CMohan

Hi all, I am having yet another problem with a Subaru. Today, to celebrate the Forth of July, I decided to change the rotars on my girlfriends 1998 Legacy GT. Well, it didn't go to bad, got them all on, braking has tightened up etc. However, after the daylight faded, I was driving and noticed that when I make right hand turns, there is a grinding noise coming from the driver-side rear tire. After I straighten out, the grinding goes away, but it is noticable when I make right hand turns only. It also seems that the car shakes a little more on the highway than it did prior to my handy work. I haven't been able to look at the time since it is dark, but If anyone has any idea what the problem could be, I would greatly appreciate the help. Thanks.

Hi everyone, I just had a quick question. I have a 96 legacy 2.5 and am changing the front crank seal on the oil pump. When I was reinstalling the oil pump, I accidentally snapped the upper left mounting bolt...i was just curious as to what I can do to insure that the oil pump will seal up properly without the mounting bolt...(the nub is stuck in the body of the engine, can't remove it)? Can I just seal the hole up with a bunch of Ultra grey? Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated...thanks so much.

I thought I had done a fairly good job cleaning the housing of the oil pump...I used brake cleaner and wiped it all down fairly well. I guess I will have to grab some rags, clean the whole underneath, and see if I can't get an exect location of where the leak is coming from...that will probably be better than all this guess work. Thanks for the help everyone...and if anyone else has any input or idea at what I am looking at....please chime in and let me know.

I could try to clean up the engine....does anyone have any recommendations on engine cleaning product that works well? Also...what is the best way to check for head gasket leaking? Thanks for the help gary.

Oh yeah, I don't know if it is too important, but my car is an automatic....also, I found a picture on the site that shows exactly where the smoke on my car is coming from...if anyone has a guess on this one, please help me....thanks in advance.

I'm sure it is not grease from the CV boot....I actually originally had it looked at by a mechanic at pepboys who said that the leak was coming from "Behind the oil pump wall"...which, after some help from others on USM, took to mean that the some seal on the oil pump was broken. They couldn't do the work however as the said they "don't get that involved with engine work", which is why I attempted to do it myself b/c the dealship will charge me a fortune...however, it would appear they didn't know what they were talking about...I'm not sure what the leak is

Hi everyone, These last couple of days, I have attempted to fix an oil leak in my 96 Subaru Legecy 2.5. After pulling the timing belt off I removed the oil pump, put a new crank seal, o ring and new ultra grey coating on the housing and reinstalled the timing belt (twice as the first time I did it wrong). Happy to finally install the thing correctly, and be able to drive it, I took off...only to find out that I did not fix the damn oil leak and it is still leaking and creating a lot of smoke when I come to a stop. I was hoping that the first time I drove it, it would just be some residual oil burning off...no such luck. The smoke is coming from oil that is burning mostly on the tail pipe at the "Y" where they meet, as well as the Catilytic converter. When I pulled the timing cover off originally, there did not appear to be any oil collected on the inside of the cover. Most of the oil that has collected under the car seems to be on the back side of the oil pan...All over the tire rods, etc, some, actually a good amount, has even collected on the transmission fluid pan... I am at my wits end after working nearly 20 hours to pull the belt twice and do all the other stuff that I thought would fix the problem, to no avail...I really don't want to take it to the dealer as I have invested to much of my time and money getting the parts and a few of my tools that I will need to do the job...If any of you could please help me with any other Ideas as to what the leak could be coming from, I would greatly appreciate it...thanks

Thanks to all of you who gave me some great advice on how to proceed with all of this...it's time for me and the car to face off again....hopefully this time I will come out on top. You have all been wonderful with providing me with great advice and wisdom and I only hope that I can repay the favor at some later date. Have a great night all, and hopefully I won't need anymore advice on this wonderful process.

Hi everyone, I was just hoping for some help. Yesterday, I resealed my oil pump, and after putting everything back together, my car wouldn't start, it will turn over but not catch...anyways, I think the timing is off, the two pully's to the right side of the timing belt somehow got out of place when I was dong all the work and it messed up the timing.... I was wondering how you would fix/adjust the timing? Do i need to go in and remove the timing belt and move the pully's or can I just turn the cranksprocekt with the belt on until the marks I made are back into place? Any help would be great, I need to get my car fixed quickly for a family thing. Thank you in advance for any help I can get. Thanks again.

I marked the pully's/belts for alignment, however, the right side pully's were moved somehow...i must have bumped them or something...and when I tried to readjust...they won't move back into place all the way... This must be the problem then....Do I need to re-remove the time belt to fix this or can I just turn the cranksproket until everything is lines back up? Thanks for any help I get, I wanna try and fix this mess

Hi everyone...today, I attempted to reseal my oil pump which requried me to take out the timing belt etc. Huge hassle....well when I was finally done with the job, I put everything back together and attempted to start the car and the engine won't turn over...it will start to rev when I turn the key but it will not catch.... I'm not sure what the problem is, whether I messed up the timing or what...if anyone could please give me an idea on where to look/what to fix/how to fix it...I would greatly appreciate it...I'm at my wits end with this whole thing....Thanks

Hi everyone...I just had a quick question about taking out the timing belt to get to the oil pump...The haynes manuel says you need to put the engine at top dead center....is this procedure necessary and, if so, any advise on how to do this easily..... My car is a 96' Legacy 2.5 DOHC.....thanks for any help I receive. - Chris

Thank's to both Hklaine and Legacy 777 for all of the advice you have given...after some careful deliberation I have decided to man-up and do the job myself. I figure if pepboys already removed all of the belts etc and got to the oil pump, all the necessary bolts and stuff should not be frozen and i should be able to remove them...worst case senario is I can't do it all and get the car towed to a place and I won't have to pay all the labor.... If anyone has any idea how long this should take for a newbie so I can plan out a time to do it...I would appreciate it....thank you all...I love this site

thank you HKlaine, a couple more questions...I don't mean to be a pest, I just want to do this all right......if the water pump, crank seal, and timing belt were replaced last year...would these need to be replaced again due to the oil leak...also, the mechanic who looked at my car said it wasn't the crank seal or anything...that the leak was coming from "behind the oil pump wall". I'm not sure what that means, but I am hoping I can fix this myself.....Maybe he didn't remove the oil pump and this is what that means....not sure.....any additional help would be great....thank you all

Thanks for your help olnick, it's always appreciated.....do you or anyone know how you would fix the oil pumps back plate if it is loose and parts I should buy...new oil pump?....and does anyone else have any different opinion as to what the problem is.... I've looked through the haynes repair book as well as various posts on this site and it seems that removing the timing belt is more of a huge, time consuming pain rather than something which requires a lot of technical know-how....does anyone have any insight on how much technical know-how is required to do this and whether any special tools are required....thanks alot everyone.