Arp head studs, a good gasket set (tbd) sti intake manifold phase 1, aftermarket header, down pipe and muffler. Tdo5-20g turbo and and finally a 2.5x ECU. Please let me know if there is anything that will not work and why. Thank you for your time, it is much appreciated.
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I call dibs on the following:
Brushgaurd
Any Salvagable Interior Parts(dash, door panels, gauges).......that's assuming it's not too much to ask? it'll be worth your while.
-Flynt
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any available interior....at all....anything you can salvage that's useable, i want. i'm only in north idaho, so i can maybe pick up.
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so, back to my original question....am i going to be able to fit the ea81 into by brat with ease, or am i gonna need to do some fab work, etc.? i planned on taking the whole transaxle, and engine out as one. i was pretty sure they wouldn't match up, i was just checking. thanks for all the help.
Flynt
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thanks,
option b was my original plan. just have the 1800 engine bolt right to the 1600 trans-axle and bell housing, etc. and, how's wiring match up? as far as i can see, everything looks the same or very easily changable. anything i should be aware of? thanks for your help.
Flynt
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I was wondering if the 1800 bolts right up to the trans-axle in my '78 brat. i know that the engines are the same size, exterior dimensions-wise, but i wasn't quite sure about the internals, splines, etc. i was rebuilding my 1600 when i scored this 1800 for free, and it's only got like 35000 original miles on it. i was really hopin' to use it with out pullin' the transaxle, but it's no biggie if i have to is it? lemme know asap if ya got any info for me. thanks a ton,
Flynt
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1). buy a cheap, cheezy flat head or phillips screw driver
2). grind the tip to a point, not a sharp point, but enough of a point to fit between the rubber and the stud
3). the stud makes a shape sorta like a nail, so push the "screw driver" into the gap, and when it stops going in, pry the tool about a quarter to a half of an inch out away from the center of the stud, and push down
4). after about an eighth of an inch, pry back in, as well as up. the stud should pop out with not a lot of ease, but a lot easier than using vice grips or electrician's pliers.
5). this may take a little getting used to, and may leave a few blisters, but myself having down this three times in the last week, know your pain..........glad i could help you out.
Flynt
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i am trying to fit something bigger than the engine compartment can hold....i think. i have a '78 brat, and i am trying to get a little more power....or maybe a lot. i've been told that i can fit the ea81 in easily, and have plenty of power, but i am trying to get more. if anybody knows anything about it, let me know. thanks
flynt
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anybody know if you can fit a 2.2 into the engine compartment of a '78 brat? haven't measured it out yet, but i am trying to get more power.....lots more. the brat had the 1600(1.6 L) in it to begin with....overhauled....looking for something newer and faster. thanks.
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lookin' for parts for a 1st gen brat.....anybody got anything? most important parts right now are sunroof seal/info as to where i can get one and/or front fenders. thanks....
-Flynt
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Hey Everybody.......I am looking for parts for my '78 1st gen I am currently restoring. the most important thing i am looking for is the seal for the sun roof. if anybody knows where i could find one, that'd be great. thanks.
-'78 Brat
need help on my ej22t hybrid build
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Sounds good on the rings, and I would like to stay under $500 for rods.