Jarsky

Hey everyone. So I recently bough a new daily, its a 96 legacy 2.5gt with a 4aet and 120k miles. Had some wiring issues that I was able to sort out, but I've encountered a new problem. When driving above 30 MPH if i let off the accelerator, there is a high pitched whine noise. As soon as i press on the pedal even a little bit it goes away, and it changes with speed. I'm trying to hold out hope that I don't need a new trans. but it seems like that might be in the future for the car. I did an ATF change not flush change, and plan on draining and filling the front diff fluid although when i checked the fluid it looked good. My next areas of concern are the center bearing which I have a replacement for. From what I've read there's a potential it could be the gear lash, but i was unable to find how to adjust that in the service manual I have so im basically at a dead end. Anyone have any ideas besides find a wrecked car with a trans?

there's definitely a possibility in the wiring department, but as i said after 5K the cars a rocket and at idle as well revs past 5 with no problem. The gas tank is from a GD wrx or sti with a brand new fuel pump, so it definitely shouldn't be that. Fuel filter is also only a year or so old.

it runs pretty good after a battery disconnect reset. While I'm hoping its a faulty sensor, i chased down a previous problem about a year ago and spent way too much money replacing basically every sensor except the oil pressure, while it would be a relief if it was a sensor would also be annoying

yeah it gets pretty happy past 5k

gonna work on the car tomorrow as the brakes decided they didnt want to exist anymore ill take a look then

ill try and pull the codes when i get the chance, are the ECM and the ECU the same or contained in the same unit? if so i might have a spare laying around

Hey all, i Have a 93 Subaru legacy. My cars having a problem from 4-5k rpm with a severe lack of power. She feels like a rocket up until that point but as soon as it hits 4 i can feel the car not wanting to accelerate. I figured it would be the knock sensor so i changed it with another one that i know worked. Drove the car around and it felt great so i let it sit overnight, this morning when im leaving for work, boom check engine is back on and the weak spot seems to be back. I haven't checked the code, I'm probably gonna do it tomorrow or during lunch today, but does anyone have any idea what this could be? also of note, sometimes the check engine light will go away, the car backfires less and the weak spot is completely gone. I'm aware that those are symptoms of a bad knock sensor, retard the timing and make the car run rich hence the backfire but as i said that's been changed with a slightly used but working unit. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you!

i believe i figured it out, the car has a koyo rad for a 3d gen outback in it and because the plugs are different the fans are wired to a switch in car, leaving the stock fan plugs wide open. Discovered the other day that the rad was leaking out of a ripped block of plug, since replacing that the issue hasn't happened. Im guessing maybe the coolant was dropping into the plug and that cause it to arc. Hopefully it holds up! thanks to anyone that post suggestion!

Sorry for the drop off Ive been super busy. So I have ngk plugs and wires, the random misfire has disappeared, I'm blaming that on the loose ignition box. However I have a new problem (don't know if I should start a new post it not). Sometimes when driving the car, and this is very rarely, about once a month, after I park the car for a bit and go to get it started again there's a loud buzzing noise and the rpms jump too 3000, that's just in accessories. When I go to crank the rpms go to 4k. The car won't start when this happens and I quite literally have 0 clue what it could be.let me know if this is new post worthy.

ill take a look when its not raining and see what i can find

well the O2 was replaced a couple months ago, and the car has NGK plugs that are relatively new. I did realize that the ignition coil(i think that's the name) was somewhat lose. I had to give it a bit of force to move but im sure if it hit a bump it might move enough to cause some sort of problem. That has since been tightened but because of how random the issue is I'm not sure that was the problem.

i havent checked, because of the manual swap theres always a check engine light, and it can happen at WOT or at idle, i was just giving that as an example.

i dont recall if it was recently wet, it would happen at WOT on the highway and not entirely hard to start or restart. I do have some spare parts.

the car hasnt been in a crash, and basically all the ecu side of things is good, the ecu thinks the car is in neutral 24/7 but ive been driving the car with the swap for months.

just so i don't feel dumb, Like where I put the key in right? i never thought about that if it is that.

backfires basically all the time, stock headers and cat and some aftermarket mid pipe but i forget the brand, i need to put a muffler on it but it does make quite a lot of pops for having basically a stock exhaust. Might have something to do with having a sti/wrx fuel pump but im not sure

its got a sti tank and a basically brand new pump.

Well I'm guessing so it doesn't get fried. Yes those are the shock tower ones, i looked those ones over but ill have another glance. Ill take a look at the relays tomorrow. One other thing i just remembered right behind the battery is where the harness connects from engine to chassis, the bolt was a bit loose so there was slight play, as i was tightening it up the rpm went up and down a bit. I don't think it was that as I was driving with another engine in the car and it had no bracing to the chassis but i figured it was worth mentioning.

I refreshed a decent amount of the grounds a year ago when I did the awd manual swap but ill look again. the only symptom that ive seen, yet again a random one, is that sometimes ill be driving and the check engine light will flash, and for the faintest second the rpms drop to 0 the rocket back up to where they were. besides that radio works fine, I have a aftermarket rad that I had to wire myself but that's also fine. one thing ground wise, the grounds toward the front of the car on the lower flat bar of the engine bay, they would be right in front of where this picture ends if that makes sense(that was a crap description but idk how else to explain), i believe they are for the oem rad, I do have those unhooked because my rad has its own grounds, could that possibly be the problem? I figured because there's no rad in the car it would be a big deal but now I'm not too sure.

yes the random is the worst part, and yes 93 is pre-OBDII, not only that but my car has been manual swapped so i have a check engine light 24/7. I tried to see if anything was lose and the only thing i could come up with was the coil pack, but I don't think it was lose enough to cause any wires to come undone. Regardless, tightened that up and went on a drive around the block and it was running right as rain but I have a sneaking suspicion its not the culprit. Hopefully I'm proven wrong. As I said though it is intermittent. I have no idea what causes it to start or to stop, sometimes a good rev to almost redline will make it fine, other times ill get home and it'll just not stop, yesterday I drove down the highway for 5 minutes and it didn't stop till I stopped a stop light a minute from my house.

Hey all, figured i post here while I'm looking around the internet. I have 93 Subaru legacy that's developed a weird random misfire issue. I'll be driving sometimes and shell be fine, other times it vibrates like hell and sounds like trash, and then it suddenly goes away. I just took the engine out of the car to clean off all the 300K dirt and oil that was on there, replaced the intake gasket and put on an aisin timing kit, and threw the engine back in. At first i thought the issue was a bad alternator, (my alternator was bad), but it turns out this isn't the issue. Crank and cam position sensors were replaced last year as well as a fresh set of NGK plugs and wires. I've read that sometimes the oil pressure sensor can leak onto the crank position sensor so I'm going to check that, and make sure everything is tight but if anyone has any ideas they would be greatly appreciated, thanks for any help.

Well the clicking was the relay, it was right under the seat but I'll go look and see if I can get that rubber tube off and see if any of the wires are shorted

So a little while ago I started hearing a click noise every 5 or so seconds, headlights dim, car felt down on power, and my windows would go down. After doing some investigating I found that it was my power window relay under the driver's seat, ordered a new one(my cars a 93 legacy fyi), I got around to installing it today only to find the problem wasn't fixed, all fuses seem to be fine but I'm gonna triple check after I post this. This obviously isn't a big deal for winter on the north east but come summer time and no AC it'll be an issue. Oh and when I just disconnect the relay altogether the clicking and headlight dim stops. Thanks for any help guys.

Okay thank you guys, I will definitely try both of these when I have a chance to work on the car.

Okay perfect thanks, I so have one other question so I guess I'll ask It here. My cars having an issue with starting sometimes, I believe it has something to do with the alternator or the battery. Sometimes it won't even try to start and I'll have to turn the key on and off a couple times before it even attempts to start, I took my battery in for a charge and it got better but it still sort of happens. Anyone have an issue similar to this. Does anyone also know where I can get an oem used alternator for the car? There's a local shop that builds them to custom spec so instead of buying a shitty pepboys one that almost fried a friend's ECU I'd rather of an oem one. I have a napa one in or something and it lasted maybe 2 years if it's the alternator.