Shifter59
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Posts posted by Shifter59
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This car has many amazing mods done to it........like previous mentioned by others, modified cars mean something completely different to a buyer. Most Subaru enthusiasts like us aren't looking to purchase such vehicles, as the reason why we love subaru is nowhere to be found on your legacy. It looks pretty swift and i like how it's tastefully done, but you put in a lot of time, money and work into something that's going to be worthless to the subaru world.
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I had this happen and replaced everything that involved pulling the engine out! more info available on request.............cost me about 1800 buck swith labor and parts, i know a great mechanic in portland if you are around there, let me know, thanks--David
Hi, been posting on the Older Gen board, have a '97 OBW that needs a HG change. What's the "job list" for this? I'm pulling the engine, so might as well get it all done while it's out. Auto trans if it matters, and 93k.From what I've gathered, I should do:
HG's
cam seals
rear crank seal
timing belt
oil pump o-ring? part of oh gasket set?
oil separater plate? part of oh gasket set?
Parts needed are:
Overhaul gasket set
Valve cover gaskets (not included in OH kit)
Spark plug gaskets (not included in OH kit)
timing belt
autotrans fluid
oil separater plate
More could be done, water pump, oil pump, etc., but what's really necessary at 93K?
Monte
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thanks for the advice!!!!
Told you so :-)In my legacy both connectors has been replaced in the past few years. The right side was much before when the previous onwer had the car, the left side was 6 monthes ago (i own the car for more then 2 years).
I used aftermarket connector from local parts store, so far so good. You have to cut the old connector and solder the new one. Cut the wires one by one and connect the same side wire from the new connector. after that solder the connections and isolate them.
Izik
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ok, i checked the connector, although it is bad and starting to melt, the quick fix was to just put in a new fuse, need to get some new connectors soon.......anyone know what aftermarket headlights would work best? I've been using the Sylvania Silverstars
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exact same thing happened to me a few months ago on my 1997 outback, my mechanic changed the sensor for bout 160 bucks including the "code
" cost, that's probably the problem, good luck!
Update: I took it to the local Subaru guys, and they ran the code. They say it's the sensor. I think I'm going to let them do the job...the labor shouldn't be too much and I don't want to end up replacing the sensor and then finding it's something else. Thanks for the help. -
slightly stranger thing happening to my 1997 outback wagon, one headlight is dim and doesn't even come on full power when i switch on the brights.........is this an electrical issue or maybe just a connection issue between the bulb and the wiring harness? I have tried numerous bulbs to no avail, any help please would be appreciated, tahnks! David:confused:
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Is he the one in Tigard off of Hall BLVD? If it is, thats who I go to! Subaru Pro Autotech
Sounds like you have the answer in the previous post. Considering the work you had done recently, you might find that the vehicle speed sensor is unplugged or not properly secured. Considering your location in Vancouver, you ought to consider SIR (richierich) in Portland. I'd trust his shop over any dealer anytime. -
Thanks buddy! I got ahold of my mechanic later yesterday and he said the exact same thing, swapped it out in 30 mins, total cost 162 bucks..........thanks for your help guys
I have the answer to your question!!!It is the Vehicle Speed Sensor. It attaches to the transmission on my manual transmission vehicle. When mine failed, the symptoms were exactly the same as yours. I had it fixed at the dealer. The part was about 65 dollars, if I remember correctly. The labor was about a hundred dollars.
If I had the wisdom and mechanical know-how then that I do now, I would have replaced it myself. It is a simple swap.
The speedo, odo, and cruise control will not work, and the rev limiter will kick in about 1500 rpm too early.
Matt D
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recently in the shop yes, I had the heads and all that stuff done while the engine was out....timing belt, water pump, plugs, etc. etc.
My mechanic doesn't charge either, but I haven't been able to get to him to plug the car in and read the codes..........any ideas off hand?
if the CE light is on, have it checked and post what the code is. advanced auto parts, autozone, etc can read the codes for free. or dealers/mechanics do it for a charge $40-$80. give us the code and code description the decoder thing spits out.and also, mileage, ever had a tune up? recently in the shop?
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OK, 1997 Subaru Outback Limited...............on the way home from work i noticed the speedometer AND cruise control not working. A few miles later the check engine light came on and my subie's idle went really low when stopped at a traffic light. Then when mostly home noticed the engine."Acting" like it would when you hit the redline but only at about 4,500 rpm........seriously I love subarus, have owned them for a long time but i am positively clueless as to what's wrong with my baby! help me please!? I have had no previous problems for at least a few months, thanks-David
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ok so i went to drive around in the snow this afternoon, was running some high rpm' and what not like we all love doing in the snow. Car died, started ok and drove bout 7 miles, get to my friends house, and there is oil in my coolant...........did i blow a head gasket? if so, anyone have some advice on changing that? i know it's much to large of a job for me to take on myself, but is there good cheap shops in the portland area? 1997 subaru legacy outback limited, 2.5 motor dualcam thanks guys-David
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thanks for the help bro! i really need to wait till i'm rested up and free alllllllll day, i've studied it a bit, but god what a pain, someone told me the mechanic book time on this is something like 2.5 hours, haha
Yes, it's a pain in the rump roast. But actually very easy to do IF you set aside enough time and you're in the right mental state. Buy a six-pack of Heineken the night before you do this.All kidding aside, the job is easy enough if you move things out of the way, and you take your time and don't force stuff. I can't over-emphasize that. Don't force stuff. Resist the temptation to forcefully "jerk" plug wires loose, etc. And obviously, all of this should be done only with the engine cool, never hot.
You must remove the windshield washer tank and the fuel filter bracket from the left strut tower. (to prevent tearing up your arm when you reach down towards the spark plugs because the bracket sticks out and WILL hurt). Note carefully how the fuel filter bracket is assembled before you take it off. You must remove the "air box" or at least the air filter cover and snorkle from the right side of the engine compartment. Once these things are removed and out of the way, it's much easier to grasp and twist the plug wire boots loose from the spark plugs. Be sure to use the little "finger pulls" that are molded into the plug wire boots to grasp them. Forcing the plug wire boots off of the plug by "ripping" them off will only damage the plug wire, resulting in engine misfiring. Since Subaru has been so generous in providing about one inch of space between the rocker covers and the vehicle frame, you have to gently wiggle the plug wire boot out from between the frame and the engine, then move each plug wire up and out of the way. If the plug wires are the originals, you may want to consider replacing them while you're replacing the spark plugs. By the way, Subaru offers "Subaru of America" replacement plug wires as a complete set, as well as the original-equipment plug wires, but the OE wires are sold singly. The advantage to the OE wires is they fit exactly and they're even the same silly red color.
Removing the spark plugs from the cylinder heads is pretty straight-forward after all the other stuff is off--just use a 3/8 drive ratchet and a deep well spark plug socket (I think it's a 5/8 spark plug socket but someone else chime in here if I'm wrong...) It's getting your hands down into the engine compartment between the cylinder heads and the frame rails that's the real challenge. By the way, on reassembly, be sure to apply anti-seize compound to the spark plug threads and silicon spark plug boot release to the inside of each plug wire boot. Each plug wire boot must be gently wiggled back between the frame rail and the cylinder head, guided into the cylinder head and onto the spark plug. You'll be able to tell that each boot is secured to each spark plug because there will be a distinct "click" when the boot completely engages onto the plug. If you don't here that "click", you may end up with a misfire because the boot won't be completely attached to the plug.
Oh, yeh.....about removing that windshield washer tank----have a couple of small rubber "vacuum caps" handy to plug off the hose connector on each washer pump after the hoses are pulled loose, or you'll end up loosing all of your washer fluid on the garage floor. I learned the hard way. Also, resist the temptation to force the electrical connectors loose from the washer pumps. If you study them carefully, you'll see that they have a little release tab that needs to be gently pried so the connector comes loose from each washer pump.
Oh, but wait, there's more.....if you find that the old spark plugs and plug wire boots are soaked with engine oil, you'll need to replace the inner and outer rocker cover gaskets......but that's a whole different story.
If you get all of this done while maintaining your composure AND the engine runs perfectly afterwards, then reward yourself with the Heinekens.
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Anyone ever change the plugs on the 2.5 motor for 97 outbacks? Is this just a pain in the rump roast always or what? any advice appreciated......
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It doesn't slip , once i get it into gear, it seems the problem today after looking at it more is that the clutch is maybe only half engaging? I'm not sure, It's just almost impossible to get it into gear, I really hope it's not tranny problems, by the way the car has 157,000miles on it........
Is it slipping when in gear? I've never seen a clutch just stick to the floor.How old is the clutch? (how many miles are on it)
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Came home last night and got off the freeway, clutch stuck to the floor for a minute, i had to pry it up with my foot. After that it would not let me shift into gears, I had to force it into the gears to get home the last few miles. I'm pretty sure the clutch went out, but dont want to replace the entire thing if it's just part of the clutch, any suggestions? Anyone in the Vancouver/Portland area that can help me? Where to go for repairs? Thanks-David
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my 1988 has 240,000 and still starts up everyday
My '87 with an EA82t has 235,918 and still running, what have you got -
I'll be there Saturday night up from Vancouver, WA with my 1997 limited legacy outback and i'm contemplating bringing the 1988 GL wagon but i'm not sure, it's for sale if anyone wants to make an offer.......
Please speak up if you intend to show up, it will help us to be better prepared if we have an idea of how many folks will attend.Please stay on topic. Appreciated.
EZ
I'll be there with both of our imprezas.
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sounds like the exhaust shroud, i have the same problem in my 97 legacy outback, it's not a huge problem, just creates that annoying sound that you are talking about, take it to a muffler shop and have them tack weld it, i've just been too lazy to get around to doing it, shoudln't be more than 20 bucks......
My 97 OBW with 5MT (97k miles) has an unusual sound when depressing the clutch pedal in the lower gears. The sound is a metal on metal vibration, but not a grinding or anything. This only happens when shifting from 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd.Also, it only happens when I shift around the 3K RPM mark. If I shift at 2500, it doesn't happen, and if I shift at 3500 it doesn't happen. The noise occurrs briefly and only while the RPMs are in that 3K range.
Also, if I engine brake down a hill and leave it in the 3K range, I get that sound with a little more consistency.
This seems like a loose piece of metal being excited by the 3000 RPM range. Anyone have any ideas what might be vibrating?
Thank you!
Reid
I need to know where to find body parts on outback
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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I got hit in the side of my outback, i need the drivers side doors, (both) and i dont have a clue where to look, please someone give me advice on where to find these, nationwide is ok, but i'm in seattle area. I would be ASTOUNDED if i found the sydney blue pearl color as that is my car, but totally rare and not counting on it! Thanks for all you guys continuous help! David see ya at wcss8!