trimmike

But do I trust the shop to do a good job? They are mainly a tire oil change shop (firestone) Correct me if I am wrong but don't I need new heads since the valves were essentially running w/out oil as well. I would be putting a lot of trust in the shop to procure all the correct parts and put it together correctly w/out a warranty on the engine itself (aside from the subaru short block warranty) when its all said and done. If there is a failure aside from the short block I still need to pay out labor to repair and potentially another failed part along the way. So I have to make a decision. Do I trust the shop will do me right or do I pay for a reman w/ a 36 month unlimited mileage warranty with an optional labor warranty that most reman engine companies offer? I cant take it to another shop to work over since I would lose the shop's labor offer to replace the engine for free. I am in a spot but all of your advise has been great. Thanks for the replies along the way.

Since the shop I am using is paying to pull the engine and put in a new one they wont rebuild anything inclusive, not that I would really trust them to do a good job so, i am thinking about a re-manufactured engine from gearhead engines (www.gearheadengines.com). They are quoting a 2.5L remanufactured engine for $2700 after core is returned that includes the 2 way shipping. Has anyone used these guys before? based on research they sell a lot of engines and since its completely reman I dont have to do anything but buy it, supply new plugs, wires, cap, as it has new alternator, full gasket set come with (re-use valve covers and oil pan) Images of the rebuild attached

I am making some headway w/ the shop and they agreed to replace the engine if I buy a replacement he will pick up the labor. What should I be looking for in a used engine and what should I have done to it before I have them replace it? New head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, AVLS switch, timing chain and stuff it in? ANything else to keep in mind? Also, where to buy one? Suggestions please? Thanks!.

but no oil visible on the ground nor on the frame. Or does the leaking diaphragm leak internal and the oil burns?

My son has a 2008 Sub Outback, 5 spd runs well, adds a quart of oil every 1000-1200 miles since it has 156,000 on it which for this year/model and oil consumption seems normal based on what you read. The day before he goes to school brings it into shop has the CT emissions check and it passes, has the Connecticut shop change the oil. 4.5 qts 5w30, new Pennzoil filter based on what the receipt says. Next day leaves on his 800 mile drive to college. 350 miles into his journey CEL comes on steady, cruise control starts to flash and then CEL starts flashing. He pulls over and pops the hood, engine running rough, lurching all over, a little oil smoke coming from near cylinder 3 . He turns off engine check oil on and there is none!. Gets car towed to New York shop they confirm no oil in crankcase to speak of, there is no obvious leak anywhere under the hood or around the car except what would be expected seepage from the years, nothing fresh. It sat for 5 days, no oil pool under car. Coolant level is fine, no oil/frothy mix in anything. Codes pulled as P0302, P0303, P0028. First two are miss fire and likely reason for flashing CEL, 028 is oil manifold, bank 2 which was likely due to low oil level NY Shop says the engine likely blown but need to get into it to diagnose. I end up spending $500 and get it towed back to CT. My neighbor is a 30 yr car mechanic so we pull oil plug and about 1qt very dirty black oil comes out. Pull off filter and, lo an behold, its not a penzoil but a car quest, looks dirty and not very new TBH. Put some new oil in it, change the filter. Sounds bit better but still rocking. Pull the plugs and all look good except #3, has oil on it. Compression test show 1,2, & 4 within a few lbs of 175 PSI. #3 is at 70 PSI. This is bad.. Back to original CT oil change shop for them to take a look. Car was running fine before it went into shop for a simple oil change, 350 miles later, miss firing, huge oil consumption w/ no leak (at least 3.5 quarts would show up somewhere one would think?) and compression numbers that suggest the engine needs a rebuild. What is the likely scenario causing the missfire and no oil?? Shop didn't fill crankcase? Sticky valve pushing oil?. I think the codes and the dark oil are a symptom of the final issues but not the cause. What would cause the engine to all of a sudden consume close to 4 quarts of oil in 350 miles?