cspurli2
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Posts posted by cspurli2
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So I was jacking my car up last oil change and heard a thud, I look over and it was where my jack stands were sitting so I quickly jacked it up and stopped the procedure. I then took it to an oil change place to get it done and paid 70 bucks, I wouldn’t have gone there if I had known that but it’s besides the point. If I don’t feel safe putting the stands where they normally go, where should I put them? I would attach pictures if the file size wasn’t too big. It also happened in the rear. Forgot to mention I have a 2011 outback sport
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The parts store person gave me regular atf fluid. I think it might be leaking where the high pressure line goes into the pump, because I used the OEM dual connected washer thing instead of the 2 separate copper washers that came with the new pump. I appreciate all the help. Thanks again @idosubaru
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I put on the o ring that came with the power steering pump to replace the old one. Should I just keep trying to bleed it? Also could it be the type of fluid
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Forgot to mention my vehicle is a 2011 Subaru Impreza outback sport.
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Had a somewhat loud squeek coming from what I thought was the power steering pulley. It also had the low drone on start up so that's another reason I thought my power steering pump was shot. I replaced the whole assembly with a rebuilt one from oriellys. Now, the squeek is extremely loud when I turn the wheel all the way to one side or the other, and it shakes the wheel as well. Anyone know what my problem is now? I tried bleeding it by removing the resivoir lid, and turning the wheel back and forth with the front end of the car jacked up. Thanks in advance.
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12 hours ago, cspurli2 said:
Is there no way to fix this one from rusting worse? I mean structurally it's fine now, I just don't want to have it fall apart down the road I guess.
12 hours ago, lmdew said:www.car-part.com
Find a good used Subaru hood. It will most likely be less than having it painted over and over again.
Is there no way to fix this one from rusting worse? I mean structurally it's fine now, I just don't want to have it fall apart down the road I guess.
Okay thanks everyone. I'll just look into another after market hood. Thanks.
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24 minutes ago, lmdew said:
www.car-part.com
Find a good used Subaru hood. It will most likely be less than having it painted over and over again.
Is there no way to fix this one from rusting worse? I mean structurally it's fine now, I just don't want to have it fall apart down the road I guess.
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My hood is an after market one, and I live in northern New York. Just noticed that these rust spots and discoloration had started. Should I try to set sand them? Some have actually ate through the clear coat already. I'll attach pictures to the thread.
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Thanks! That is going to be a big help, I didn't know about the numbers. I'm going to get one from the same year, so hopefully that will be the ticket.
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I'll take a video of the rpms next time I'm driving to try and catch it.
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20 hours ago, idosubaru said:
ATF related stuff is all drivers side and underneath the radiator, so it's unlikely. But I'd definitely be tracing those lines to make sure, who knows if there was additional issue/damage/attention to areas other than the primary impact. I've worked on, looked at, and rebuilt numerous totaled Subaru's and while the major impact is in one area, it's never a surprise to see weird additional minor things elsewhere on the vehicle from the incident itself or later attempts to repair, remove/transport vehicle on tow vehicles, storage, borrowing parts, vandalism, etc.
The torque converter is a good item to look into - they're failure modes aren't well known and tricky to diagnose sometimes. Are there any electro-mechanical issues like whirring or whining that aren't related to just RPM fluctuations?
Nothing that seems out of the ordinary to me. Someone as I said the exhaust note will be alot louder when accelerating than what I think it should be.
Thanks, that's basically what I was thinking. Also do any of you know if the plastic covers under the car are necessary? I find It a pain in the rump roast to take them on and off. But if they are I will leave them on.
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5 hours ago, idosubaru said:
ATF related stuff is all drivers side and underneath the radiator, so it's unlikely. But I'd definitely be tracing those lines to make sure, who knows if there was additional issue/damage/attention to areas other than the primary impact. I've worked on, looked at, and rebuilt numerous totaled Subaru's and while the major impact is in one area, it's never a surprise to see weird additional minor things elsewhere on the vehicle from the incident itself or later attempts to repair, remove/transport vehicle on tow vehicles, storage, borrowing parts, vandalism, etc.
The torque converter is a good item to look into - they're failure modes aren't well known and tricky to diagnose sometimes. Are there any electro-mechanical issues like whirring or whining that aren't related to just RPM fluctuations?
Nothing that seems out of the ordinary to me. Someone as I said the exhaust note will be alot louder when accelerating than what I think it should be.
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7 hours ago, Rampage said:
Just a thought.
That could be the torque converter going out and back in to lockup. Maybe it is not going completely into lockup or taking too long and seems like it is slipping.
Start out a little faster than grandma and count the gears. When you are in 4th and the RPMs are around 3k or a little above let up a little on the throttle so you stop increasing speed. You may have to let up a little more and you should see the RPMs drop about 1k when the torque converter goes into lockup.
Just did it and it stutters on the way down at about 2k then continues.
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Okay thanks I'll try that on the way home today.
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It depends, sometimes it will rev up very loud and then shift hard, but then other times it will kind of slip-catch-slip-catch with very little acceleration. I've noticed that it does it more if I either drive like a grandma meaning very slow on the revs, or if I mash it it will also slip more. But when I hold it at about 2700-3300 rpms it will do the slip catch thing and accelerate decently. I guess I'm just gonna have to ride it until it dies if I can't find what's wrong with your guys help. I appreciate it alot
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It got hit on the passengers but I didn't even think to inspect the lines so I'll add that to the list.
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6 hours ago, idosubaru said:
Is 2011 still the EAT trans, that’s not a CVT right? 2011 is close to the introduction of CVT.
1. Any check engine or flashing transmission lights?2. Check for any outstanding recalls or TSBs for the trans shifting.
3. Check the transmission pan and make sure it’s not dented. There’s very little clearance between the pan and internal uptake inlet.
4. has the car ever been wrecked?
5. This is a long shot and possible waste but if you can DIY it’s at least simple and not too $$$ relative to a shop or trans swap: change the trans fluid. If it’s a 4EAT try some amsoil.
No engine lights, although it did have one for a vacuum leak when I got it but I cleared it when I got it and it hasn't come back. I'll check the tranny pan when I get home. The car does have a rebuilt title, I'm not sure the exact location not I do know it was at least somewhere up front because the paint on the bumper and one of the side fenders is slightly off. I'll try adding some and oil but there 1st time I changed out the fluid I put Lucas stop slip in it and the most recent time I tried trans x to no avail. Also this was the last year from my knowledge it was non cvt.
7 hours ago, lmdew said:Also take a good look at the half shafts CV Joints. They are usually not an intermittent failure item, but worth a look.
Alright. How do I verify that they are ok. Last time I checked they weren't leaking and the boots looked okay.
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22 minutes ago, lmdew said:
Also take a good look at the half shafts CV Joints. They are usually not an intermittent failure item, but worth a look.
Alright. How do I verify that they are ok. Last time I checked they weren't leaking and the boots looked okay.
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8 hours ago, heartless said:
if it is an automatic, it is most likely a 4spd.
is it cold out when you notice the symptoms, or warmish?
tranny fluid should be checked with everything at operating temperature, the car running, and parked on a level surface. verify the fluid is at the correct level.
I checked the tranny fluid when hot and it was right between the markers where it should have been. And today it was 35° farenheit and on my 40 mile drive to work it only slipped 1 noticable time.
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10 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:
can you take the mechanic for a drive and demonstrate the problem?
Bc it is only intermittent I haven't yet. They offered for me to do that. Next time it does it I will.
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My vehicle is a 2011 Subaru Impreza outback sport with 99k miles. I have owned it since December and put ~5k miles on it. The transmission feels like it is slipping, but there is no rhyme or reason to when it does it. Sometimes on my way to work it will slip alot, as in 3 out of the 5 gears (or 4 not sure how many my vehicle has) and other times it won't slip at all. I've changed the fluid and put stop slip in it. I took it to a transmission specialist mechanic and they said they couldn't feel it slip when they test drove it. Just wondering if theres something I can do or wait until the tranny blows and change it.
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Thanks everyone. I was worried the timing was wrong but I got it figured out and put back together. My next problem was it was overheating, but I just kept driving around and coming it up with coolant. I would let it cool down before starting it up again once it got hot and it seemed to fix it, as I drive around once fully filled with coolant for 20 minutes and no warning light came on. Thanks for all the help!
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Was taking apart my timing belt and got the cover off. While in compressing the piston to make sure no air is in it, my friend is taking off the pulleys. I didn't know he hadn't lined up the timing marks. Is the drivers side pulley supposed to be harder to spin than the passenger side? Also how do I know where to line the cams up. Thanks.
Jack stand points.
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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I live in upstate New York so vehicles rust pretty quick. Although it doesn't appear to be rusted through, it's just really dented up like it got pushed up. I'll try and use the frame like you were talking about. Thanks again, also about the rebate.