XDGT03

Thanks, That is more or less what I did. Because I have both a 4 sp and 5 sp with lock posi front diffs I bought a used one from a yard in SD and tore the both the new used 4 sp and old 4 spd apart and swapped the diffs. I kept the axle bearings and races together and had to remove the caps. The marks wouldn't necessarily match up after. I suppose if they are too tight they will whine so I can loosen them. Also, do you know what spf gear lube is recommended. I think the synchros are hard metal not a soft one like brass so I believe you can use spf-4. I appreciate your help moosens. Thanks man. Scott BTW, if someone needs some pointers on tearing apart the tranny, let me know. I have some suggestions. I didn't take the gear sets apart tho.

What is the proper adjustment for the star like bearing caps on the sides of a manual trans where the output shafts are.

Thank you. That is some very good info. I would still like to hear from you moosens when you get some time. I would like to get an LSD. I have a locked posi right now and it is a bit too much for the kind of racing I'm doing. Next year I might get into the road racing and the posi would be good then. I just bought a complete set of Microfiche for all 1971 thru 1998 Subaru's except SVX and Justy off ebay for $20. I know it isn't the best method for finding info but I will have it. Now I just have to find a microfiche reader.

More of the reason I was asking was to see if maybe a coilover for another vehicle would work. Yes, the insert in the cartridge can be changed but is the mount on the bottom the same as some other newer car like say an 80's honda civic? The top is not too much a concern because that can be modified. The bottom attaches inside the steering knuckle and that cannot easily be modified. Thanx for the suggestions:headbang:

for 1973 Has anyone used struts from a different model or even a different manufacturer's car? The bottom mounts look very similar to other cars but many things can look the same and be way different.

Can synthetic oils and lubes be used in the 73 models for motors, brakes, trans gear lube, etc... Do the manual trans' use soft metal in them for say the synchros? Can you tell me the recommended gear lube weight and rating (gl-3; gl-4; etc...)? Brake fluid says DOT3. Is there any harm in using higher temp and/or synthetics? Thanx for any help you can provide.

As some of you know I bought that 73 gl race car...the one that was on ebay. I am very new to these vintage subarus and would like to find out some info about the cars of that area. Now my car has the 1.3 liter with a 5 speed manual trans. The oe engine and trans was 1.4l and 4 speed manual trans. I assume the cases for the trans' are identical or at least the bellhousing/shifter linkage/driveshaft outputs/ etc... are the same. Do the 4 speed and 5 speed use the same differential? Was the OE differential a limited slip or a standard 1 drive wheel dif? It appears that the axle shaft on the drivers side is smaller in diameter than the one on the passenger side. Is this the case? Can you use axle shafts from other models on my car? Is there still a good reliable source for oe equivelant parts like brake kits, engine gaskets, trans gears, boots, seals, bearings etc... I have checked on ebay and found a few things. I know brakes are still available. Has anyone put say an EA82 in these cars? I assume you would need a modified engine cradle but has it been done with that or some other motor? The 1.3 and 1.4 use the same block and heads with just a larger bore, right? I was betting the 1.6 was all different with longer stroke and larger bore. Am I right? I think that is enough for this thread lol I will start another one for fluids. Thank you for you help with this info:)

thanx, noobie here so please bare with my silly questions:-\

Those are sweet. Nice find:headbang: BTW, what is the bolt pattern?

$2000 with a spare 1400 motor, race pistons, spare trans, numerous gaskets sets, repair manuals, 4 boxes of spare parts, etc... Actually, I paid $1000 and my race partner/co-driver paid $1000.

I'll bring this thread back from the dead lol What type of gear oil does the manual trans take in a 73 gl fwd? I guess the better question is what kind of synchros it has. Are the a soft metal like brass? Would Redline MT90 synthetic work?

I bought it. I pick it up today. I will be racing it in AutoX and maybe some road racing next year. I'll be bend your guy's ears a lot I think. I will do a lot of searching on the forum first tho.

I just bought that blue car (1973 GL). I pick it up today. Hence, why I am on this forum now. Those are koni adjustables in the rear. I don't know much more than that yet. I will be "discovering" these such things over the next few weeks. There have to be plenty of options out there. It is not a complicated car and should be able to use parts from other cars without too much problem. the blue car weighs just 1500lbs so it needs to be pretty compliant in the rear since the weight distribution must be like 70/30. I can lift the rear of the car off the ground from the bumper by hand. lol

Yes, sorry, I should have been a bit more specific. I posted in the off roading section because this is for racing applications only. It is to lower the center of gravity. Dropping the engine and trans 60mm will yield a significant benefit to those who rally race. It will also be of great benefit to those who autocross, however it is likely beyond the needs and cost constraints of Solo II'rs. There are other performance products available as well. Including a flywheel/clutch package. The flywheel weighs 5.54lbs. Stainless/anodized.

Would anyone be interested in a kit to lower your engine 60mm's. The kit would come with equal length SS ceramic coated headers and custom engine craddle, shims for the transmission, and shortened drive-shaft. Prices are not set. I'm simply gauging interest. Background: I work for a company that produces custom WRX conversions for world class rally's. Here are a few pics of works in progress Edit: Sorry for the pic being offset. I don't know what happened. Edit2: huh, it's fixed I guess