gt4hire

So the front axles are completely interchangeable between 2wd and 4wd?

I have an '87 GL 2WD (motor died) that I'm using as a parts car to fix up an '87 GL 4WD. What parts can be swapped. The axles are just about new on the 2wd. I need a drivers side axle, spindle, brakes, etc. Are the axles / spindles the same or different? It's a freebie, but the person who had the 4wd had the axle welded to the hub in order to move the car. So I'm having to replace everything on the front drivers side. Any ideas?

Thanks Glen, will do in the morning. My diagram did not show the wire coming from the ignition switch. It's not the greatest. I'm not looking at the diagram right now but everything else seems to be what I had too as far as wire colors, etc.

Miles, I don't know whether or not I can do the same trick with my disty and SPFI? Will it hurt the IG amp or is it safe to do on mine?

I am reading and paying attention also. I think we may have the same problem. I believe it may be the switch too, or a loose wire (bad ground) somewhere. I went up under the dash, found the "ignition relay" and have started taking some readings - going by this wiring diagram in a Haynes Manual. The relay is good but the car hasn't acted up in a while for me to check voltages when it craps out. All the voltages are normal except for a question mark on the red/blu wire that goes back to the SPFI Control Unit from the relay. There is 2.75 volts there before the relay engages, (I would think it should be 0v), but then goes to 12.5v when engaged. I don't know if that is normal or not? The other side is fed by a red wire (12v from the fusible links) green link, and then to the battery. I haven't tried the + coil to the battery thing yet but it this does turn out to be the switch, I might just have to come up with one of those "push-button thingys". Aren't those IG switches pretty expensive? And tough to remove and install? Don't you have to remove the steering wheel and all? I'll go do some more checking and let you know the results. Greg

Yes Turbone, switched coils same problem. I had changed both the battery and the ignition coil about the same time, about a year ago when I first started having problems with this starting thing. I even bought an oversize battery and stuck it in there. I did seem to help... Fewer no starts. Let me update: The car will fail to start maybe 1 in 5 times, but when it does it's "no start" thing, there's no amount of cranking that will start it. (well, maybe occassionally) I just have gotten used to leaving it parked on a slight incline and then just "poppin the clutch". I think I do remember having someone jump me off earlier on, with the old battery, etc., and it started then... Yesterday I replaced the IG amp, cleaned all the contacts on the disty cap, rotor, and all the connections inside connectors associated with coil, disty, amp, etc. I haven't yet tried measuring any voltages at the coil or battery, but will do so today. Thanks for the input and suggestions Cougar, Shadow, Edrac. Will also try and check all my major + and - connections today. (can anyone tell me where to look for all of these, is there any that could be easily overlooked?) Later

Well, went to the salvage yard and found an ignition coil bracket w/ IG amp, cost me $5. I'm trying to go as cheap as I can these days, and thought I would try the IG amp fix first. - NO GO! Still have the same problem as before. What gives? I do have some questions though. This problem will definitely be solved one way or another... 1) Why will the car start by "poppin the clutch" when it doesn't start w/ the ignition switch? 2) Has anyone had a "disty failure" that once the car is started - runs forever as long as there is gas in the tank? Idle is smooth as silk... and runs strong. 3) Is there any way it might could be my "ignition switch" somehow? Although, the engine turns over every single time. (I did fail to mention that I do have a problem with my "low-beam headlights" - seems to be the switch on the steering column, but not sure. I only have "high-beam"). I didn't think the two problems were related, and may not be - just thought I would mention it? I can work the lever back and forth and occasionally get the low-beams to come on, but not for long. Running lights, turn signals, dash lights, all operating correctly... possible "gound problem"? wiring? what's my next step - I can trouble-shoot electronics, but this automotive wiring is a whole different ball of wax. 4) Could it be the ECU? I'm willing to invest in a "disty" just to rule that out, but what am I dealing with here? Any help appreciated...

Thanks you guys, I'm working on it. Seems like it's a popular Transistor used in several IG systems, but it's a discreet automotive component and hard to find much info on, specs, or a cross. Since the salvage yards are closed till monday... I'll do so more research and if no luck by then just go pick one up. Later! Greg

what do you mean by "direction of placement"? Electro-magnetic interference or something having to do with the Subaru Engine?

I replaced the coil with an Accel 8140. I believe at the time I checked it was a suitable replacement. It was replaced a while back and seems to be doing just fine, but still had the intermittant start problem. My GL is a 5-speed - so I don't have much of a problem, but my wife was wanting to start driving it back and forth to school (40+ mi round-trip) and I need to try and take care of this issue so she doesn't get stranded somewhere. BTW does anyone know the part # of just the Transistor (the # that is printed on the transistor) not the ignition amp? Mine has worn off and has some light rust pits and can't read. I have a background in electronics (not necessarily automotive though) and may have a replacement out in my shop. When I did take the ignition amp apart, it didn't have any other parts inside - just wiring. I thought that one of the leads on the transistor might be suspect and so that's why I resoldered them, but that must not have been the problem. I'd like to try and replace the ignition amp first before doing the disty thing if you know what I mean?

Correction: should have said "Ignition Amplifier". Sorry.

Thanks, I believe I've tried everything except the Disty and the ignition amplifier. I did take the Amplifier apart, re-soldered the contacts, and checked the wiring and connections but to no avail. Still intermittant. The disty fix sounds right except that it has never died on me once it starts. What are the odds on it just being the Amplifier (transistor) itself.

Hi, I'm a newbie here and need help! I have an intermittant starting problem that I believe may be caused by the ignition module. On my vehicle there's a metal bracket that holds the ignition coil - and below that on the same bracket is what I believe to be the ignition module? It has a big transistor attached and is using the metal bracket as a heat sink. When I'm having the problem, the engine turns over but I don't seem to be getting any fire. So I changed the coil and plug wires - but still have a problem. Is this in fact the ignition module, and does anyone know the part # or a place I can find a replacement? Thanks