Raynman1989

I'm after a new tailshaft for my legacy. I know that subaru tailshafts aren't technically rebuildable and that they can actually be rebuilt but I can't find anyone locally to do it so im wondering what my options are? Is the gt tailshaft the same as the none gt lagacy? Someone has stated that newer gen driveshafts are compatible, is this true and if so which ones?

I "think" my tailshaft needs replacing, u-joints feel quite rough when moved by hand, centre bearing rubber housing seems okay (no cracks) besides it sagging but I do get a "vibration" under hard acceleration that feels exactly like a center bearing housing failure. Maybe the vibration is something else? Apparently these tailshafts can't be rebuilt and with the car being an uncommon import I'm having a hard time finding what tailshafts are compatible.

Thanks I'll make sure to get one of those if I don't already have one.

As far as I can tell most of the bracket is still in place but all that's holding it there is some glue/silicone. Guess I'll leave it as is.

A previous owner of my legacy gt has cut off part of the pitch stop mount so it is no longer welded to the firewall. What are some suggestions? Just leave it off? And maybe upgrade the engine mounts to something stiffer? Weld it without removing anything in the engine bay? Making a homemade bracket and using some big rivets?

That's with it sitting on the ground. It's got kings lowered springs and it's 1996 liberty wagon. It doesn't look lowered because of the angle I took the pic on.

She's got lowered springs fitted.

It would seem so but these should work since whiteline make this bar and links for this car. Seems they've got their measurements wrong?

They're brand new

Yeah I was thinking of doing that but it wouldn't totally fix the issue

I just fitted a 22mm whiteline front Sway bar and endlinks and to my untrained eye the different angle between the link and bar looks terrible (it's the same on both sides). The car also has lowering springs which of course make the angle worse. Is it going to be an issue? Surely it will wear the bushes out considerably faster at the very least?

The motors done 220,000ks and had a full service history (headgaskets hadn't been replaced in that time) up until about 20,000ks before I got hold of it. I took the previous engine out due to headgasket issues. Guess I may as well do the headgaskets with the symptoms it's got and considering I've got headgaskets for it and need to replace the clutch while it's out. Tbh I've never really spent too much time trying to "burp the coolant system besides running the engine with the cap off, will air in the system stop circulation?

Yeah I mean distance it's only about half a tooth away from the mark (the mark lands between 2 teeth). Moving it would make it an equal distance past the tooth. Man I've really been hoping it's not a headgasket. Only just put this engine in and done under 10,000ks on it but everything seems to be pointing at a headgasket failure

I've been having some issues with my ej, overheating and high fuel usage. I ook the timing cover off to check the water pump and noticed the timing seems to be off by about 1 tooth. If I line up one cam and the crank with their marks then the remaining cam doesn't line up but moving the cam 1 tooth causes it to move past the mark and still not line up. The timing belt shouldn't be stretched (if they even stretch) since it's only done about 10,000ks. Should I just move the belt that one extra tooth and see if it changes anything?

Man I sure hope it's not the headgasket as the motor only just went in to replace a motor with leaky headgaskets but I haven't been contemplating taking the motor out to replace the clutch so that will be a good time to do the headgaskets. Will a compressions test pick up on a leaky headgasket? Surely by now all the air would be out of the cooling system? Or can air work it's way in at any time? Phase 1 (1989) ej22e? Well tbh I've only had a block temp gauge to go off but I can certainly tell when an engine is running hotter besides the block temp reading considerable higher, a large amount of coolant overflowing from the radiator and the smell of a cooking motor