faunjoustino

---- 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L H4 AWD Automatic ---- Hey all!! So I'm painfully aware of how little power the EJ25D has and I want to lift the car to have at least 8.5" of ground clearance, 9-9.5" would be awesome however I'm worried about losing torque and power with bigger tires. I've mostly seen good lifts regarding the H6 or other slightly more powerful engines and they've gone up to 29"or 32" tires with no problem. I'm not rock crawling with this thing, I just want to get to some cool off the beaten trail camping spots, and my buddies stock 2017 wrangler had 8.3" of clearance, which handled very well on the trail I'm using as a gauge for the lift. but obviously the jeep has amazing approach, break over and departure angles and ill fix that issue later. I just want to know what my sweet spot is regarding things like spacers, struts, bigger tires and ground clearance as it relates to me having the clearance to get over obstacles and enough power to get over it without having to take a huge running start and redline my engine. I don't want to have to winch myself through a trail. should i be worried or is my engine powerful enough to take 29" tires?

Yea I get how it looks, from what I was told my dad didn't have the money to fix anything beside the HG's and the job was done as a courtesy and was strictly the HG's no timing belt or water pump. but again all the things I've been told about the car and what was or wasn't done, is all just hear say and I cant trust any of it to a certain degree so I'm just drawing my own conclusions based on what I know and what the car does, we will have to see what happens once I install the new radiator and luckily I only ran Super blue through it for about 2 days and I've driven less than 3 miles since she's been turned on. I haven't taken her on a longer drive or even over 30mph so we will have to see what happens with further trial and error. once I install the new radiator I will drive it across town and see what happens.

I understand your skepticism but the HG's wered changed and sometime after the repair the car was in an accident and hit a tree, and since the radiator is curved like a banana at the bottom I would think that had something to do with it.

Well I don't have the thousands of dollars for a HG or the swap at the moment. And there is a difference between being stupid and being ignorant. this is why I ask a bunch of questions so I can learn and not be a dumb a s s, but from what all I've been told and what I've tested in the past couple days I cannot say it has head gaskets issues with 100% confidence. With all the info I've provided to you guys and all the info you guys have given back you always said its "most likely" a HG, but "most likely" doesn't mean definitely and until I eliminate the other obvious reasons it would over heat I cant say it for sure quit yet. Until the already broken radiator hose broke off even more it maintained temp and drove fine, I don't think its the head gasket at this point but I still have more testing to do before I know for sure. at this point a piece if the cooling system is broken so we will just have to see what happens in another week. once I know its NOT the cooling system failing and if it overheats after this then I think its obvious and I will be getting a full diagnostic after I swap the radiator regardless if it overheats or not. I know for a fact the HG's were changed 3 years ago and it seems that I didn't overheat it to the point where I blew them.

---- 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L H4 AWD Automatic ---- Hey all!! This is a continuation of my dads car that sat for 2 years outside in Montana. Just looking for pointers as I things here and there. Just this past weekend I finally started the car! Good news is that it runs pretty darn good considering what its been through. What I've done so far: - Changed the valve cover gaskets, spark plug gaskets, grommets for the bolts. - Spark plugs - Oil and Oil filter - Thermostat, Radiator cap and coolant. - Drained old fuel and added new fuel So after 2 years she started up and ran fine, fans kicked on and I burped the system for bit then capped it off and drove it around the block a few times. Everything feels pretty good, lots of power (for 160Hp that is), breaks work but need to be changed, power steering squeaks a tad when fully locked out to either side. Couple issues. 1. When shifting from Park into reverse, there is a bit of a lunge or soft clunk and you can definitely feel the car shake a bit. When driving through the gears its good but could be a little smoother. So I'm not sure what is all to be concerned with there. 2. I was test driving and I noticed the temp gauge started to move a tad bit past the middle so I drove back a 1/4 mile and parked it and saw a trail of me dripping coolant all around the apartment complex. Popped the hood and found the upper radiator hose spraying coolant out the side. I grabbed the hose and it came right off and there was a piece of the upper radiator port broken off inside the hose and I squeezed the hose and the plastic part of the port stuck in there snapped so it was very brittle and from my memory of when it was overheating 2 years ago in Montana, that hose was spewing coolant. so time for a new radiator. Any precautions I should take when swapping the radiator out seeing as how there was broken pieces in the hose and I'm worried some may have gotten in the engine? however It seemed fine while driving back other than I noticed the temp gauge rising. and should I go OEM with the new radiator? they are currently like $300

Ok so.... Keep in mind this car just got done sitting for two years and I just turned it on 2 days ago. Just changed the valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, oil and oil filter, thermostat and coolant. I just filled my system to the brim with Super-Blue..... car has been running fine and just yesterday my upper radiator hose kind of sprayed itself loose. I was driving starting getting slightly over middle on the temp gauge, parked it and checked the hose came right off and the plastic port on the radiator was broken off and stuck inside the hose. Its hard to tell if the plastic was already broken or not but considering that 2 years ago I remember seeing coolant coming out of that hose and I'm only just now remembering this and the car sat and parts are brittle I'm hoping that It was already like that because even though what you said about it eating plastic I don't think it would eat it in barely 2 days.. or would it? I'm not sure I'm replacing the radiator anyways because looking at it now it literally curved from being hit apparently. but what coolant should I be using? can you provide me a link to the right stuff? and is there anything i should do other than drain the blue out and replace it?

So when i drove this car 2 years ago it was overheating and my dad had a bottle of coolant in the car because it kept loosing coolant, I think it was evaporating in the overflow tank from getting too hot, but not 100% sure. So I have no clue how much is was overheated other than when I drove it , and what do you consider overheating? Anything past the middle of the gauge? temp 3/4 to H? what exactly is excessive? Because when I drove it to its 2 year temporary grave site, the gauge was going from middle to about 3/4 to H and I would pull over let it "cool down" for about 15 mins throw some of the coolant from the overflow back into the radiator and or water, after each stop it cooled down a bit and was stable for about 5 mins and If my memory serves me correctly I think the temp gauge ended up moving towards H pretty even with me stepping on the throttle, as in Id give it some gas and it would climb to about 3/4 to H and I would slow down and it would drop a bit. Its hard to say how long I actually drove it like that but id say all together NOT including pulling over and waiting about 15-25 mins of slow careful driving and pulling over when it got about to 3/4 to H. what do you think?

Total came out to $4,319.37 does this seem high enough to just swap the engine out?

Haha doesn't sounds harsh I get it and I always appreciate you guys, and the advice you provide! Im not explaining everything they have explained to me about the car, this was a rough quote they gave without even looking at the car, so the quote is worst case scenario. I havent paid anything yet and havent had any work done, I used the words "wiring or mechanical hiccups” not them so im not sure what all is involved with it but I imagine "wiring" is probably 1 of the things that could take extra time and being that the other half of the car is old and was sitting for 2 years I assume there would be some issues that spring up that should be addressed. Aside from that im sure you can agree that doing my due diligence to make sure im getting the best service at the best price, is a good idea, which is why im asking questions here as well as getting quotes and asking questions. The more knowledge I seek and questions I ask the more it benefits me and my vehicle. But with all the advice from the community here and the Subaru mechanics im sure ill find the right people at the right price.

--- 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L DOHC 4EAT AWD --- Hey all! In anticipation of a engine swap I was talking with my local shop that is insanely experienced and truly honest, fair and professional their name is Kaiju Motorsports here in Henderson, Near Las Vegas Nevada. Let me know if there any other shops out here so far this seems to be the top notch shop in Vegas. They quoted me about 17-25 hours @110/hr for a swap with a 2.2L or 2.5L, they said it would be that many hours due to all the inevitable issues that pop up with an engine swap like wiring and other mechanical hiccups. Is that a fair quote for guys who 100% know what they are doing? its not just swap and that's it they make sure it fully functional and kinks are worked out before the job is "done" also if I'm buying an engine what else is necessary to purchase? I imagine its not just buy 1 engine and that's it, I'm sure there will be new gaskets or wires or ecu i have no idea.. so what else am I looking for when "buying an engine" so I can price things out ahead of time. also let me know if swapping to an H6 ez30 is a better idea since i want to lift this thing 2 inches and make it a camper and i doubt that the 2.2 will make life very enjoyable loaded up with camping gear, they quoted about 25-35 hours for that.

Hey brother is there anyway you can provide me your contact info? Email or phone through private message? you always have great advice and id love to see if there is any way you could help me out here and there with this project. I understand you have your own shop and all so maybe you can point me in the right direction, i trust your advice and id like a reliable source I can reach out to without making a post on here every time haha.

Roger that guys thank you for the advice as always. Will the 2.2 be strong enough for a 2 inch lift and camping supplies or should I just stick to looking for a 25D also am I looking for SOHC or DOHC? whats the main difference? Any particular websites or places where I should be looking for engines? I found these websites https://www.jdmenginedepotinc.com/product-category/subaru/ and this website https://jdmracingmotors.com/en/subaru/forester-legacy-ej25-engines-ej20x-ej20y-eg33-ez30-motors/1260/subaru-legacy-1996-1999-twin-cam-ej25d-engine/

--- 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L H4 DOHC 4EAT AWD --- Hey All!! I've looked through forums and other threads but cant find what I need. I might have to do an engine swap here soon depending on whether or not this engine is worth fixing. I really want to lift this thing about 1.5-2 inches and go 1 size up in tire size from 205/70/R15 to ---> 215/75/R15 My Goal is for it to be a good camping vehicle that can try to keep up with my buddies jeep. If I'm going to do an engine swap id like to have enough power to accomplish this goal without it being underpowered after the lift plus camping gear and full size spare etc... I want an easy swap, something that's pretty plug and play hopefully around 10-15 hours of labor. Im pricing out having a shop just do it for me but I am pretty mechanically inclined and I'm quite sure I could swap an engine myself with the proper tools and meticulous labeling and organizing of all the wires hoses and other stuff. For someone who has never even come close to swapping an engine, however I have changed spark plugs, distributor and a thermostat, I Imagine it would be easier to swap an engine with no experience than say replacing head gaskets with no experience, but again I have no clue, I just feel like it would be a bit less advanced to swap a intact engine and just hook up some hoses wires and bolts etc.. Let me know if I should just stop this line of reasoning and leave it to the pros or not haha. But other than that what engine would be the best option for what I want to do. Hopefully plug and play enough that it doesn't cost too many shop hours or plug and play enough for me to do it if yall think that's a good idea.

thanks a ton and yes GD's advice is always awesome. I have unfortunately already the oil and coolant and will be turning the key tomorrow. so we will have to see how that goes from here. lets cross our fingers

I'm doing all this 1. because this was my dads car before he passed away and I don't have very many of his things and this is a big thing. 2. its going to be my daily driver once its up and running. 3. Im quite sure when we put water in the radiator we diluted it far too much to trust running it Ive already drained the gas and changed the oil and filter. now im doing new OEM coolant and new thermostat and radiator cap and finally spark plugs and valve covers and because they are leaking or at least I think they are and again I need this car to work and i want to elminate these smaller potential issues and get to the bottom of the problem and fix it.

I really hope not, ive checked as much as i can and the gaskets seem to be in tact. and what if im remembering incorrectly and it was the coolant just being so hot its boiling, I know that's probably not much better. but we will just have to see this weekend

---- 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5L H4 AWD Automatic ---- Hey all!! This is a car that sat for 2 years outside in Montana and its my camper project.To be clear I haven't started this car in 2 years. I'm taking every preventative measure that I know of before I start this thing so I don't cause any extra damage. I was the last person to drive it 2 years ago and it was overheating a bit (or the gauge was saying it was), bubbles coming up through the overflow tank, we only drove it about 2-3 miles pulling off every few hundred feet to let it cool down and pour water in the radiator since its all we had. without having turned it on yet the head gaskets appear to be in tact and they were changed to MLS about 3 years ago, so I certainly hope I haven't blown anything from that small drive. Nothing crazy happened that I could tell, no loss of power or anything abnormal while I was driving it all seemed normal other than bubbles coming up through the overflow reservoir.Anyway my goal is to not damage anything else when I turn it on. When I changed the oil it was not milky and showed no signs of coolant mixing with the oil, it looked like normal oil and I don't quite know if I can say that that means I didn't blow a gasket so if anyone could tell me what else I should be worried about and from a visual inspection, the Valve/Rocker cover gaskets seemed to be dripping oil or maybe it dripped from somewhere else I'm not sure but again I'm taking every precaution I can other than super expensive overly involved repairs like a water pump, timing belt and head gaskets.other than advice for my general goal of getting this thing running without extra issues or at least turn it on and have it running well enough that I can identify bigger issues that require me taking it into the pros, I need help with the replacement of these valve/rocker cover gaskets.I am changing these valve/rocker cover gaskets, grommets and bushings out along with the spark plugs since ill be down there anyway.The owner service manual says I should put "fluid packing sealant" on the corners of the semi circular part of the covers and a couple other places. I have no clue what an appropriate amount of sealant is, and I'm not confident enough that the diagram from the service manual shows all of the right spots.So if someone could help me out and maybe provide a thread, video or personal advice on how to do this properly.Other precautions I'm taking before turning the key for the first time in 2 years (please help me add to the list or let me know what steps to do something properly:1. Oil change and oil filter change2. Drain old fuel from gas tank3. Drain old coolant and add new, as well as bleed system of air with radiator funnel kit.4. OEM thermostat replacement5. Replace spark plugs.6. Fogging oil sprayed in cylinders while spark plugs are out.Tell me what I'm missing and feel free to ask me to clarify anything I left out

So what am I "locking" with this solenoid if its not the diff? im a little confused. haha sorry yall

Gotcha, thanks again! how does this work compared to a "normal" diff locker? what are the key differences?

Thank you for the advice! Will doing this Duty-C mod cause any "ratcheting, popping or binding" around corners and stuff during regular road driving when its not turned on?

Thanks for the advice! I want to lift her only 1"-1.5" with 215/75/R15's all terrains as the smallest upgrade I could find for tires, I don't want to lose too much power by lifting it more than that and putting bigger tires that are require more torque to turn what are the downsides of the Duty-C lockup? and will I even need it? At the end of the day I just want to drive to some off the beaten path camping spots, I don't want to go rock crawling or aggressive off-roading. I want to baby her while being capable of going on tougher trails. I will drive cautiously and will have proper recovery gear just in case, but I want this thing to be a tank for medium off-roading obstacles.

Hell yea i didnt know i already had a diff i can use, thats awesome! any threads or videos on how to hook that switch up?

Hey all! ---1999 Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5--- Just curious about getting a center or rear differential that I can lock and unlock.I know its a good move to improve off-road capabilities however I am concerned about additional damage I might be doing to the vehicle.Should I be worried about potentially breaking or wearing down parts faster due to the diff lock? If so which parts should I keep an eye on, keep a back up of, or upgrade ahead of time? to avoid being towed home after breaking something I could have upograded or prepared better for.

Haha wow thanks again for the plethora of info and advice! I 100% plan on being an expert at anything that could go wrong with my vehicle over time, as well as having backups for most practical situations and your advice will go a long way to steer me in the right direction. Being that this car was my fathers before he passed away it has extreme sentimental value and its my daily driver so I don't plan on being TOO stupid when off-roading, however some stupidity will inevitably cross my path by my own doing or someone else and I plan to be prepared to get out safely with my vehicle in one piece. I cant wait to get this thing out where she belongs.... Parked by a river I just fished my dinner out of. thank again GD!! See you on the trail!!

WOW thank you so much for all the advice. What kind of wiring kit would you recommend? im not sure what kind of "wiring kit" would be appropriate i haven't the slightest clue what wiring kit or wires to get. aside from that you said ball joints, tie rod ends, and control arms aren't my biggest concern, you mentioned just the front axle, is that really all i would need a back up of? what about a rear axle? is there anything else that would be worth packing as a backup? I know preventative maintenance is the most important thing i can do to avoid changing a U-joint at night time, but what else is practical to have as a backup for a 1999 Legacy outback? Also what parts should i consider upgrading ahead of time?