faunjoustino
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Posts posted by faunjoustino
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12 minutes ago, GeneralDisorder said:
Not likely if the upper hose nipple sheared off. That radiator was questionable when the repair was done. That's OFTEN how these radiators fail - almost never having been in an accident. I replaced a 2014 radiator a few months back where the same thing happened - upper hose nipple got soft and turned a brown color and just sheared away from the tank. The Super Blue coolant in conjunction with higher temp thermostats is causing this to be a more frequent occurrence. Radiator lifespan is down to about 8-10 years and 10 is pushing it.
GD
Yea I get how it looks, from what I was told my dad didn't have the money to fix anything beside the HG's and the job was done as a courtesy and was strictly the HG's no timing belt or water pump. but again all the things I've been told about the car and what was or wasn't done, is all just hear say and I cant trust any of it to a certain degree so I'm just drawing my own conclusions based on what I know and what the car does, we will have to see what happens once I install the new radiator and luckily I only ran Super blue through it for about 2 days and I've driven less than 3 miles since she's been turned on.
I haven't taken her on a longer drive or even over 30mph so we will have to see what happens with further trial and error.
once I install the new radiator I will drive it across town and see what happens.
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14 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:
Changed 3 years ago and they didn't do the (obviously questionable) radiator? Zero confidence in that repair....
GD
I understand your skepticism but the HG's wered changed and sometime after the repair the car was in an accident and hit a tree, and since the radiator is curved like a banana at the bottom I would think that had something to do with it.
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1 hour ago, GeneralDisorder said:
Why waste all that money and time when it needs head gaskets?
You don't make any sense. Pull the engine and do the HG's or swap it. Don't waste time and money doing a bunch of sh1t you will just have to redo to replace the HG's. That's just stupidity.
Well I don't have the thousands of dollars for a HG or the swap at the moment. And there is a difference between being stupid and being ignorant. this is why I ask a bunch of questions so I can learn and not be a dumb a s s, but from what all I've been told and what I've tested in the past couple days I cannot say it has head gaskets issues with 100% confidence. With all the info I've provided to you guys and all the info you guys have given back you always said its "most likely" a HG, but "most likely" doesn't mean definitely and until I eliminate the other obvious reasons it would over heat I cant say it for sure quit yet.
Until the already broken radiator hose broke off even more it maintained temp and drove fine, I don't think its the head gasket at this point but I still have more testing to do before I know for sure.
at this point a piece if the cooling system is broken so we will just have to see what happens in another week.
once I know its NOT the cooling system failing and if it overheats after this then I think its obvious and I will be getting a full diagnostic after I swap the radiator regardless if it overheats or not.
I know for a fact the HG's were changed 3 years ago and it seems that I didn't overheat it to the point where I blew them.
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---- 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L H4 AWD Automatic ----
Hey all!!
This is a continuation of my dads car that sat for 2 years outside in Montana.
Just looking for pointers as I things here and there.
Just this past weekend I finally started the car! Good news is that it runs pretty darn good considering what its been through.
What I've done so far:
- Changed the valve cover gaskets, spark plug gaskets, grommets for the bolts.
- Spark plugs
- Oil and Oil filter
- Thermostat, Radiator cap and coolant.
- Drained old fuel and added new fuel
So after 2 years she started up and ran fine, fans kicked on and I burped the system for bit then capped it off and drove it around the block a few times.
Everything feels pretty good, lots of power (for 160Hp that is), breaks work but need to be changed, power steering squeaks a tad when fully locked out to either side.
Couple issues.
1. When shifting from Park into reverse, there is a bit of a lunge or soft clunk and you can definitely feel the car shake a bit. When driving through the gears its good but could be a little smoother.
So I'm not sure what is all to be concerned with there.
2. I was test driving and I noticed the temp gauge started to move a tad bit past the middle so I drove back a 1/4 mile and parked it and saw a trail of me dripping coolant all around the apartment complex. Popped the hood and found the upper radiator hose spraying coolant out the side. I grabbed the hose and it came right off and there was a piece of the upper radiator port broken off inside the hose and I squeezed the hose and the plastic part of the port stuck in there snapped so it was very brittle and from my memory of when it was overheating 2 years ago in Montana, that hose was spewing coolant. so time for a new radiator.
Any precautions I should take when swapping the radiator out seeing as how there was broken pieces in the hose and I'm worried some may have gotten in the engine? however It seemed fine while driving back other than I noticed the temp gauge rising. and should I go OEM with the new radiator? they are currently like $300
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On 1/13/2022 at 5:52 PM, GeneralDisorder said:
This engine does not use Super-Blue coolant and never did. That came 10 years later in 2009. And it eats plastic cooling system components. I would avoid it at all costs on vehicles not designed for it. It is NOT better than standard green.
Ok so.... Keep in mind this car just got done sitting for two years and I just turned it on 2 days ago.
Just changed the valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, oil and oil filter, thermostat and coolant.
I just filled my system to the brim with Super-Blue.....car has been running fine and just yesterday my upper radiator hose kind of sprayed itself loose. I was driving starting getting slightly over middle on the temp gauge, parked it and checked the hose came right off and the plastic port on the radiator was broken off and stuck inside the hose.
Its hard to tell if the plastic was already broken or not but considering that 2 years ago I remember seeing coolant coming out of that hose and I'm only just now remembering this and the car sat and parts are brittle I'm hoping that It was already like that because even though what you said about it eating plastic I don't think it would eat it in barely 2 days.. or would it? I'm not sure
I'm replacing the radiator anyways because looking at it now it literally curved from being hit apparently. but what coolant should I be using? can you provide me a link to the right stuff? and is there anything i should do other than drain the blue out and replace it?
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55 minutes ago, idosubaru said:
The decision to swap or repair should be based on how much you trust that this engine wasn't severely overheated before and how good is the warranty on the used engine?
Multiple times over a long period of time or really hot for an extended period of time are bad for the lower end bearings. I'd pay $1,000 more to repair that engine then take a gamble on a 25 year old used one that may have overheated before, been repaired (how well), and potentially deal with used engine warranties....if you know it wasn't likely overheated much in it's past.
So when i drove this car 2 years ago it was overheating and my dad had a bottle of coolant in the car because it kept loosing coolant, I think it was evaporating in the overflow tank from getting too hot, but not 100% sure.
So I have no clue how much is was overheated other than when I drove it , and what do you consider overheating? Anything past the middle of the gauge? temp 3/4 to H? what exactly is excessive?
Because when I drove it to its 2 year temporary grave site, the gauge was going from middle to about 3/4 to H and I would pull over let it "cool down" for about 15 mins throw some of the coolant from the overflow back into the radiator and or water, after each stop it cooled down a bit and was stable for about 5 mins and If my memory serves me correctly I think the temp gauge ended up moving towards H pretty even with me stepping on the throttle, as in Id give it some gas and it would climb to about 3/4 to H and I would slow down and it would drop a bit.
Its hard to say how long I actually drove it like that but id say all together NOT including pulling over and waiting about 15-25 mins of slow careful driving and pulling over when it got about to 3/4 to H.
what do you think?
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On 1/11/2022 at 6:42 PM, GeneralDisorder said:
That's a mildly-high quote. And I fear they have no idea what they are talking about.....
An EJ22E swap from a 1995 automatic takes no more time than pulling and installing the original engine. This is generally about 6 hours. If you also figure a complete reseal of said engine (good idea), then you can probably figure about 14 hours. Doing HG's on-up. A qualified tech can probably do this in half that. But we consider the worst possible scenario - heli-coil many threads, lots of cleaning and prep, etc......
251 bottom end swap is similar - should be about 14-16 hours at MOST.
Shops do quote high. Hell.... I know this better than anyone - people ask me for quotes on the most outlandish things you can imagine - we are really a high performance speed and tuning shop that does repair and maintenance to keep the lights on in the winter, etc. Many of my customers don't trust any other shop because I'm honest to a fault - I charge what is needed to pay my employees a proper living wage and keep my lights on.
I'm also not in the repair market in your area of the country so it's really hard for me to determine an "honest" quote.
GD
Total came out to $4,319.37
does this seem high enough to just swap the engine out?
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2 hours ago, idosubaru said:
Subaru book time is 12 hours. *exactly* what they are doing the other 5-13 hours? I mean list it out for that 10 hour up charge
“wiring or mechanical hiccups” is insufficient, and meaningless.
There are no wiring and mechanical “hiccups”. Anything like that should be addressed as they proceed not paid for ahead of time like insurance you probably won’t need.
Shops don’t upcharge your tires before they’re installed just “in case” studs break, TPMS crack, or a wheel is bent - they encounter an issue, tell you the issue, options to resolve it, and you both work it out.
Same here check exhaust - note if there’s rust and potential costs if that’s problematic. If you’re ordering a JDM engine then SAY it specifically, there’s maybe 1-2 hours extra work for potential wiring or shipping damages. But you didn’t say JDM so we cant even be generous with a minuscule 1-2 hour up charge.
It seems like they’re trying to make it sound like particle physics so you sign and trust their Einsteinian skills.
This sounds harsh but mostly for illustration and clarity since all we have is a text screen - Why are you paying top dollar, praising their skills, and come here to ask for advice on what parts to get?
That’s just bizarre. I’m not even a trained mechanic never worked in a shop and I’ve already made more sense and given more quantitative Subaru specific information than they have in 6 minutes.
They should be leading that charge if they’re that good and qualified and expensive.
Haha doesn't sounds harsh I get it and I always appreciate you guys, and the advice you provide!
Im not explaining everything they have explained to me about the car, this was a rough quote they gave without even looking at the car, so the quote is worst case scenario.
I havent paid anything yet and havent had any work done, I used the words "wiring or mechanical hiccups” not them so im not sure what all is involved with it but I imagine "wiring" is probably 1 of the things that could take extra time and being that the other half of the car is old and was sitting for 2 years I assume there would be some issues that spring up that should be addressed.
Aside from that im sure you can agree that doing my due diligence to make sure im getting the best service at the best price, is a good idea, which is why im asking questions here as well as getting quotes and asking questions. The more knowledge I seek and questions I ask the more it benefits me and my vehicle.
But with all the advice from the community here and the Subaru mechanics im sure ill find the right people at the right price.
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--- 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L DOHC 4EAT AWD ---
Hey all!
In anticipation of a engine swap I was talking with my local shop that is insanely experienced and truly honest, fair and professional their name is Kaiju Motorsports here in Henderson, Near Las Vegas Nevada. Let me know if there any other shops out here so far this seems to be the top notch shop in Vegas.
They quoted me about 17-25 hours @110/hr for a swap with a 2.2L or 2.5L, they said it would be that many hours due to all the inevitable issues that pop up with an engine swap like wiring and other mechanical hiccups.
Is that a fair quote for guys who 100% know what they are doing? its not just swap and that's it they make sure it fully functional and kinks are worked out before the job is "done"
also if I'm buying an engine what else is necessary to purchase? I imagine its not just buy 1 engine and that's it, I'm sure there will be new gaskets or wires or ecu i have no idea.. so what else am I looking for when "buying an engine" so I can price things out ahead of time.
also let me know if swapping to an H6 ez30 is a better idea since i want to lift this thing 2 inches and make it a camper and i doubt that the 2.2 will make life very enjoyable loaded up with camping gear, they quoted about 25-35 hours for that.
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1 hour ago, GeneralDisorder said:
There's no good options for retaining the power of the 25D without using another 25D.
If it's just head gaskets that's the problem - swap the pistons out for 2000 - 2004 pistons, and use the 642 STi head gaskets. I would seek QUALIFIED professional assistance. Tell them what you want (EJ251 pistons, heads properly resurfaced, and STi 642 MLS gaskets installed) and if they don't IMMEDIATELY know what you are talking about - call another shop till you get a place that's reputable and understands these common modifications.
I wouldn't jump into doing this yourself given the limited experience you have.
GD
Hey brother is there anyway you can provide me your contact info? Email or phone through private message? you always have great advice and id love to see if there is any way you could help me out here and there with this project. I understand you have your own shop and all so maybe you can point me in the right direction, i trust your advice and id like a reliable source I can reach out to without making a post on here every time haha.
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1 hour ago, idosubaru said:
1995 automatic 2.2 is best for reliability
Any 1996-1998 EJ25 or 99 Outback or Legacy will work as well. But they’re not good to buy used for the same reason you’re replacing it.
59 minutes ago, GeneralDisorder said:There's no good options for retaining the power of the 25D without using another 25D.
Roger that guys thank you for the advice as always.
Will the 2.2 be strong enough for a 2 inch lift and camping supplies or should I just stick to looking for a 25Dalso am I looking for SOHC or DOHC? whats the main difference?
Any particular websites or places where I should be looking for engines?I found these websites
https://www.jdmenginedepotinc.com/product-category/subaru/
and this website
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--- 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L H4 DOHC 4EAT AWD ---
Hey All!!
I've looked through forums and other threads but cant find what I need.
I might have to do an engine swap here soon depending on whether or not this engine is worth fixing.
I really want to lift this thing about 1.5-2 inches and go 1 size up in tire size from 205/70/R15 to ---> 215/75/R15
My Goal is for it to be a good camping vehicle that can try to keep up with my buddies jeep.
If I'm going to do an engine swap id like to have enough power to accomplish this goal without it being underpowered after the lift plus camping gear and full size spare etc...
I want an easy swap, something that's pretty plug and play hopefully around 10-15 hours of labor.
Im pricing out having a shop just do it for me but I am pretty mechanically inclined and I'm quite sure I could swap an engine myself with the proper tools and meticulous labeling and organizing of all the wires hoses and other stuff.
For someone who has never even come close to swapping an engine, however I have changed spark plugs, distributor and a thermostat, I Imagine it would be easier to swap an engine with no experience than say replacing head gaskets with no experience, but again I have no clue, I just feel like it would be a bit less advanced to swap a intact engine and just hook up some hoses wires and bolts etc..
Let me know if I should just stop this line of reasoning and leave it to the pros or not haha.
But other than that what engine would be the best option for what I want to do. Hopefully plug and play enough that it doesn't cost too many shop hours or plug and play enough for me to do it if yall think that's a good idea.
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9 hours ago, el_freddo said:
What you need to know @faunjoustino:
- GD owns and runs his own Subaru specialist workshop. His advice is worth gold in our community.
- while it was your dad’s vehicle and you’re precious of it, what you plan to do to get it up and running could be an exercise in wasting money - only because you can’t definitively explain why it was overheating.
Personally I would’ve done as GD said as a matter of course for me. Getting it started on the old fluids won’t hurt it so long as there’s oil and coolant/water where it should be.
Once it’s running then work out where any issues are - coolant leaks, split hoses or if it is the dreaded head gasket, which being the DOHC EJ25D seems highly likely.
Once you know it runs and what needs what, that’s when you start spending your hard earned to keep it running sweet and to daily drive it. This is when you change the oil and the coolant etc.
I hope this puts a few things into perspective. We understand it’s sentimental to you, but this doesn’t mean you have to waste money on it for no good reason. Trying to catch all of your new coolant when you need to pull and tear down the engine due to HG replacement is not fun. Many of us have been there and done that!
Cheers
Bennie
thanks a ton and yes GD's advice is always awesome.
I have unfortunately already the oil and coolant and will be turning the key tomorrow. so we will have to see how that goes from here.
lets cross our fingers
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41 minutes ago, GeneralDisorder said:
2 years is nothing. I wouldn't do any of that - just start it. Get it hot THEN do the oil change (before putting the engine under a load).
Don't worry about the fuel. Run it under light load down to the gas station and put in some premium. Don't try to pull any trailers up 5,000 ft grades before you run that low octane gas out of it. But don't bother draining it. It will fire. Change the fuel filter with a FACTORY Subaru filter AFTER you get new fuel cycled through the old filter.
Is the coolant green? Betcha it is. Run it.
If you like you can unplug the crankshaft position sensor and crank the engine till the oil pressure idiot light goes out. Reconnect and start it. Optional IMO. Will be fine either way I recon.
You are putting way too much thought into this. Run it.
Bubbles in the overflow that never stop are a sure sign of impending or current Head Gasket failure. Basically inevitable on that engine. The 25D has gaskets that are too thick. The best solution is 251 pistons and 642 turbo head gaskets - along with proper prep and installation of course.
GD
I'm doing all this
1. because this was my dads car before he passed away and I don't have very many of his things and this is a big thing.
2. its going to be my daily driver once its up and running.
3. Im quite sure when we put water in the radiator we diluted it far too much to trust running it
Ive already drained the gas and changed the oil and filter.
now im doing new OEM coolant and new thermostat and radiator cap
and finally spark plugs and valve covers and because they are leaking or at least I think they are and again I need this car to work and i want to elminate these smaller potential issues and get to the bottom of the problem and fix it.
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2 hours ago, lmdew said:
If you had bubbles in the overflow tank, most likely the HG are leaking.
While it's nice to do all this other maintenance, it's most likely a waste of time and money.
Make sure the fluids are all clean and topped off and start it up. Make sure the HG are not gone. If so a 2.2 swap is a good option IMHO.
I really hope not, ive checked as much as i can and the gaskets seem to be in tact.
and what if im remembering incorrectly and it was the coolant just being so hot its boiling, I know that's probably not much better.
but we will just have to see this weekend -
---- 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L H4 AWD Automatic ----
Hey all!! This is a car that sat for 2 years outside in Montana and its my camper project.
To be clear I haven't started this car in 2 years. I'm taking every preventative measure that I know of before I start this thing so I don't cause any extra damage. I was the last person to drive it 2 years ago and it was overheating a bit (or the gauge was saying it was), bubbles coming up through the overflow tank, we only drove it about 2-3 miles pulling off every few hundred feet to let it cool down and pour water in the radiator since its all we had. without having turned it on yet the head gaskets appear to be in tact and they were changed to MLS about 3 years ago, so I certainly hope I haven't blown anything from that small drive. Nothing crazy happened that I could tell, no loss of power or anything abnormal while I was driving it all seemed normal other than bubbles coming up through the overflow reservoir.
Anyway my goal is to not damage anything else when I turn it on. When I changed the oil it was not milky and showed no signs of coolant mixing with the oil, it looked like normal oil and I don't quite know if I can say that that means I didn't blow a gasket so if anyone could tell me what else I should be worried about and from a visual inspection, the Valve/Rocker cover gaskets seemed to be dripping oil or maybe it dripped from somewhere else I'm not sure but again I'm taking every precaution I can other than super expensive overly involved repairs like a water pump, timing belt and head gaskets.
other than advice for my general goal of getting this thing running without extra issues or at least turn it on and have it running well enough that I can identify bigger issues that require me taking it into the pros, I need help with the replacement of these valve/rocker cover gaskets.
I am changing these valve/rocker cover gaskets, grommets and bushings out along with the spark plugs since ill be down there anyway.
The owner service manual says I should put "fluid packing sealant" on the corners of the semi circular part of the covers and a couple other places. I have no clue what an appropriate amount of sealant is, and I'm not confident enough that the diagram from the service manual shows all of the right spots.
So if someone could help me out and maybe provide a thread, video or personal advice on how to do this properly.
Other precautions I'm taking before turning the key for the first time in 2 years (please help me add to the list or let me know what steps to do something properly:
1. Oil change and oil filter change
2. Drain old fuel from gas tank
3. Drain old coolant and add new, as well as bleed system of air with radiator funnel kit.
4. OEM thermostat replacement
5. Replace spark plugs.
6. Fogging oil sprayed in cylinders while spark plugs are out.
Tell me what I'm missing and feel free to ask me to clarify anything I left out -
1 hour ago, idosubaru said:
You should specify what you mean by "normal" diff locker, in Subaru world there isn't a "normal".
Broadly speaking a "diff locker" usually refers to a rear, or front, differential. The Duty C switch controls the rear transfer functionality of the transmission, and not the front or rear differential like a truck with a "locker".
A 4WD truck with a "locker" will have the transfer case and a locking rear diff.
A subaru with this switch will just have control of the transfer function, it has nothing to do with front and rear diffs.
9 hours ago, laegion said:When it's locked it's no different than any other locker. The mechanism is different but the effect is the same.
So what am I "locking" with this solenoid if its not the diff? im a little confused. haha sorry yall
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22 minutes ago, idosubaru said:
No, with it “off” it’s like the switch isn’t even there and was never installed. It just would then drive like every other Subaru on the road without a switch.
this assume it’s installed correctly of course
Gotcha, thanks again!
how does this work compared to a "normal" diff locker? what are the key differences?
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6 hours ago, idosubaru said:
Duty C isn’t designed for continuous use via a switch so that non standard use could wear it out. I’ve never seen it happen and I’ve used it probably more than just about anyone on here in a few vehicles and 10s of thousands of miles. I’ve even used it continuously for 10s of thousands of miles to work around other mechanical issues.
I like it in snow and mud. It gives definitive immediate traction and no chance of the wheel momentarily slipping and starting a rut.
Thank you for the advice!
Will doing this Duty-C mod cause any "ratcheting, popping or binding" around corners and stuff during regular road driving when its not turned on?
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3 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:
I wouldn't worry about it. You are not likely to need a rear locker. You can use the parking brake to help with power transfer on the rear or just modulate the service brakes to keep wheels without traction from absorbing all the power. The rear locker isn't cheap, takes quite a bit of knowledge to install properly, and make on-road driving a bit annoying since it will ratchet, pop, and bind around sharp turns. I would leave this mod to people that are doing 4"+ lifts and don't care about on road driving.
You can do the modification for the duty-c to lockup the transfer clutch - it's easy and inexpensive so worth your time if you are interested.
GD
Thanks for the advice!
I want to lift her only 1"-1.5" with 215/75/R15's all terrains as the smallest upgrade I could find for tires, I don't want to lose too much power by lifting it more than that and putting bigger tires that are require more torque to turn
what are the downsides of the Duty-C lockup? and will I even need it?
At the end of the day I just want to drive to some off the beaten path camping spots, I don't want to go rock crawling or aggressive off-roading. I want to baby her while being capable of going on tougher trails. I will drive cautiously and will have proper recovery gear just in case, but I want this thing to be a tank for medium off-roading obstacles. -
27 minutes ago, idosubaru said:
Used properly it's a nonissue in snow, mud, grass, offroad. There aren't really many options though.
The rear VLSD differentials wear out and function like the open rear differential you already have so they're kind of pointless to buy used.
If you have a manual trans you can't get a locking center diff.
If you have an automatic you can install a switch to manually control the Duty C solenoid output for the rear transfer cluthes (a.k.a. "center diff") - which is what I, and others here, have done before.
Hell yea i didnt know i already had a diff i can use, thats awesome! any threads or videos on how to hook that switch up?
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Hey all!
---1999 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5---
Just curious about getting a center or rear differential that I can lock and unlock.
I know its a good move to improve off-road capabilities however I am concerned about additional damage I might be doing to the vehicle.
Should I be worried about potentially breaking or wearing down parts faster due to the diff lock? If so which parts should I keep an eye on, keep a back up of, or upgrade ahead of time? to avoid being towed home after breaking something I could have upograded or prepared better for. -
30 minutes ago, GeneralDisorder said:
In general you need to familiarize yourself with the form and function of this vehicle. The compliant I always had about off-roading with Subaru groups, or lifted vehicle groups in general:
If you follow me you almost certainly will eventually break something. I don't want to hear your big baby tantrum about A. How am I going to get to work - this is my daily and my only vehicle!, or B. I need help fixing it because I don't know how or don't want to get dirty.
Invariably someone breaks their daily driver (or worse their dads/moms/sisters car) and turns out they are helpless and I get roped into fixing some junk in the mud/snow/gravel/all-of-the-above because somehow I feel bad for the poor broke moron and somewhat responsible because I encouraged their bad decisions or enabled them in some way.
Don't be that guy. I'll find you. And I'll slap you.
GD
Haha wow thanks again for the plethora of info and advice!
I 100% plan on being an expert at anything that could go wrong with my vehicle over time, as well as having backups for most practical situations and your advice will go a long way to steer me in the right direction.Being that this car was my fathers before he passed away it has extreme sentimental value and its my daily driver so I don't plan on being TOO stupid when off-roading, however some stupidity will inevitably cross my path by my own doing or someone else and I plan to be prepared to get out safely with my vehicle in one piece.
I cant wait to get this thing out where she belongs.... Parked by a river I just fished my dinner out of.
thank again GD!! See you on the trail!!
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17 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:
Spare Tire (also fix-a-flat).
Water (for vehicle and for people). Always carry at least a gallon of water in addition to what you think you need for drinking.
40 weight oil. Don't bother with coolant - you can use water. Same with brake fluid - if you have to crimp off a hard line to a wheel with a malfunction you can fill the system with water (or urine if things go that sideways) and limp home - you also have the hand brake to assist in limp mode. You can put 40 weight oil in the engine, in the transmission or power steering (temporary - flush it out with ATF when you get home). Engine, transmission, and brakes are all you need.
Starter (because automatic - manual cars can be bump or tow started).
Alternator
Coil pack
Front axle
Radiator hoses, heater core hose.
Spare accessory belts. Especially the alternator/PS belt. If you are really on top of it carry a belt that can run the alt by itself - in case the PS pump grenades.
Fuses and basic wiring kit with wire, terminals, crimpers, etc.
Basic tool kit. Small 3/8" socket set. 10, 12, 14, 17, 19mm wrenches. pliers (multi-tool). Hammer (or back end of your axe).
32mm socket, 1/2" breaker bar, pry bar, and 3/16" pin punch - this is to change that front axle if required.
Bailing wire, duct tape, and aircraft safety wire w/pliers.
Inspect and tighten all your chassis components after each outing. Things like ball joints, tie rod ends, and control arms are not generally a failure point on mildly lifted Subaru's - inspect them and replace at signs of wear or damage. Sh1t happens and you'll need to always have a backup plan for recovery (friends with BIG vehicles, AAA membership, etc). There will always be obstacles and circumstances where a 2" lifted Subaru is not going to go and may need assistance. Here's a hilarious video of a jeep being pulled through 18" of snow like a toboggan by an LMTV:
If you are going out alone then definitely let several friends and relatives know the general area you are going to, and when to expect your return. Also you should carry the 10 C's of survival (highly recommend Andrew's YouTube channel - subscribe to it):
GD
WOW thank you so much for all the advice.
What kind of wiring kit would you recommend? im not sure what kind of "wiring kit" would be appropriate i haven't the slightest clue what wiring kit or wires to get.
aside from that you said ball joints, tie rod ends, and control arms aren't my biggest concern, you mentioned just the front axle, is that really all i would need a back up of? what about a rear axle? is there anything else that would be worth packing as a backup? I know preventative maintenance is the most important thing i can do to avoid changing a U-joint at night time, but what else is practical to have as a backup for a 1999 Legacy outback? Also what parts should i consider upgrading ahead of time?
99 Outback 2.5L 4EAT
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
---- 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L H4 AWD Automatic ----
Hey all!!
So I'm painfully aware of how little power the EJ25D has and I want to lift the car to have at least 8.5" of ground clearance, 9-9.5" would be awesome however I'm worried about losing torque and power with bigger tires.
I've mostly seen good lifts regarding the H6 or other slightly more powerful engines and they've gone up to 29"or 32" tires with no problem.
I'm not rock crawling with this thing, I just want to get to some cool off the beaten trail camping spots, and my buddies stock 2017 wrangler had 8.3" of clearance, which handled very well on the trail I'm using as a gauge for the lift. but obviously the jeep has amazing approach, break over and departure angles and ill fix that issue later.
I just want to know what my sweet spot is regarding things like spacers, struts, bigger tires and ground clearance as it relates to me having the clearance to get over obstacles and enough power to get over it without having to take a huge running start and redline my engine. I don't want to have to winch myself through a trail.
should i be worried or is my engine powerful enough to take 29" tires?