shannon

I see, it's the adaptor stocked at subaru dealers. Still gonna try and go get a used one. I've been reading the other thread from a few days ago and getting hints. Essentially, all of my research on this board shows me soobie speedo setups are a little problematic...

So, I'm really just looking for someone else who's had the extension off the transmission removed and in their hands. Seems like some sort of protrusion should be coming from the bottom of it. Before and after my posts, I've looked all over the forums trying to gather the data, seems like this part is the least likely to fail of the three parts in the system;'tranny connector', cable, and gauge. Right? Trying to decide if I should be concerned about the posibility this thing pooped a peice of metal into my transmission two-three months after a rebuild. No wierd noises, works fine...? Gonna try to find the used part today, I'll be back...

Thanks, I'm not sure how I'm going to move the car while looking at this stuff. I'll certainly try if need be... According to local soob parts desk '97 is the year they changed over from mechanical to electronic. Removed the extension, is it supposed to have two female ends? In the morning light I couldn't see anything peeking out of the hole in the trans where it screws in. If there is supposed to be a shaft in the base of this thing it's definitely gone. Of course, I'm trying to will it to be this part...I can envision fixing it myself. Not sure if I can go back to where the transmission was fixed as it's been so long.:-\

Hey Folks, been a while... I've got a '97 imp wagon 2.2 mt, 120(?)k tranny rebuilt last December. That was a bummer, b-t-w...and was when I last posted here. At issue now is a non-functioning speedometer, quit around March. Lived with it for a little too long, and what's really pressing is where I live it can't pass inspection as the condition causes check engine light to stay on. I've purchaced and installed a new cable, and now own two gauge clusters. Old cable had a brown substance all through it (tranny fluid? read about that in an other post here...) and fell apart upon removal. I had convinced myself cable was the probelm. Nope, re-assembled, no needle movement. Gunk was on speedo head too, assumed that's what did it and considered myself lucky to find the exact match for my gauges on ebay. Just got the new(er) cluster, put it in, still no reading. Zero. What hasn't been replaced is the 6"-7" solid section between bottom of cable and transmission housing. Anyone experienced with this part on this car? Could there have been a step I missed in diagnosing the problem? The $ investment thus far isn't quite as bad as when the tranny went, but I'm dropping lots of time on it. Meanwhile, state of NC is sending letters regarding fines for non-compliance. Help please!

Hi folks, a leak in the rear differential cover gasket was recently brought to my attention by the guy at the Vavoline drive-thru oil change joint. Being someone who owns and notices subarus, he related to me this being 'common on imprezas' He reffered me to a local subaru specialist I'd heard of but doubt I can afford right now. It's a '97 imp. wagon, manual trans., 90k. I've enjoyed it for about 2 months now. First, is this common and if so does anyone know of an aftermarket upgrade for this gasket so that this is the only time I need to do this? Second, who's done this repair and how tough can it be? I've done about three front axles, so you get an idea where my skill level is.

Thank you very much, that makes a lot of sense. There would also not be any kind of indication (rust, leaks) of a problem with the master cylinder from the outside. So, would you suggest at this point I go ahead and bench bleed the MC? (method help?) Sounds like that's the only way to know for sure it is shot, and at that point replace it. It does sound like I've been bleeding incorrectly. When moving the pedal during the bleed I thought it was supposed to go as far as possible. Should it only be pressed to where I feel it should land? That could be a fundamental I'm missing...as well as a trusted, reliable friend to help with this. I definitely appreciate the guidance you guys are giving me here.

The Master Cylinder has never run dry on my watch, when I got this car 2 years ago it had 195k on it... Let me run down my one-man bleed method...you guys tell me if/how I'm doing something wrong. The following steps have been carried out 6-7 times in the past week or two: Open MC cap, attach vinyl hose to front right bleeder screw, place other end of hose in jar of fluid. Open screw, depress brake pedal, hold pedal down (I use a board wedged behind the clutch pedal), check for bubbles in tube...if bubbles are present release and depress again. With pedal down, close bleeder. Proceed and repeat... left rear, left front, then right rear. On the last wheels I've actually tried closing the screw with the pedal depressed and upright with similar results. I don't fear changing the master cylinder, did it on my '73 pontiac about 10 years ago. If it comes to that, I'll ask you guys the bench-bleed method as obviously my chiltons book is not helping me much. Thanks again.

No leaks on or near it, what other physical symptoms could I look for? Certainly was the reason I bled 'em. I needed the other stuff anyway. But beside the noise & shake I had before new pads/rotors, this was a big indicator i needed to get off my rump roast and fix the brakes before someone gets seriously hurt.

Hi - thanks for reading this. I've got brake issues, here goes: '91 Legacy Wagon AWD ABS. Changed all of the pads, and the rotors on the front. Bled the brakes per instruction for ABS brakes in the Chilton's book I have. In the event I'm driving for awhile without touching the brakes, upon first application of the pedal, brakes engage about 1.5" from the floor. After that initial use they'll stay 'pumped' to an almost normal but not quite comfortable position, only to recede again after I'm going for a little while. This is, of course, a dangerous condition requiring immediate and accurate attention. Any suggestions on which component I should check next, and how I check it...would be greatly appreciated. Sh-

Thanks so much, you wouldn't believe how much I've had to search for that info. I'll be digging into my dash at the first daylight opportunity I have. What brand of manual do you use? My chilton's book says nothing about a "Turn Signal and Hazard Unit". Sh-

Hello, nice site. I'll be here pretty often as I have a '91 Legacy with .25 million miles on it. The turn signals as well as the hazzards just stay on when I try to use them. I'm guessing that my flasher relay is bad. I saw a picture of it at the parts store, but I can't seem to find it in my car. Can you help me? Sh-