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Scoby4wd

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Posts posted by Scoby4wd

    Coolant leak

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted · Edited by Scoby4wd

    yeah check the hose that comes out of the top of the water pump and makes a 90 degree bend under the intake.  Its a very short hose but can leak and you find coolant along the top of the motor when it does.  You can get a molded replacement pretty cheap.

    Search for Tailgate Chrome Trim for a 2nd Gen. Brat

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted · Edited by Scoby4wd

    On 1/10/2022 at 8:34 PM, SaltyMike said:

    Hey everyone,

    I've been doing some searching around online and I have been having a hard time finding the chrome trim piece that came on the tailgate of the Brats, specifically a 1982. I have every bed trim piece except for the tailgate. From what I understand, it seems like this may be a very difficult part to find much like many other Brat parts, but I figured that I'd give it a shot and post this in the case that someone who has a spare may want to sell it. 

    Thank you!

    Hi Mike,

    I have a full set of Gen 2 bed trims in great shape.  I am actually only about an hour from you in NY.  Also have a mirror most likely. 

    Have a whole parts brat behind the house Id be happy to sell you, complete with seats and T tops.

    Let me know if interested.

    John

    20k Mile EA82 - weird carb issue

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted · Edited by Scoby4wd

    Hi All,

    Have a weird issue with an 87 GL Sedan I bought recently.  The car has 26k miles original and is mint. With that mileage, it has sat around alot.  I did a tune up - plugs, wires, dist cap, set timing etc.  It actually runs really well aside from one strange issue.

    It starts and runs fine.  As it warms up and the idle drops, it will idle around 900 and buck a little (almost like amiss).

    Then, if I shut off the car, and start it again, the idle settles perfectly smooth at 800 (since its automatic), no buck or miss.

    At this point, if I go for a drive, it runs perfect.  However, If I floor the gas pedal (or close to it), it will then always idle between 900-1200 (depending on how far I had pressed the gas) and will buck/miss a little. If I shut the car off, and restart, it goes back to running/idling perfect immediately, until I floor it again.

    Given this, I suspect it is something to do with the secondary's, or something related to them, perhaps something not closing after it opens, until I shut the car off and it loses all vacuum.

    Any Hitachi experts care to weigh in?

     

    Thanks

    John

     

    EA82T overboost, ECU cuts fuel

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    On 1/2/2021 at 9:58 AM, GeneralDisorder said:

    Having a boost control solenoid with a tiny baby turbo is often useful as you can run the boost a little higher than WG and you can pull the wastegate closed at high RPM when the engine is pulling the boost of the turbo down. Of course you need a programable solenoid to do this and the appropriate boost pressure transducer, etc/ But yeah you can increase the boost and hold it longer - most Subaru ECU's will handle a few psi above wastegate. 10psi total would likely be fine. 

    GD

    Thanks for the info.  I am very happy with how it run's and drives right now so I think I am just going to leave it alone.  I'm not looking to race this thing, just cruise it around, so leaving it stock is probably best reliability wise.  

    EA82T overboost, ECU cuts fuel

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted · Edited by Scoby4wd

    Final update, got this thing totally sorted out.  I got the WGDS working finally, but in the end eliminated it.

    First a big thanks to all who posted here to help me get it done.  You guys definitely helped me quite a bit.

    So now to the solution. First, I found that two of the lines going to the WGDS were crossed by one of the previous owners.  Funny thing, the first time I worked on it I found one of the clamps about 1" down the hose which I found odd - so definitely someone had messed with it and plugged the two larger connections in wrong.  

    On my test drive with the WGDS hooked up correctly I noticed two things - first that boost around 3k rpm didnt come on smooth, you sort of felt it waiver a bit.  Second, the boost guage showed a max of 6psi in 1st and second.   I recalled from my first drive with the WGDS removed that it was alot smoother, and I got 6.5-7psi on my guage.  But I had the pesky CEL when I did that.

    To bypass the valve I simply left the wiring harness for it connected and the valve in place.  Then I simply capped the line coming from the intake plenum, and directly connected to the turbo outlet to the wastgate actuator.  Now I get smooth boost, 6.5-7 psi in all gears, and no wavering.  Plus no CEL.

    All in all another RX is back from the dead.  Next up is getting the seats recovered and a few other odds and ends, but I'm totally pumped to have this thing running good.

    • Like 1

    EA82T overboost, ECU cuts fuel

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted · Edited by Scoby4wd

    So I figured this out finally.  Turns out my waste gate duty solenoid (on the passenger strut tower) doesnt seem to be doing its job.  I tested this by directly connecting the turbo pressure outlet straight to the wastegate actuator.  When I did this I got peak boost of 6.5 psi reliably and no pinging.  The car ran and drove beautifully.

    I am thinking the right move here is to remove the WGDS but keep the harness connected since it seems to throw a CEL when disconnected and just plug any open vacuum ports.  I could even add a manual boost controller and up it to 8 or 9 psi, but frankly I'm not inclined to mess with this motor too much.

    Alternately, I am wondering if perhaps its just not connected properly and was wondering if someone could tell me which vacuum connections go where.  I tried two different valves (happened to have a second one) and neither were controlling boost.  I did test both by connecting them to 12v and listening for a click, which it did.

    • Like 1

    Is this EA82T head junk?

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted · Edited by Scoby4wd

    11 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:

    That's a crack. Whether it occurred during manufacture or later when it was running is anyone's guess - probably from cooling when it was cast. The EA82T heads are prone to cracking into the cooling jackets though if pushed hard. I wouldn't run them particularly hard. Anyone that has attempted more than 150 WHP from the EA82T has not had it last long. They just weren't up to the task. Properly setup and monitored though they can last a decent amount of time at stock power or slightly over - 120 at the wheels for example. The biggest problem is now the lack of parts and the frustrating complexity of the whole assembly compared to an EJ that can quadruple their performance with ease and are much simpler overall without the tendency toward ticking lifters, cracking heads, etc.

    GD

    Frankly I plan to keep the car stock so I should be fine.  If not, I have two other sets of heads to replace these.  One set has one head that shows a similar crack/mark, the other set are GenII and dont seems to show any cracks or marks in this area.   

    According to the shop they were pressure tested and its on the side facing the cam tower, which I dont think has the water jacket nearby but I could be wrong.

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